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Bench Racing

I will say that people focus more on rod ratio than they need too for Most applcations. I use to buy into the long rod theory, I've spent enough time at the seat of a dyno to have changed my opinion on that a bit. If I was building a endurance engine or something it would matter a bit more. It all looks good on paper though. Compare the 511 low deck to a big block chevy, and there not all that bad after all.
 
My post was not negative but to prove a rational point, we've all been doing this for awhile and it's interesting to see what we're gaining or losing by running a certain engine combination. There is no replacement for displacement other than an engine of slightly less displacement making slightly less torque at a higher RPM; all being equal. If torque wins races, diesels would be king, but we know that isn't the case as HP (acceleration) is only a figure based from the amount of torque applied over a period of time (which torque needs to be positioned to peak during the engines desired performance range).

You make 50-75 more ft/lbs at an identical operating range from increased displacement alone, that's why you ran 6/10's faster than your 446 (if everything was equal). Unless you could have spun your 446 to 7,000 it would have not matched your 511. My bench racing engines are purely static/representative and had nothing to do with anyone's combo, we could easily say both engines could run at a theoretically higher RPM, the limit and values were just for this bench racing purpose. In reality, there are far more factors involved and I only chose a smaller displacement (in my build) due to the increased compression height, decreased piston speed due to shorter stroke (theoretically allowing the engine to spin to higher RPM's), and improved rod-ratio. That's what I'm trying to get at, don't take it personal and only at face value. Every combo is unique, and there are multitudes of ways to obtain the desired end result.

Trust me spinning my 440 to 7 grand would not produce the power of the 511
 
I will say that people focus more on rod ratio than they need too for Most applcations. I use to buy into the long rod theory, I've spent enough time at the seat of a dyno to have changed my opinion on that a bit. If I was building a endurance engine or something it would matter a bit more. It all looks good on paper though. Compare the 511 low deck to a big block chevy, and there not all that bad after all.

Yeah I noticed that myself, Mopar has some of the best ratios in factory configuration.
 
And the only bb mopars to turn 8000+ rpm are super stock hemi's. if you build a bb mopar to turn that kind of rpm for anything other than a specific class of racing your an idiot.
 
Trust me spinning my 440 to 7 grand would not produce the power of the 511

Hey Mike, why exactly do you not believe it would?

In my case, rod-ratio does have a significant role. Don't want to reveal anything yet, but it should be running a bit farther than a quarter'. So it falls into that category, for most, yes it's over-building worrying about that detail.
 
Hey Mike, why exactly do you not believe it would?

In my case, rod-ratio does have a significant role. Don't want to reveal anything yet, but it should be running a bit farther than a quarter'. So it falls into that category, for most, yes it's over-building worrying about that detail.

Because my name isn't Mike, and I have a bit more experience than you think. But enough about that. If it was all about rod ratio I would see 327 chevys on street outlaws ;)
 
More than likely! What do you think about the new TF 270's?

From what I know I think they are a bargain at that price. are they the end all in bb mopar heads, certainly not. They're a good budget head for 80% of guys like us with street/strip cars.
 
This my take. Use the biggest bore you can. Use the longest stroke that will fit. Use a light piston that has reasonable compression height. Use what ever rod length that now fits. Pistons and cranks all cost the same regardless of size. Look at heads up stuff with no cubic inch limit. Do they run small cubic inch? Nope they're all big. Remember, all these calculators don't account for how big cubic inch torque pulls from the converter flash up to the shift point. Now if you're limited in engine size, that's a different issue. Best average torque numbers such as Engine Masters favor long stroke small bore. Find a limited cubic inch class motor built that way, you wont. It'll be the biggest bore you can use.
Doug
 
Hey sweet 5ltr, You seem to know the nubers I just do little research and put em together,last engine was a 406 sbc with stock race ready AFR 210 heads w/11-1 comp,super victor 750 demon,1 7/8 headers 241/247 street roller@050 585 lift 3400 convrtr,3.55 gear pump gas 3250lbs drove it 115 miles to e-towm and it went 10.82@ 123.7 with 235/60 MT street radials with a 1.52 60ft left at idle,So basicly building same type engine but a 470 stroker with fully ported 906s,1000 cfm super light rotating assembly,10.7 comp PLEASE Pick me A CAM think of a XE295HL hyd or a nice FLAT Tappet want a more modern 557 type mopar cam like to use a split duration cam ,Or should I flow the heads to make sure maybe a single profile will work,the AFR heads wreralmost exactly 75% intake to exhaust ratio. Looking for same 600hp as the chevy. Give me your thoughts on the solid cam,LIKE LUNATI a lot...........Gene
 
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