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Best water pump?

Anyone with a big block Mopar knows they can run hot

BOB RENTON
I'm not disagreeing with you Bob, but I've never known of anyone having cooling issues with a big block Mopar. Maybe I didn't know some were using Flowkooler water pumps? I have known of many folks who have had trouble with cooling systems on 400c.i. small block Chevys' due to the larger bore in a small block casting. Anyway, the Flowkooler looks like a great product.
 
I'm not disagreeing with you Bob, but I've never known of anyone having cooling issues with a big block Mopar. Maybe I didn't know some were using Flowkooler water pumps? I have known of many folks who have had trouble with cooling systems on 400c.i. small block Chevys' due to the larger bore in a small block casting. Anyway, the Flowkooler looks like a great product.
As it's been said many times: "Don't knock it until you try it"....SB Chevy 400 engines used Siamesed center bores cylinders, aggravating uniform cylinder cooling. Remember....high gallons/minute and velocity flow rate is the secret to efficient heat transfer and cooling......
BOB RENTON
 
Just to mention for those wondering about Flowkooler water pumps and why some of us here use them, in my situation I'm using one in a 400 block 512 cu in stroker with 10 to one compression.
I might also say for years in my 63 I had cooling issues with 500 cu in stroker at 13.5 to one and found after that the lower radiator hose was being sucked closed by the electric water pump.
A new hose was installed and no more overheating!
Hope this info helps for those out there.
So after having problems in the past, I wanted to avoid any on the Roadrunner build. ruffcut
 
Just to mention for those wondering about Flowkooler water pumps and why some of us here use them, in my situation I'm using one in a 400 block 512 cu in stroker with 10 to one compression.
I might also say for years in my 63 I had cooling issues with 500 cu in stroker at 13.5 to one and found after that the lower radiator hose was being sucked closed by the electric water pump.
A new hose was installed and no more overheating!
Hope this info helps for those out there.
So after having problems in the past, I wanted to avoid any on the Roadrunner build. ruffcut
Yes there should be a spring in the lower hose for that exact reason.
 
Flowkooler, that is a unique impeller design for sure. They claim it helps cool at idle and low speeds, exactly where my issues are.
That's where the issues usually are....idle and/or low speeds. Also the T-stat is supposed to help slow down the flow if everything is working right. Sometimes too fast flow and the coolant goes through that radiator too fast and doesn't have a chance to cool down so a restrictor plate can and sometimes works better. Also, a large enough radiator also helps. Used to be lots thought a 4 row radiator was better but it's not.....better off with a radiator that's just as thick as a 4 row but only has 2 rows.
 
That's where the issues usually are....idle and/or low speeds. Also the T-stat is supposed to help slow down the flow if everything is working right. Sometimes too fast flow and the coolant goes through that radiator too fast and doesn't have a chance to cool down so a restrictor plate can and sometimes works better. Also, a large enough radiator also helps. Used to be lots thought a 4 row radiator was better but it's not.....better off with a radiator that's just as thick as a 4 row but only has 2 rows.
I agree with your comment on 4 row and even 3 row, they make the tubes so small and then i feel with all those tubes it impedes air flow through the core and they clog quicker.
 
I agree with your comment on 4 row and even 3 row, they make the tubes so small and then i feel with all those tubes it impedes air flow through the core and they clog quicker.
It's not so much that but surface cooling per tube. 'Tiny' tubes don't do as well as larger tubes do....there's more 'wall' on a larger tube to benefit from the air flowing past them. I actually learned from this on a single row radiator in a Dodge Dakota pickup and then researched it.
 
That's where the issues usually are....idle and/or low speeds. Also the T-stat is supposed to help slow down the flow if everything is working right. Sometimes too fast flow and the coolant goes through that radiator too fast and doesn't have a chance to cool down so a restrictor plate can and sometimes works better. Also, a large enough radiator also helps. Used to be lots thought a 4 row radiator was better but it's not.....better off with a radiator that's just as thick as a 4 row but only has 2 rows.
Sorry.....incorrect PREMISE.....FAST flow can exchange more heat per unit of time (BTUs/hr/gallon). While you state the coolant should move slow thru the radiator to give up the heat, what about the coolant that remains in the bock and heads gaining heat. Since there is only one circulation pump, (a fixed impeller centrifugal design), rotating at variable RPM's, it's volume and velocity and the pumped coolant, the worst case is low speed. The basic idea is to maintain the highest temperature difference between the coolant in the radiator and the air temperature passing through the radiator. This can be done by circulating the coolant as fast as possible (within physical and practical limitations). The thermodynamic principle is:
Q (heat or BTU/hr) = M (Mass flow converted to gallons/minute) X Cp (Specific Heat or the coolant's ability to absorb and release heat / unit of time) X delta T (Temperature or the temperature difference between the heat source and coolant OR between the temperature of coolant and the radiator's air entering temperature). The GREATER the temperature difference, the more HEAT or BTU/hr are exchanged. Conversly, the minimum temperature will result in lower heat transfer. Thermodynamics is an exact science.....how can I enlighten you more?......
BOB RENTON
 
Sorry.....incorrect PREMISE.....FAST flow can exchange more heat per unit of time (BTUs/hr/gallon). While you state the coolant should move slow thru the radiator to give up the heat, what about the coolant that remains in the bock and heads gaining heat. Since there is only one circulation pump, (a fixed impeller centrifugal design), rotating at variable RPM's, it's volume and velocity and the pumped coolant, the worst case is low speed. The basic idea is to maintain the highest temperature difference between the coolant in the radiator and the air temperature passing through the radiator. This can be done by circulating the coolant as fast as possible (within physical and practical limitations). The thermodynamic principle is:
Q (heat or BTU/hr) = M (Mass flow converted to gallons/minute) X Cp (Specific Heat or the coolant's ability to absorb and release heat / unit of time) X delta T (Temperature or the temperature difference between the heat source and coolant OR between the temperature of coolant and the radiator's air entering temperature). The GREATER the temperature difference, the more HEAT or BTU/hr are exchanged. Conversly, the minimum temperature will result in lower heat transfer. Thermodynamics is an exact science.....how can I enlighten you more?......
BOB RENTON
Too slow moving....? Yes, that's not good either but too fast isn't either....been there done that. Lots of variables in a 'factory' cooling system and mainly in the block and heads of this 50+ year old stuff. What usually happens is lots of experimentation in the system that someone has.
 
I took the Bee out for a ride this afternoon. I installed the Flowkooler water pump last week and wanted to see how it did in the heat. Warm, humid day here in Bethany Beach. 90 degrees and 80+% humidity. Lots of beach traffic.

Temp gauge ran at what is about 190-200 without AC. Turned the AC on and the gauge climbed up to what I would say is about 215 or so. Still not horrible.

When I got home, i immediately got my heat gun out and the top of the radiator was 195. Thermostat housing was 190. Side of the radiator was 200.

In your experience, would you say the 53 year old gauge is likely off or possibly the sending unit? I don't mind changing the sending unit. The gauges though…I may look at Dakota replacements at some point.

Heading to Carlisle in a couple of weeks and the ride back in Sunday beach traffic is going to suck, but if I’m only running 195-200 though the gauge reads warmer, I’m a happy camper.

Thanks!!
Bob
 
Sorry.....incorrect PREMISE.....FAST flow can exchange more heat per unit of time (BTUs/hr/gallon). While you state the coolant should move slow thru the radiator to give up the heat, what about the coolant that remains in the bock and heads gaining heat. Since there is only one circulation pump, (a fixed impeller centrifugal design), rotating at variable RPM's, it's volume and velocity and the pumped coolant, the worst case is low speed. The basic idea is to maintain the highest temperature difference between the coolant in the radiator and the air temperature passing through the radiator. This can be done by circulating the coolant as fast as possible (within physical and practical limitations). The thermodynamic principle is:
Q (heat or BTU/hr) = M (Mass flow converted to gallons/minute) X Cp (Specific Heat or the coolant's ability to absorb and release heat / unit of time) X delta T (Temperature or the temperature difference between the heat source and coolant OR between the temperature of coolant and the radiator's air entering temperature). The GREATER the temperature difference, the more HEAT or BTU/hr are exchanged. Conversly, the minimum temperature will result in lower heat transfer. Thermodynamics is an exact science.....how can I enlighten you more?......
BOB RENTON
Good stuff Bob! I have a question for you as seem to be very knowledgeable regarding thermodynamics. Wouldn't a big block Mopar engine run a bit cooler if only the cast iron heads, and the cast iron water pump housing were replaced with aluminum components being aluminum dissipates heat at a faster rate?
Thanks!!!
 
So I’m having pump issues also on my 512 stroker. I temp gun tested across the system and it seems I’m not getting flow and I’m overheating at idle. I pulled pump off it seems ok but looks very stock. I want to go the flowkooler route but not sure if I can put it into my housing which I think could be part the problem as it has a small outlet hole and I’m not sure how the clearance will Mary up with the housing and flowkooler. I see milidon make housing and pump but the suction is on the opposite side??

Any suggestions?

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if by small outlet hole you mean that hole in your first picture below the thermostat, that’s the bypass hole on a big block. It does the job the bypass hose does on other engines that have them. That hole would have minimal effect on coolant flow when the thermostat is open
 
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The flowkooler pump should work as well in your housing as anyone else's. Unless there was some freak machining error which I highly doubt.
 
Another vote for Flowkooler.
 
I have no experience with the FlowKooler, I used a stock eight finned pump. Moves lots of coolant, never had an overheating problem on my 440.

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Sad......the expression "moves lots of coolant" means nothing.....just like the expression, car runs good.......the world used facts and figures....opinions are not quantitative.......gallons/minute or ft/sec or degrees F .......how high is up???.......if you don't know, just say so.......
BOB RENTON
 
Sad......the expression "moves lots of coolant" means nothing.....just like the expression, car runs good.......the world used facts and figures....opinions are not quantitative.......gallons/minute or ft/sec or degrees F .......how high is up???.......if you don't know, just say so.......
BOB RENTON

Been though this before Bob. This thread you're on now is from 2023.

Post in thread 'Water pump question' Water pump question
 
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