blower motor
- Thread starter jeff broy
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moparcrazy
Well-Known Member
WHAT ??? !!! NO PICS ??, NOT COOL MAN, NOT COOL Lol !!
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Plenty of heads to choose from and can be very streetable!!
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What will it be used for ?
What fuel will be used ?
Wedge engines are a bit touchy with boost ?
How good of a Blower, who's & how much boost ?
the bottom end is a big deal too...
We really need a bit more info,
but you can "make a ton of different stuff work"
really it depends on it's intended outcome or expectation you have...
to begin with
A good set of "Open Chamber" 906's cleaned up, good perf. valve job,
proper valve-springs & camshaft, pushrods for a Blower combo,
than solid copper head gaskets {thickness varies} & o-ring the block
& all forged pieces in the bottom end, good hardware, studs pref.
ballpark 8:1 compression {street} & an appro. & adequate fuel supply,
a burst plate/pop-off valve in the front of the manifold min. to save it
{the old ones had springs on them, it'd work on the street}
a good hot spark/good ignition to fire it off,
that would be an entry level suggestion on pump gas/street combo...
Farther you go away from that the more stuff needs to be changed,
if you want it to live...
What fuel will be used ?
Wedge engines are a bit touchy with boost ?
How good of a Blower, who's & how much boost ?
the bottom end is a big deal too...
We really need a bit more info,
but you can "make a ton of different stuff work"
really it depends on it's intended outcome or expectation you have...
to begin with
A good set of "Open Chamber" 906's cleaned up, good perf. valve job,
proper valve-springs & camshaft, pushrods for a Blower combo,
than solid copper head gaskets {thickness varies} & o-ring the block
& all forged pieces in the bottom end, good hardware, studs pref.
ballpark 8:1 compression {street} & an appro. & adequate fuel supply,
a burst plate/pop-off valve in the front of the manifold min. to save it
{the old ones had springs on them, it'd work on the street}
a good hot spark/good ignition to fire it off,
that would be an entry level suggestion on pump gas/street combo...
Farther you go away from that the more stuff needs to be changed,
if you want it to live...
jeff broy
Active Member
I'm planning to put in my Henry J gasser. cert. to 8.50 would like to see it happen. Have a good bottom end with 4.15 crank, h-beam rods, and dish pistons. Haven't bought cam yet was thinking I'd get a good set of heads done first so can match springs.
HEMI-ITIS
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Well you asked about heads???? There is a nice choice of HEMI heads available
MOPOWER871
Well-Known Member
Congrats on the 671, it will work on your 440 build. normally you would want a 871 on a motor around 450-500 cubes.reason is because you have to spin a 671 faster then you would a 871 to produce the same amount of air volume that this size motor requires.The faster the blower spins the more heat is generated also ware and tear on the blower itself. rotors, seals bearings ...
Also if you are going to be putting your foot into it so to speak it is wise to have your crankshaft snout doubled keyed along with your damper .some builders don't use a damper because the large blower belt helps absorb the harmonic vibrations that are being produced during engine operation. personally have run a fluid damper and ATI in the past .
as mentioned about the heavy foot thing. blower pulley belt pitch size , if your cruisin 1/2" clog belt will do , 8mm drive pulleys/belt are recommended if you are putting it to it so to speak..
when you have a chance flip you blower over and inspect the walls of the front blower drive bearing end plate ,they should show no signs of leaking, (black,dark oil stains running downward).if so your seals are shot and would recommend sending the blower out for service. the gear oil from the drive case would have been getting past the seals and into the intake track contaminating the air /fuel charge and most definitely cause detonation in the motor . this happens from blower pressure getting into the gear case and putting pressure on the back side of the lip seals witch prematurely wears them out causing leaking .(that's what the little button on the front of the case is for , to relieve blower gear case pressure after every use.
As far as your motor. build it like your going to use it .blower motor will rev very quickly, light strong valve train is a must you don't need a .700 lift giant cam remember the blower is force feeding. Forged blower pistons, crank, rods are in order if your going to romp on it . and regardless of anything else a good oiling system from milodon .I recommend and use
#21001
STOCK COVER SINGLE LINE SYSTEM
A simplified system that is great where space is tight. Using a stock oil pump cover allows this system to be more compact with no need for a separate oil filter adapter. Will supply adequate oil supply up to 7000 RPM when used with Melling M63-HV high volume pump. Use with Milodon #30931 low profile or #31015 deep sump style oil pans. Works for both Wedge and Hemi engines and all motor mounts.
you've taken the first step,to asking questions.I recommend downloading this BDS catalog, it has the answers to just about every question you would want to ask and the proper guide to select the right parts for your up coming build.
http://www.blowerdriveservice.com/downloads/BDS-Catalog-2010.pdf.
Sorry for the ramble, but there is a lot to know when building one of these motors . you want to get it right the first time so (1) you don't waste your money,(2) you don't waste your motor .(3) you don't waste your time. the order of importance vary on the individual .Good Luck on your quest for Mopar Nirvana . your gonna love the blower ;-)
Also if you are going to be putting your foot into it so to speak it is wise to have your crankshaft snout doubled keyed along with your damper .some builders don't use a damper because the large blower belt helps absorb the harmonic vibrations that are being produced during engine operation. personally have run a fluid damper and ATI in the past .
as mentioned about the heavy foot thing. blower pulley belt pitch size , if your cruisin 1/2" clog belt will do , 8mm drive pulleys/belt are recommended if you are putting it to it so to speak..
when you have a chance flip you blower over and inspect the walls of the front blower drive bearing end plate ,they should show no signs of leaking, (black,dark oil stains running downward).if so your seals are shot and would recommend sending the blower out for service. the gear oil from the drive case would have been getting past the seals and into the intake track contaminating the air /fuel charge and most definitely cause detonation in the motor . this happens from blower pressure getting into the gear case and putting pressure on the back side of the lip seals witch prematurely wears them out causing leaking .(that's what the little button on the front of the case is for , to relieve blower gear case pressure after every use.
As far as your motor. build it like your going to use it .blower motor will rev very quickly, light strong valve train is a must you don't need a .700 lift giant cam remember the blower is force feeding. Forged blower pistons, crank, rods are in order if your going to romp on it . and regardless of anything else a good oiling system from milodon .I recommend and use
#21001
STOCK COVER SINGLE LINE SYSTEM
A simplified system that is great where space is tight. Using a stock oil pump cover allows this system to be more compact with no need for a separate oil filter adapter. Will supply adequate oil supply up to 7000 RPM when used with Melling M63-HV high volume pump. Use with Milodon #30931 low profile or #31015 deep sump style oil pans. Works for both Wedge and Hemi engines and all motor mounts.
you've taken the first step,to asking questions.I recommend downloading this BDS catalog, it has the answers to just about every question you would want to ask and the proper guide to select the right parts for your up coming build.
http://www.blowerdriveservice.com/downloads/BDS-Catalog-2010.pdf.
Sorry for the ramble, but there is a lot to know when building one of these motors . you want to get it right the first time so (1) you don't waste your money,(2) you don't waste your motor .(3) you don't waste your time. the order of importance vary on the individual .Good Luck on your quest for Mopar Nirvana . your gonna love the blower ;-)
Located in Mi Is a 440 blower motor resonable. New blower, runs 5.60 I'm the 1/8 at 2900lbs. Complete carbs to pan. PM me if interested.
Doug
Doug
MOPOWER871
Well-Known Member
Jeff are you talking about adding nos to the blower? if so it can be done but not needed you can make all the power you need with the blower by switching pulleys around to add or decrease boost.
fuel requirements are very important, also a blower motor has a funny way of not letting you know its running lean until you've burned a valve or a piston .thus the forged pistons and good quality valves ,rings so good fuel pressure and fuel volume is very important
if your thinking on just running a nitrous system here again built it for that application.
fuel requirements are very important, also a blower motor has a funny way of not letting you know its running lean until you've burned a valve or a piston .thus the forged pistons and good quality valves ,rings so good fuel pressure and fuel volume is very important
if your thinking on just running a nitrous system here again built it for that application.
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Build your shortblock right,use a decent set of heads.You don't need huge ports with boost! That 671 will be good for you to start and when and if you want to go faster,8 bolts and a fuel line and it comes right off. Then an 8 or 1071 will bolt right on. To make my life easy,I built a little picker to lift the blower off for any reason.
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