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Body Stamping Location on a 1969 Roadrunner

rich418; Your RR was built 45 cars after mine! Same schedule build date 312 (March 12th).
 
(Glhcarl) Does your rivets look like mine? Any similarities?
 
Searching google images of 1969 roadrunner vin plates so I can compare the rivets. I found this pic that appears similar to mine. What do you guys think?
 

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Dude I'm going to walk out to my 69 right now and snap you a few pics that i hope can help.

hang on.
 
here's the trunk lip stamping, it's there man, see I couldn't find mine until we got the paint sanded off but we found it.

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and here I'm trying to show you exactly where to look.

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here's my dash plate, note the rivets, way different from the ones you showed for what ever reason.

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and of course the rad support stamping which faces the radiator tank on my car.

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Northern Dave

Thank you for taking the time to take those pictures and measure the location.

The seller just did a quick check for the trunk drip rail stamp. He said he could not see anything. But it may be there under a few layers of paint.

So I quess for whatever reason that vin plates was removed at some point in the car's life.

I am not too concerned about complete numbers matching. It is a decent driver quality car that is not too expensive.
 
So true, without trying to sound like a dick, those look like aluminum hardware store rivets.

A guy really has to wonder why?

drag race history, dash plate rivets....

I dunno, maybe there's a perfectly good explaination but I'd be looking again for that trunk area stamping.

I did look around the package tray area as one poster noted but no stampings jumped out at me on my car.
 
Northern Dave

Thank you for taking the time to take those pictures and measure the location.

The seller just did a quick check for the trunk drip rail stamp. He said he could not see anything. But it may be there under a few layers of paint.

So I quess for whatever reason that vin plates was removed at some point in the car's life.

I am not too concerned about complete numbers matching. It is a decent driver quality car that is not too expensive.



I hear ya man, but there is some personal ownership value to knowing the title does match the body.

I think folks look in that trunk lid gutter for the numbers but as you can see they are actually up out of the gutter on the inside lip right under the weatherstrip.
 
Rich, If you have the windshield out of the car at some point, you can always buy the correct rivets , just PM me
 
Rich, Do you have any idea why the rear seat upper sill area is black and the doors yellow?

As foir the rivets, mine are the rosette style.

Radiator support VIN stamping:
 

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If you have your heart set on a true road runner Id try a different car. You probably are looking at a clone car with a switched vin from a wrecked car. You cant be sure why the vin was removed unless you find the actual person who did it. But if you just want a cool hot rod that looks like a good start. There isnt really a good reason to remove a vin plate unless there was severe damage or rust in that area. You must be getting a headache over this already lol.
 
Do you find any evidence of the original paint being different then what it is currently? Look top and bottom of the package tray or under the carpet.
Nice car, I like it! Partial to that color as my dad has a butterscotch `71 Challenger vert.
 
(glhcarl) I don't know why the doors are yellow and the rest of the interior is black.


(Welder 47) The rad support number matches the vin. But I guess the whole support could have been taken from another car and welded in place.

I guees I'll will have to go look at the car again to check the trunk. But I am sure the seller won't let me grind that area down to check the stampings.

(Detmatt1) I did not check the package tray. I will take a look at that area.

So I guess my question is if the car is not a real Roadrunner what would be a realistic price to pay? The motor was done 6 years ago less than 10,000 miles (receipts for motor work) The car runs and drives nice. The only apparent work needed is tires and alignment.

If I bought it I would eventually remove the mid body trim and move the antenna back to the proper location. I would then put either mag 500 or factory steel rims on.
 
A few corrections to some othe the previous posts although some may have already been addressed

1. Yes the V.I.N. tag rivet are wrong and always brings the question why?

2. Yes, the 69s unlike the 68-previous model years use the V.I.N. numbers for the hidden numbers.

3. Although rare the hidden numbers may be on the passenger side of the trunk rail. Seen more often on A bodies but it won't hert to look. The numbers are not always where shown previously in this thread with the tape measure as it was up to the hungover body stamper that day as to where they may have ended up, Also the car may have been body damaged early in life and had replacement metal without the factory stamped numbers.

4. The EL5 paint code was not used until VERY late in the model year. The first Bahama Yellow cars were coded both 99 or 96.

5. Yes, the 312 SCHEDULED production date would be too early for the car to be painted that color BUT remember that is just a SCHEDULED date and the car could have been held up in production for enough time to have actually been built and painted in April which could explain the B.Y. paint being correct.

6. With all of thes maybes and the wrong V.I.N. rivets it certainly should be looked at with a careful eye.

7. Simply ask the seller if he can explain the wrong rivets and if they have been there since he has owned the car ask for previous owner contact info.
 
I saw a guy on e-bay a few weeks ago selling roadrunner vin plate and accesories saying build your own. Should be illegal to do this, lord know how many times this has happened to unknowing victims. Good thing you are being diligent and getting the facts before you purchase. best wishes on your purchase. CD
 
Actually Clay Dots, it's against federal law to be swapping VIN plates. He could be looking at some serious problems if hey decide to pursue it.
 
4. The EL5 paint code was not used until VERY late in the model year. The first Bahama Yellow cars were coded both 99 or 96.

5. Yes, the 312 SCHEDULED production date would be too early for the car to be painted that color BUT remember that is just a SCHEDULED date and the car could have been held up in production for enough time to have actually been built and painted in April which could explain the B.Y. paint being correct.

D, I've never seen L5 used as a paint code in '69. I have seen 96E also used as a code.

Product Information Bulletin #9, while undated by context appears to have been released in January, indicates the color would be available in February. I have seen what appears to be a Bahama Yellow car with an SPD of 219.
 
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