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borgeson install -what am i in for?

rad savoy

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63 savoy .440, dougs headers - replacing leaky power steering with borgeson . will I have to pull the header or raise the engine or both for this install, borgeson said no but I think they lied.
 
The advantages are probably true:
Better steering response, smaller size and no leaks!
The drawbacks ?
I've heard of only a few. Poor fitment, header interference, a pronounced H I S S sound coming from the unit while turning.
The poor fitment seems to have been limited to the first series of steering boxes. Header interference has been limited to and probably the result of cars with crash damage or worn motor mounts. The H I S S isn't a widespread problem but I have read of a few instances.
 
Easy job.. Just don't do like I did and bolt the steering box to the K-member until after you get the steering shaft sorted out. No issues on my friends GTX he loves it. Well it was formerly a manual steer 4 speed car. I didn't really want to mess with the originality of the car but hes 70+ years old and the manual steering made him work out.
 
63 savoy .440, dougs headers - replacing leaky power steering with borgeson . will I have to pull the header or raise the engine or both for this install, borgeson said no but I think they lied.

If you think they are lying to you, why would you spend money with them? Try calling back and talking to another tech...
 
I just finished this mod. I honestly think it was super easy. I pulled my entire column, and to measure, cut, and install I had maybe 4 hours in total. I sandblasted and painted my column during this time too. The most difficult part was taking the correct measurement for the column. Borgeson directions are a little off. I measured from the top of the large hole in the firewall to the tip of the coupler (separate part you need to buy) then I added approximately 1.5 inches to my measurement. Cut it down with a saw, then drilled the three tap holes for roll pins and it was done.

I did decide to convert from a Saginaw pump to a federal style from Borgeson, and I’m having some clearance issues with my electric fans but all in it was an easy process. No lifting of the car was required, and I have Doug’s Headers.

FF471BEF-1AB9-41B0-8521-1CE498254F20.jpeg 5CB6B500-C10C-448E-9E99-BD4889D7BFDE.jpeg
 
I just finished this mod. I honestly think it was super easy. I pulled my entire column, and to measure, cut, and install I had maybe 4 hours in total. I sandblasted and painted my column during this time too. The most difficult part was taking the correct measurement for the column. Borgeson directions are a little off. I measured from the top of the large hole in the firewall to the tip of the coupler (separate part you need to buy) then I added approximately 1.5 inches to my measurement. Cut it down with a saw, then drilled the three tap holes for roll pins and it was done.

I did decide to convert from a Saginaw pump to a federal style from Borgeson, and I’m having some clearance issues with my electric fans but all in it was an easy process. No lifting of the car was required, and I have Doug’s Headers.

View attachment 927693 View attachment 927694

Wouldn't it have been easier to use Bergman Autocraft's adapter so you wouldn't have to cut the column and all of that? That's good info on the Doug's headers because I run those too...
 
Wouldn't it have been easier to use Bergman Autocraft's adapter so you wouldn't have to cut the column and all of that? That's good info on the Doug's headers because I run those too...

I didn’t even realize that this was an option until after the install was over. I needed to pull my column anyways because I’m installing an Autometer Dash bezel and needed to sort out some wiring issues before I started. It seems like a lot of work, but it really wasn’t that big of a deal. My factory coupler was shot anyways, had tons of play and was seized up so I had to cut it off to remove it.
 
I started this “swap” on Feb 8th. It has been a f-ing nightmare! I think every problem you could encounter while doing this job, I have encountered.. I can only work on the car on weekends so progress has been very slow. And having continuous problems along the way makes it even slower.

First time I got the new Borgeson box on the K-Frame the input shaft was pointing towards the inner fender. The stock box I took out did NOT do this! Input shaft alignment was much better. The two upper mounting bolts won’t seat. Doesn’t fit flush on the k-frame mounting surface.. I’ve had to remove the box and assess what the hell to do next. So far it’s been a disaster. That’s my experience with it..
 
my motor and column was out was a piece of cake, no fitment issues (68 charger) works very well, nice unit.
 
I started this “swap” on Feb 8th. It has been a f-ing nightmare! I think every problem you could encounter while doing this job, I have encountered.. I can only work on the car on weekends so progress has been very slow. And having continuous problems along the way makes it even slower.

First time I got the new Borgeson box on the K-Frame the input shaft was pointing towards the inner fender. The stock box I took out did NOT do this! Input shaft alignment was much better. The two upper mounting bolts won’t seat. Doesn’t fit flush on the k-frame mounting surface.. I’ve had to remove the box and assess what the hell to do next. So far it’s been a disaster. That’s my experience with it..
Sounds like your k member is the issue, maybe your frame is bent?
 
Sounds like your k member is the issue, maybe your frame is bent?
I'm starting my own thread, to get some input on how to overcome my current blocker on my Borgeson installation, which are two of the mounting bolt holes/bolts. The input shaft pointing towards the inner fender appears to be engineered into the Borgeson box by design. The mounting ear surfaces are at a 4.5 degree slant in relation to the input shaft. Why would they design the casting like that? Leaves me asking WTF??

I am going to contact them and ask them that question. I can't believe this box was actually designed to mount on a classic MOPAR K-Frame... I can see why they make a U-Joint coupler, as you'll never get a remotely straight couple to the steering column using this box, unless your gearbox mounting surface is at a 4.5 slant towards the engine. Mine is parallel to the firewall.. I'll elaborate more in my own thread.

You don't even have a stock K-Frame on your car. At least it doesn't look like a stock K-Frame in the photo.
 
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I'm starting my own thread, to get some input on how to overcome my current blocker on my Borgeson installation, which are two of the mounting bolt holes/bolts. The input shaft pointing towards the inner fender appears to be engineered into the Borgeson box by design. The mounting ear surfaces are at a 4.5 degree slant in relation to the input shaft. Why would they design the casting like that? Leaves me asking WTF??

I am going to contact them and ask them that question. I can't believe this box was actually designed to mount on a classic MOPAR K-Frame... I can see why they make a U-Joint coupler, as you'll never get a remotely straight couple to the steering column using this box, unless your gearbox mounting surface is at a 4.5 slant towards the engine. Mine is parallel to the firewall.. I'll elaborate more in my own thread.

You don't even have a stock K-Frame on your car. At least it doesn't look like a stock K-Frame in the photo.

I’m not sure why you are so mad? I just installed this box and it was a breeze. The QA1 k member that I just installed has identical mounting points as the stock K member. I know this because I had the factory steering box in the car with the QA1 k member with no modifications. Again, you are doing something wrong, OR something is wrong with your k member. Chill out and take a deep breath dude, it’s just a car.
 
That's the only known installation issue I've heard about the Borgeson units: the K members. K members are in such varying degrees of condition through all the remaining cars that it's impossible to know what you'll run in to.

I personally understand the frustration; this is supposed to be a really good modification and it takes some effort and cost to get ready for the install, only to be stymied by a bolt or two...
 
I’m not sure why you are so mad? I just installed this box and it was a breeze. The QA1 k member that I just installed has identical mounting points as the stock K member. I know this because I had the factory steering box in the car with the QA1 k member with no modifications. Again, you are doing something wrong, OR something is wrong with your k member. Chill out and take a deep breath dude, it’s just a car.

I have all the parts and will be tackling this when I reassemble my car. I also have the QA1 K-member but the engine is out of the car. I did install the steering box and ran into a small problem. The ears on the Borgeson box where the bolts go through are thinner than the unit I replaced, and one of the bolts was bottoming out on something internal in the K-member and I couldn't pull the steering box tight. Shorter bolts and all good.
 
In some cases, people get it in their minds that because they spend money, the part MUST fit perfectly and give them no troubles.
This is rarely the case.
Often times you need to make a few trips to an auto parts or hardware store, you may need to egg out a hole, grind an edge, rethread a hole or even use some shims to get things to fit right. When these cars were designed and built, I suspect that the factories spent a LOT of time to engineer the parts to fit together quickly on an assembly line. They had deep pockets to do this. The aftermarket does not. They also cannot account for all of the wear and movement that a 50 year old car has developed over time. What fits a pristine, unwrecked low mileage car may not directly bolt into one that has been wrecked or rusted and repaired.
I go into a project hoping for an easy time but also expecting to run into a few troubles.
Try that.
 
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