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Brake Lights???

paladin06

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Went to a car show today with the road runner. We took 1st place of course. Anyway on the way home I got pulled over and cop said you have no brake lights. Gave me a warning and he loved the car. Anyway, the running lights work and the turn signals work but no brake lights. Where should I start?

thanks
 
I would start with the brake light switch on the pedal. The wire could have came loose or the switch failed. Could be lots of things but you asked where to start.
 
I see the switch. It does not appear to move when I press the brake peddle. Also I see two connectors on the switch but only one wire. :icon_cyclops:
 
There's only two or three things it could be

One is above..........

is the brake switch getting power?

And is the switch outputting power from the cold side when pressed?

you can check it "going into" the turn signal switch. If you have switched power going into the TS switch, and nothing "out back" it's a bad column switch
 
There's only two or three things it could be

One is above..........

is the brake switch getting power?

And is the switch outputting power from the cold side when pressed?

you can check it "going into" the turn signal switch. If you have switched power going into the TS switch, and nothing "out back" it's a bad column switch

yep same with my 68. ....and for the record if the guy "loved your car" ...why did he give you a ticket? It is a mechanical issue not due to a guy speeding, racing, wreckless driving etc. ....and they wonder WHY the get no respect. Yet he will let a 4x4 tailgate you at 70mph and NEVER write HIM a ticket.
 
Thanks. I didn't get a ticket. He just advised that I have it looked at.

- - - Updated - - -

There's only two or three things it could be

One is above..........

is the brake switch getting power?

And is the switch outputting power from the cold side when pressed?

you can check it "going into" the turn signal switch. If you have switched power going into the TS switch, and nothing "out back" it's a bad column switch

Thanks. I check in the morning. I just got rear ended in my new Hellcat so I'm not a happy camper right now.

PS - should there be two wires on the switch at the pedal? I only see one connected.
 
Two wires, pink and white.

Assuming you have the standard-duty switch (most cars do), it looks like this:

SLS147photo%20primary__ra_p.jpg


One wire connects right at the collar at the base of the switch plunger, the other connects on the back of the switch (pointing rearward toward the back of the car). The switch works like a refrigerator door light switch: when you push the brake pedal, the plunger extends by spring-load, completing the circuit and turning on the brake lights. If your switch doesn't do that, replace it (it's not expensive). The heavy-duty switch has both terminals at the back, and looks like this:

SLS66photo%20primary__ra_p.jpg


I like these better because they're easier to adjust, and it also happens to be less expensive.

If your brake light switch is okeh, though, and there's no broken or disconnected wire, the problem is in your turn signal switch. On cars with combination brake/turn lights like most of ours, the brake light power goes through the turn signal switch; that's how the one light/two functions magic is done. If you need a new turn signal switch, shop carefully; most of what's on the market is poorly-made junk from China. See here.

While you're paying attention to your brake lights...remove and clean the lenses in hot soapy water. If the reflectors are at all dull or peeling, stuff wads of masking tape in the bulb holes (or remove the sockets if they're the removable type), clean the reflectors with alcohol, then spray them with readily available "chrome" spray paint, which is practically ideal for the task.

Then put in these bulbs

(the white ones for the back-up lights are these)

To run these properly you will need to swap in this turn signal flasher (2-prong like original, direct swap).

Also note these recommendations are not random -- they are the only legitimate LED retrofit bulbs. There's a mountain of garbage on the market, too, so use _only_ these specific LED bulbs; more info here.
 
This is all really good info. I was surprised to learn that on Mopars at least late 60's the brake lights going through the turn signal switch. Very helpful folks here.
 
Brake-light-power-thru-turn-switch is still found today on vehicles with combination brake/turn lights, though it's now growing less prevalent as vehicle body computers and multiplexed electrical systems take over.
 
Well, once I got some light under the dash I was clear a wire was disconnected. I've no idea how or for how lung it was disconnected, perhaps since the master cylinder was replaced months ago.

Thx all.
 
Great, but lordie, don't you ever check your lights? I used to every time I got in "at night." You can just see the reflection behind you before backing out.
 
I have the standard duty switch slantsixDan shows a picture of in posting #8. How do you adjust those things anywa? My brake lights don't come on until the pedal is almost all the way down. Thank you.
 
I have the standard duty switch slantsixDan shows a picture of in posting #8. How do you adjust those things anywa? My brake lights don't come on until the pedal is almost all the way down. Thank you.
If it is like the top one, the bracket is slotted. loosen the bolt and slide the bracket toward the brake pedal. The bottom one is adjusted by adjusting the lock nuts.
 
When The Brake Pedal Is Pulled All The Way Up (Not Pressed) Should The Plunger Be Pushed Tight To The Housing When Its Against The Pedal?
 
It needs to push the plunger in at least enough to break the circuit to shut off the brake light. You may have a failed switch. Pretty common after all these years.
 
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