can anybody please confirm this a 8 3/4 rear differential and name a part?

[Fran Blacker]

Yoke could have groove from the seal. A fix is a speedy-sleeve.

 

[WP29440SE]

the first one I ever did took me , literally, less than an hour to replace. I just can't see why anyone would pay someone else who doesn't know what they are doing one dime to replace a 10 dollar part

 

[Michael_]

the first one I ever did took me , literally, less than an hour to replace. I just can't see why anyone would pay someone else who doesn't know what they are doing one dime to replace a 10 dollar part

Because they should also do a lot of other work.
Im sure they get it fixed. they just asked me if i could get the part ordered.

 

[davek]

I already have that service manual. I lend it to the shop while the car is there.

And they couldnt find it in the manual?

 

[dadsbee]

FSM doesn't list part numbers..

 

[R/T Boy 67]

The only 8 3/4 casting number that starts with 28814 ends with 89. It is a 489 housing.

 

[moparraceman]

if it comes out the front pig style its 83/4

 

[451Mopar]

Preload on the 489 is done with a crush sleeve. Over tightening it will change the pre load. You are correct to mark the nut.

741/742 preload is set with shims and the nut is torqued to 150 + ft lbs. (I know fms says 240 ft lbs but thats overkill or just incorrect) The shims won't let the backlash change unless you add or remove them. Just tighten the nut.

Pinion bearing pre-load, not backlash, will slightly vary depending on how tight the pinion nut is tightened, even with shims. The pinion nut torque spec is a minimum torque. For replacing the seal, putting the nut back to its original position should result in the pre-load being very close to what it was before removing the nut even if it takes a bit more than the minimum torque value. With the axle assembled there is no way to measure the actual pinion bearing pre-load, and it would be less than the factory spec anyway because the bearings and races are not in brad new condition. Anyhow, just saying what I do to try and re-establish the original pinion pre-load when I replace diff seals.

As mentioned above, if the seal is leaking you may need to sleeve the yoke too. The FSM says 170 (minimum) for the tapered pinion 489, and 240 (minimum) for both large or small step pinions 241 & 242.
For comparison, the Dana 60 is 250-270 ft/lbs torque on the pinion nut.

 

[Michael_]

The only 8 3/4 casting number that starts with 28814 ends with 89. It is a 489 housing.

Thanks!
Just found the original dealer invoice, the car has a Sure grip differential.
Maybe that verifys it 100% even without the full number or pictures?

 

[CHARGERSTEVEN]

Thanks!
Just found the original dealer invoice, the car has a Sure grip differential.
Maybe that verifys it 100% even without the full number or pictures?

This has nothing to do with the pic you showed of trying to get the parts for or the type of carrier you have,it is just the type of diff they installed and all 741,742 and 489 could of been ordered with a sure grip or a open rear end

 

[Michael_]

This has nothing to do with the pic you showed of trying to get the parts for or the type of carrier you have,it is just the type of diff they installed and all 741,742 and 489 could of been ordered with a sure grip or a open rear end

Okay thanks for the info.

 

[CHARGERSTEVEN]

Okay thanks for the info.

Is this for the charger you bought from a member on here

 

[Michael_]

Is this for the charger you bought from a member on here

Yes.

 

[CHARGERSTEVEN]

Yes.

nice car good luck with it

 

[Michael_]

nice car good luck with it

Thanks, so far everything is going very good.
Should be able to drive it pretty soon.

 

[CHARGERSTEVEN]

 

[Thrashingcows]

As mentioned order a new seal with a speedy sleeve, that way if they get the yoke out and it's grooved you already have the right part, and even if it is not grooved from the old seal just toss the speedy sleeve on and install the new seal and your done.

As mentioned the diff fluid can seep out along the inner splines on the yoke and then out under the nut and washer. When they re-install have them fill the void under the nut and washer with RTV silicone and then install and torque the nut....the silicone will help keep the fluid from weeping out in the future.

 

[WP29440SE]

Because they should also do a lot of other work.
Im sure they get it fixed. they just asked me if i could get the part ordered.

I wasn't trying to bust on anyone, it just sounded like you asked the question that folks working on your car couldnt answer ,or couldn't figure out

 

[Fran Blacker]

Speedy-Sleeve is less than $20 US here.

 

[Michael_]

I wasn't trying to bust on anyone, it just sounded like you asked the question that folks working on your car couldnt answer ,or couldn't figure out

No Problem, its just in germany you have to deal with "TÜV" which is an inspection you have to pass to legally drive your car on the road.
Its a lot of rules and paper work / bureaucracy and i do not really want to deal with that crap.
Thats why i let the shop do the work, and while its already there also do a service.

I give you an example for the insanity:
You want led headlights? Than you cant insure your car as a classic anymore.
Because those TÜV people would have to approve it which according to my shop they wont do anymore.
You actually have to get approved nearly every modification you do by them.