• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Can of rusty worms

Still making a few upgrades. Time to replace the old ball & trunion. The flange on the new set up is a bit thicker though and I cannot fit lock washers on. I'm trying some nylocks to see if that will work. The fit is so tight, I had to play with the flange to get it to seat flatly.

IMG_5152.JPG IMG_5151.JPG IMG_5150.JPG
 
Once the new heads were in place the headers fit nicely, but the clearance to the passenger side torsion bar was too tight. I could barely squeeze a .005 feeler in there. So I had to dimple it a bit. I used a SS 1.25" round bar from the shop and worked fine without damaging the ceramic coating.

IMG_5170.JPG IMG_5169.JPG IMG_5168.JPG IMG_5167.JPG IMG_5166.JPG
 
All buttoned up and took a little test run. Runs well and maintained 190 to 200 idling on a hot day. Just have to do some tuning and get the exhaust pipes modified for the headers.

20180805_183742.jpg 20180805_183750.jpg
 
Last edited:
That looks great Glen! What's the weather like up in your neck of the woods?
 
Glenwood said:
Not crazy like AZ but it's been close to 100F with the humidity since mid June I think.
Click to expand...
Wow, I never would have imagined! We've been in the 108 to 112 range the past few weeks. Really tough finding a time to prime and paint my hood. Had to order the slow reducer to shoot it hopefully when it cools to 101 lol.
 
threewood said:
Oh man, I agree. So much stuff to mull over and order. I just got my exhaust from Jegs and its 100 degrees outside lol. What route are you taking with your exhaust? I actually used the Jegs exhaust on my 62 with a few modification and it fit great.
Click to expand...
 
Hi
Just wondering what exhaust you got from jigs and what mods you had to make. I have a 65 and they dont have one for that year. (Headers back)
 
Jeffcoronet said:
Hi
Just wondering what exhaust you got from jigs and what mods you had to make. I have a 65 and they dont have one for that year. (Headers back)
Click to expand...
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/30502/10002/-1?ymm=4294829709+4294828902+4294828881

The s bends from the back of the muffler over the axle needed cut and shortened that I remember. It really was pretty close and comes with all the hardware you need. After I blew the seams out on one of Jegs mufflers I bought welded Ultraflows. I thought Jegs had a kit without the mufflers...
 
Now only if I could drive it!
Can't seem to get it to keep cool. The underhood heat is MUCH better due to the headers and shroud, but it still creeps up too much, like 220F while idling in the shop. The timing should be right at 20 init and 34 all in with about 8-10 deg in the vac adv. Carb is tuned and I believe close with no soot out the pipes and plugs look good.
I think it is or was air locked. No flow after passing 195 with the 180 stat.
I pulled the rad to flush it just in case and pulled the high flow summit water pump to inspect the rotor, all is good. High flow 180 stat with bleeder hole tested fine which opens at 187. Wierd. Putting it back together tonight and will fill it again but jacked up this time. I think ghe fan is too far into the shroud though so I'm trying to find a 1/2" spacer. Anyone ever cut one?
Anyway, I plan to drive it to moparfest this weekend If all goes well!
 
Glenwood said:
I think ghe fan is too far into the shroud though so I'm trying to find a 1/2" spacer.
Click to expand...

You need about a third of the fan showing out of the shroud. At least something showing or it will create a turbulence inside the area between the shroud and radiator and not enough air will be pulled through the radiator.

Put a piece of cardboard on the radiator while its running and see how much it takes to pull it off. Then check again when you adjust the fan location.

I believe i bought my spacers from Summit.
 
Glenwood said:
Now only if I could drive it!
Can't seem to get it to keep cool. The underhood heat is MUCH better due to the headers and shroud, but it still creeps up too much, like 220F while idling in the shop. The timing should be right at 20 init and 34 all in with about 8-10 deg in the vac adv. Carb is tuned and I believe close with no soot out the pipes and plugs look good.
I think it is or was air locked. No flow after passing 195 with the 180 stat.
I pulled the rad to flush it just in case and pulled the high flow summit water pump to inspect the rotor, all is good. High flow 180 stat with bleeder hole tested fine which opens at 187. Wierd. Putting it back together tonight and will fill it again but jacked up this time. I think ghe fan is too far into the shroud though so I'm trying to find a 1/2" spacer. Anyone ever cut one?
Anyway, I plan to drive it to moparfest this weekend If all goes well!
Click to expand...
I had the same problem Glenwood. I finally got tired of heat problems and replaced the factory 3 core radiator, the cast iron water pump and the flex fan. I went with an aluminum Champion radiator, a Flow Kooler water pump and an electric fan. Even with 11 to 1 compression and 550 HP, I am fine in the southern heat. She runs at 180. She will heat up to 195 in traffic and at stoplights, but my overheating problems are solved.
 
This OER alum rad looks like good quality with 2x1" tubes. Nothing scary came out of it while flushing upside down. Unless 22" is undersized for this <500hp RB, it should be fine. The fan is about 85% inside the shroud at about 3/4" from the rad surface. With the shroud being 2.25", I think the fan needs to move back about 1/4". While there is suction in front of the rad, it isn't as strong as I would expect. So I dropped a spare spacer off to a machinist here to cut it down. If he gets it done today, I should have it all back together tonight and test.
Using an IR gun, the drop in temperature across the rad (top to bottom) was only about 25 degrees, but the bottom and top rad hose were hotter than the rad by some 15-20 degrees rising to 200F. That's why I think air was trapped. After the head swap, I filled the system level to the ground and didn't let it run long enough with the cap off to move the air out. The rad cap at 16psi may not be right either so air can't escape until the pressure rises above that. I noticed the top rad hose under a lot of pressure as well as I forgot to 'burp' the hose. The second go around I corrected this, but I think I have jack the car up a bit to help displace the air in the block when I refill it tonight.

Also, I installed the pertronix2 ignitor and eliminated the orange box and ballast. Set up was easy but I had to hand file the bracket to permit the proper gap of .030 as the nut that tightens the plate would hit the bracket that holds the pick up, forcing it out which widens the gap.
The new taylor sparkplug wires fit much better than those sloppy MSD wires.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Auggie56
My 67' Belvedere 2 Rebuild
Replies
12
Views
625
Auggie56
Auggie56
Christian-440
440 + 413 mix
Replies
19
Views
2K
RemCharger
RemCharger
A
Prepping 1972 Plymouth satellite for a road trip
Replies
9
Views
1K
Hilljack68
Hilljack68
DemonSRT
New member from Ontario, Canada
2 3
Replies
42
Views
2K
Fury 440
Fury 440
hemi71x
  • Locked
SOLD CARTER AFB 4 Barrel Carburetors. 40+ Year Collection. All Years & Engines.
Replies
1
Views
925
hemi71x
hemi71x
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top