Cant spin wheel after lugs are tight

[koosh]

OK guys, picked up new different brand of shoes this morning and installed one side so far installed the new drum and the wheel and it definitely got harder to spin, but didn’t lock up.removed the wheel and the new drum installed the old drum after it had been turned down and cleaned up, installed the wheel, and I can now spin it! I’m wondering if I don’t have the star adjuster Turned up too tight? Obviously, the old drum is going to be a little bit bigger than the new and that’s why it spins now? Maybe a combination of the different shoes and the old drum I don’t know I’m going crazy.

 

[YY1]

You don't want a drag.

...but you want almost instant contact.

I like to smack the drum back and forth to help set the shoes.

BTW- back a few pics, I see the adjuster anchor is on the top of the springs.

I always put that on the bottom. That way the springs keep it on.

 

[Krooser]

My guess is those Chinese drums are not machined correctly...saw it before... the shoes hit the inside face of the drum.

 

[Don Frelier]

You don't want a drag.

...but you want almost instant contact.

I like to smack the drum back and forth to help set the shoes.

BTW- back a few pics, I see the adjuster anchor is on the top of the springs.

I always put that on the bottom. That way the springs keep it on.

Installing new shoes I do want them to drag.
When they are new the surface is rough and they need to wear that part off a bit. (similar to bedding brake pads)
I usually just play with the adjuster until I can just barely get the drum on.
It will be tough to turn by hand but that hardly affects the car.
The rough surface will quickly smooth out after a few stops and the brake pedal will be right at the top.
I've always done them this way and they work great.

 

[koosh]

Ok guys…. Fronts are done. Ended up using the THIRD brand of shoes, and the new drums. (Too bad since i paid $50 to turn the old ones).
But figured mine as well use the bew stuff. After tightening the wheels down, i can still spin by hand, albeit pretty stiff, but at least not locking up. Im hoping after driving a bit they “break in” ok. Wont know for sometime how they work as im beginning a new project removing the leaking steering box.
I want to thank everyone who replied in this post. EXTREMELY HELPFUL!

 

[Don Frelier]

If they don't move freely between the backing plate and the inside of the drum face they may still lock up.
Like I said dragging on the radius of the drum a bit should be OK.

 

[Black_Sheep]

The correct procedure for adjusting is to install shoes, install the drum, turn star wheel until the brakes are tight which centers the shoes in the drum, back off adjuster until the drum turns with slight drag (normally 4-6 clicks)

FYI: ‘69 Super Bees with drum brakes didn’t originally have self adjusters

 

[koosh]

The correct procedure for adjusting is to install shoes, install the drum, turn star wheel until the brakes are tight which centers the shoes in the drum, back off adjuster until the drum turns with slight drag (normally 4-6 clicks)

FYI: ‘69 Super Bees with drum brakes didn’t originally have self adjusters

And the funny thing: it only has self adjusters in the front!!!!

 

[Black_Sheep]

And the funny thing: it only has self adjusters in the front!!!!

Someone installed them after the fact, probably because manual brake hardware kits are hard to find. The correct spring for the bottom by the adjuster is brown and goes from shoe to shoe.

 

[koosh]

Someone installed them after the fact, probably because manual brake hardware kits are hard to find. The correct spring for the bottom by the adjuster is brown and goes from shoe to shoe.

So you’re saying these green ones won’t work?

 

[Black_Sheep]

So you’re saying these green ones won’t work?

They should work because the self adjusting stuff is in place, I was just pointing out the difference…

 

[69_A12_6BBL]

New drum "Out of Round"?
Do you hear any Scraping sounds from new drum(s)?

 

[Black_Sheep]

New drum "Out of Round"?
Do you hear any Scraping sounds from new drum(s)?

Poorly machined new rotors and drums are not uncommon, even among reputable name brands.

 

[69_A12_6BBL]

Poorly machined new rotors and drums are not uncommon, even among reputable name brands.

Indeed! Just like a "New" alternator puts out 4 volts

 

[koosh]

Haven’t been able to drive the car, as i have multiple projects on it going on… BUT— i will say on a previous car i had to have BRAND NEW drums turned down they were so bad !

 

[MOPLUM345]

I have done this…. Slowly but surely drum gets harder and harder to spin until cant move at all. As far as wrong shoes, they are identical to the old, as far as dimensions are concerned. Here is a pic if the new shoes inside the new drum. As I mentioned previously… shoe material is 3”…. Drum surface is 3 1/4”.
Only marks Ive seen, or the “flats “ where those 6 metal tabs stick out a hair wider than the shoe material

View attachment 1635565

It may be you have the wrong shoes and drums. MOPAR had different sizes for different orders. 83/4 axles had regular duty & heavy duty brakes. I would measure from the back plate off the brake shoe rub flat to the axle outter flange. Then measure the back side of the shoe in the drum, to the inner face of the drum to see how play there is. You may be trying to put heavy duty brakes in a standard duty rear end.

 

[Jam72]

I have done this…. Slowly but surely drum gets harder and harder to spin until cant move at all. As far as wrong shoes, they are identical to the old, as far as dimensions are concerned. Here is a pic if the new shoes inside the new drum. As I mentioned previously… shoe material is 3”…. Drum surface is 3 1/4”.
Only marks Ive seen, or the “flats “ where those 6 metal tabs stick out a hair wider than the shoe material

View attachment 1635565

If there is evidence the metal tabs are contacting the backing plates, it would appear the shoes are just too wide. You say they are 3 inch? I cant find the correct shoe specs but I don't recall any as wide as 3 inch ones on any mopars I have worked on. Any parts supplier should be able to look up the shoe specs. Suggest you check the shoe specs with a few suppliers. Any shop manuals I have just provide diameters but not shoe widths. Good luck.

 

[Black_Sheep]

If there is evidence the metal tabs are contacting the backing plates, it would appear the shoes are just too wide. You say they are 3 inch? I cant find the correct shoe specs but I don't recall any as wide as 3 inch ones on any mopars I have worked on. Any parts supplier should be able to look up the shoe specs. Suggest you check the shoe specs with a few suppliers. Any shop manuals I have just provide diameters but not shoe widths. Good luck.

High performance models with drum brakes had 11x3 front and 11x2 1/2 rear. The tabs he is referring to are where the brake shoes contact the pads on the backing plate. When replacing brake shoes it’s important to make sure those pads are free of rust or wear that can prevent the brake shoes from moving freely.

 

[Vinny]

Only the front brakes.
I’m beginning to think previous owner had no clue what he was doing. And maybe the original drums and brakes never spun freely either. But probably able to drive it that way and perhaps that’s why the front always locked up so easily?

View attachment 1635502

View attachment 1635503

Only the front brakes.
I’m beginning to think previous owner had no clue what he was doing. And maybe the original drums and brakes never spun freely either. But probably able to drive it that way and perhaps that’s why the front always locked up so easily?

View attachment 1635502

View attachment 1635503

First off, the self adjuster cable never goes on last at the top pin. It goes on first, then the springs, which hold it in place.

 

[koosh]

First off, the self adjuster cable never goes on last at the top pin. It goes on first, then the springs, which hold it in place.

Already been corrected thanks