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Carb choice for Street-Strip 512

Can't quite tell from your photos, If that's a 4150 to 4500 carb adapter under your carb on the Dart what type did you buy? Thanks!

roadrunner has an 2” adaptor 4500 to 4150 with a 1” wood spacer on top of that.

the dart has a 4500 flanged intake.
 
@383man is your 950 really a 950, or is it the one that Holley calls a "950" that's really a 750?
Holley markets a carb as a 950 that has the same jetting, venturi size, and throttle bores as their 750. So how is it a "950"?


It was the 950 Holley HP that has no choke horn in it and has just the idle and high speed air bleeds replaceable and the main jets of course. It does not have billet metering blocks and list for about $700 in Jegs book. I believe that one is not the 750 you are talking about as I think that one has the same size throttle bores as the 850. It did pull about 1 more mph over the 850 but did not et any better. The 850 is just the standard 850 DP but it works pretty good. Ron
 
Talk to Dom, he knows carbs, if you dont have FB he is on Moparts, Thumper Carbs https://www.facebook.com/thumpercarbs.thumper/
I agree 100%. I have 3 of his carbs and all 3 are awesome right out of the box. Guy knows his stuff and can hook you up with the proper carb no problem. I had his 1100 Dominator on my 511 and you would think it was a 600 holley by the street manners. Ran super clean and snappy and could let engine set several hours, hit start button and it would fire right up and idle. I now have a Indy t ram with his billet 750's. 12.5:1 511 street/strip deal. You wont be sorry.
 
Hey OP,
I have a 1050ish Dominator on my 520, same cam specs as you with MW TF heads (240s ported).
Mine is a 2 circuit, runs clean on the street, mean at the strip. You don't have to worry about fouling plugs and all.
 
Thanks for the info, Sounds like a 1050 is the way to go. My car sees limited street use and I live in a small town with little traffic except on summer weekends. Thanks again to everyone!
 
My 512 low deck stroker build is progressing and all I have left to purchase is a carb and headers. The person I worked with that helped me with a cam choice recommended a 1050 cfm carb. The motor is a flat top piston 11.5 to 1 with TF 270's, cam is 260,264 duration, 656, 662 lift. Transmission is a TCI manual shift 727 with brake, 4.10 rear gear. 28 inch rear tire. I have a couple choices on a torque converter. I have a 4500 9.5 inch and a 3500 11 inch, both are street strip style converters and I'm thinking I'll go with the 3500 to catch some of the massive torque this motor should make between 3 and 4000 rpm. The carb choices I'm looking at are a Gen 3 Holley Dominator 80902BK or a QF Brawler 67209 race carb. Both are 1050 cfm, the QF is a 4150 style carb and of course the Holley is a dominator. Since both flow the same amount of air and gas does one style carb fit my build better then the other? I've never owned or used a Dominator and don't know much about them. This motor is going in my 66 B body that weights 3800 lbs and I drive the car a few 1000 miles during the warm summer months in Minnesota. Any input is welcome, my end result is hopefully a low 11, high 10 second street-strip car that doesn't require 10 hours of maintenance every week. Thank you
I will put the list of "stuff" that is in mine. Was drag car now on the street ( more fun, and any day of the week, and instead of $100 to get to track and go a total mile or so I go where Rebecca and I want to) I ran same carb. both places also a 1050 Dominator ( model 8896 ) very acceptable at track - super on street.
Will put up a question on it in the general discussion area. Going ( I Think) to change the Dist. . From MSD 8546 to MSD 8387 (add some vac. advance) This has worked great for me.
 

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I will put the list of "stuff" that is in mine. Was drag car now on the street ( more fun, and any day of the week, and instead of $100 to get to track and go a total mile or so I go where Rebecca and I want to) I ran same carb. both places also a 1050 Dominator ( model 8896 ) very acceptable at track - super on street.
Will put up a question on it in the general discussion area. Going ( I Think) to change the Dist. . From MSD 8546 to MSD 8387 (add some vac. advance) This has worked great for me.

Thanks for posting all your car info, Helps a lot. Motor set up is pretty similar to mine. Where did you buy the fiberglass bumpers? Thought about replacing my front with a glass one.
 
Can't quite tell from your photos, If that's a 4150 to 4500 carb adapter under your carb on the Dart what type did you buy? Thanks!
The manifold is a Mopar M1 designed with a 1050 mount, spacer is just a spacer. Both intake and spacer are open plenum. Engine was originally designed as a drag race engine.( Muscle Motors Killer Krate) Having more fun on street with it. It cost about $100-150 for a day at the track to make a max. of 6 passes ( usually only two time trails) rest depended on how we did during eliminations. That kind of money can make a few days of local street driving.
Bumpers came from a place I WOULD NOT recommend!! Long list of people here and on line also had problems. Not receiving parts wrong stuff, etc. Do not know if still around. Sent info to BBB in their area, all emails back and forth etc. Did have to eventually use them as no satisfaction was given. But at least I got parts - wrong ones but got something, others not so lucky. Long story short I asked for bumpers for a 66 Satellite got for a 67. And we all know they are different. they said that they made them. But they sent me the 67's because they said they were close enough. Holes for directional light VS not. Place called Sled City. Still have all info if you want it. my Advice STAY AWAY!!!!!!
 
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Regardless of which carb you use, the 9.5 converter is what will really wake it up. My street car went from 11.70@122 to 11.05@123 going from a 10.75 to a 9.5. Same with my racecar. If someone had told me it needed a 6000 stall converter with a 15-1 572, I would have never believed them. It did. As for carbs I've been running a pair of box stock Eddy 750s for 8 years. This Spring its getting a real pair. Thin shaft, high flow annular billet body Holley style 4150's. We aren't allowed Dominators. Hopefully they'll improve the current best of 9.005@150. We'll see.
Doug
 
Regardless of which carb you use, the 9.5 converter is what will really wake it up. My street car went from 11.70@122 to 11.05@123 going from a 10.75 to a 9.5. Same with my racecar. If someone had told me it needed a 6000 stall converter with a 15-1 572, I would have never believed them. It did. As for carbs I've been running a pair of box stock Eddy 750s for 8 years. This Spring its getting a real pair. Thin shaft, high flow annular billet body Holley style 4150's. We aren't allowed Dominators. Hopefully they'll improve the current best of 9.005@150. We'll see.
Doug


Wow Doug 11.70 @ 122 !!!!!! That was one bad converter. Ron
 
That's what we do. Has run 11.1's on motor, 10.3's on a whiff of spray and I can drive this thing anywhere on pump gas through the mufflers and pull down 11mpg. The damn thing runs like it is fuel injected.
Ours actually will run 10-50's with the 4.11's, With 4.56's and tire change from 28" tall to 30" believe might make the 30"s ? that is also with the full comp trans. (727) and the 9" - 4500 Stall. Do not know enough to add "juice" to it. So stay with what I know.
 
Ours actually will run 10-50's with the 4.11's, With 4.56's and tire change from 28" tall to 30" believe might make the 30"s ? that is also with the full comp trans. (727) and the 9" - 4500 Stall. Do not know enough to add "juice" to it. So stay with what I know.
Minor update. It ran 10.01 @ 133 mph last test test and tune of the season.
 
I think a dominator is to much carb. I think looking at 850 or maybe a bit bigger. Sounds like you want the whole package like we all do. Cruise on the weekend and knock down 11s at the track and.drive home again. No matter what you go with its going to take some tuning , going to hve to find that happy medium between driving and all out race. The domintor was not ment to be a cruiser ....
Agree 100%. That is why it is on there. Just thought I would try and help "clean up" the possible excess fuel issues. As stated by me here. And I really do not even know if I have any - never used a wide band to test any air/fuel ratios at any RPM. Have read a great number of articles that say ANY street car ( which it will be now ) needs vacuum advance to help it live. A modern fuel injection system that controls timing would fix that, but money here is going into windows, roof, and remodel. So trying to stay busy ( so I have something to add to the " What did you do to your B-Body today forum). And I do like to "piddle".
 
i run a 1050 Holley 4500 on my 505 , daily driver plus bracket racer .
At this point im not sure fuel economy is the answer , you are running 505ci . It is the Holley SP aluminium unit , and yes i have done some changes . Unless you run a custom billet carb you will probably not get the same air flow as a 4500 , 1 has 1-3/4"butterflys the other 2"
Also it seems with the max wedge port you only get 4500 manifold unless you use an adapter (?) .
as to converter put the bigger one in , it will drive better and be quicker . Again i have a 8"6000 stall .

Tex
PS : if i was to think of milage , maybe 8-9mpg in town ,10-11 highway
I already did trans. stuff. Had a full comp 727, which hit REALLY hard and a 9" 4500 stall. Now Had ATI build me a street/ strip (their description - I told them about it, and what we wanted it to do etc.) Convertor changed to a custom built 9" 3500 stall ( have to put a set of 30" drag radials on and get the 28" off)- part of what I said to ATI I had planned. Works perfectly on the street. Still have to be careful starting it. - 2 50cc accel pumps and no choke, but it idles at 900-1000 in gear with NO problems and throttle is as smooth and instant as injection.
 
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