Carter Carb and Intake advice

[kallio67]

First off, I recently bought a 1967 Dodge Coronet 440 and I am looking to get it running like a champ. There are no plans to have a drag car here...It plans to live on the street with some time on the Highway, as they are often times hard to avoid here in Atlanta Ga. It was originally a 318 automatic but it currently has a 383-4bbl out of a 1969 Dodge Charger...it is still an automatic. From what can tell, everything else is original to the car...aside from the wheels. It has a stock intake manifold, 625 cfm Carter AFB 9634 SA Comp Series carburetor, headers(not sure what kind) into 2.5" pipes. At 70 mph it runs at just over 2000 rpm, so I am assuming it has the stock 2.94 open rear end. It was an AC car, but none of the components are there and I do not have plans to reinstall it. It also has a slight stutter when I hit the gas from a dead stop.

I' feel like ive done a ton of research on the Carter carb but haven't really gotten the answer I'm looking for. I also keep reading that for street application I should look for a carb with vacuum secondaries. Does the Carter AFB 9000 series carb has vacuum secondaries? Is there a better carb option? Ideally, I would prefer to keep the Carter if there is no benefit to replacing it. I am also looking to upgrade to an Edelbrock Intake Manifold. What kind of intake manifold should I pair with it...low rise/high rise? Will I see any major performance improvement with an upgraded intake manifold?

As I stated before, I'm not looking to build a race car...but I'd be lying if I said I wouldn't go red light to red light from time to time.

Any insight will be appreciated.
View attachment 164398

 

[ODZKing]

I can't give you too much info/help but I can tell you what I have on my 67 Charger (383).
Original 383 switched over to 4bbl with OEM intake and carb. Carter AFB 4299S.
No interest in track here either but like you I don't mind having some guts under my foot while driving.
I get 12-13 mpg around town and 17-18 on trips to Carlisle.
Probably would be better if I could keep my foot out of the 4bbl but hey, that's what it's there for.
Frankly, I am more interested in milage these days than anything, as fuel with all the extra fuel additives I have to put in the tank - gets more expensive.

 

[miller]

That's ditto for me. It's been way too many years since I've had my hands on an AFB. But, I had a 69 Road Runner, and mounted one of those 625 cfm comp series AFBs onto the 383 HiPo. Like any of those carbs, any of the comp series AFBs work great. If the 625 cfm is enough for your motor, keep it bolted on.
All my Carter info is lost in the dust. Though digging deep enough, you should be able to find some. I kinda remember my 625 had mechanical secondarys, working off of a link from the primarys. If you slowly move the throttle arm to full open (engine off), you'll see if it's mechanical secondarys. It does not matter what kind of secondarys you have...only if they work when you want them to.

 

[Meep-Meep]

The Carter carb is about as good as it gets for a driver. Your stutter can be a couple of things. First make sure your are testing with a fully warmed up engine. What is your idle vacuum? I assume you have a stock smooth idle cam? Timing is set at ~10 deg BTDC and ~38 deg total all in by ~3000 RPM?

When you hit the gas what does that mean? Floored or tip in? If floored then that may be accelerator pump or secondary calibration, or a combination of both. Timing may be an issue. Ignition system in good shape?

If you have a stock cam and just want a driver there is little reason to change the intake from the stock iron 4 BBL (as found on the 69 Charger). Even with a slightly hotter cam that intake works fine so save your money. What you should do is put the money into hard exhaust seats and accompanying head work if you want it to live on unleaded gas. If you don't believe me about the stock intake go look at my 12 second build thread in the race section.

 

[ODZKing]

BTW, you can find some info here:
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=21
Turning guide etc. Enjoy

 

[monaco66coupe]

is the fuel outlet on the front of the carb, (GM)or on the passenger side rear? (Mopar) that 9634SA is close in numbers to some GM carters I have.

 

[hemidon1]

Carter & Edelbrock carbs are great for the street-& do very well in most forms of competitive raceing--more often than not--vacumn advance malfuntions are the culprit--poor mixture adjustments & fuel delivery are next--the carbs are VERY forgiveing in nature--Ive been rebuilding these since the early 60s & have multipule carbs on every thing I own--I am an expert on these & willing to help anyone iron out there carb woes. A single carb is even easier to diagnios & I have info on most models--ie float specs etc--I also do Holleys--& many forein carbs as well--772-878-2085--or hemidon1@gmail .com--

 

[miller]

Your getting some great info. Yeah, your secondarys are mechanical. The stutter bit probably is a 'weak' accelerator pump. Simple to put a new one in. Your distributor advance could be dragging, too. One last thought is the fact that the biggest enemy for carbs is dirt. Keep it clean, inside and out.

 

[Meep-Meep]

Yes, they are mechanical, but I wanted to say earlier they use an airflow actuated set of butterflies called velocity valves. So sort of like a vacuum secondary.

 

[67 coronet]

one thing that no one mentioned is what sort of choke system does your carb have?if it is lagging or slow reacting that could be part of or the whole problem you are having.you can take carters apart without damaging anygaskets most of the time.looking inside the carb will give you a good indication if it need rebuilding.very easy to do on these carbs.look for any dirt or debris inside,if you got it a rebuild is a great idea.would solve any accelerator pump problems as well if the choke is good.as mentioned by others,that carb and intake should work great in your setup.pulling the intake and giving it a good cleaning is not a bad idea.oil and dirt buildup can cause flow issues on old intakes.cleaning out the heat cross over is a must as well.

 

[kallio67]

I appreciate everyone's input. This is my first jump into classic cars so I apologize for my ignorance. I am somewhat torn as to what I want from the car. I definitely do not want a track car, but on the other hand I want something steetable that has a lot of balls.

Thanks again for everyone's input.

- - - Updated - - -

Monaco66....the fuel outlet is on the passenger side rear, so according to you description it is a Mopar Carter. However, when did a search for Cater models, this particular model did not show up on the Mopar list. I made a slight adjustment with the butterfly and the stutter went away.

 

[miller]

While glancing at Carter stuff online, I couldn't find that number, either. Much of the times there is a metal tag with a number, too. Still doesn't mean much except the base model of carb. Simple difs like choke type, and the type changes numbers. As long as the number is right, it's out there somewhere.
Yeah, just a simple adjustment off, can make for poor performance. The beauty of an AFB is once all is set right, it will keep on ticking. As far as the 625 cfm, it's all a combo working together, just giving the motor what it wants. Can't go wrong with an AFB.

 

[monaco66coupe]

I have several 9500 carters like that, Back in the 70's you could walk into a champion store and buy them. So, I believe that is why they aren't in a mopar book. They are good carbs, though.