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Thank you brwnbare 
CDN72SE's Restoration Thread
- Thread starter Charger72
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Picked up a couple more parts.
Pulled the trigger and bought a repro fuel filler neck, now to do something with the other four I have collected over the years, long, short who knows what i have.
Clips for the ramcharger hoses, already had some black but thought I would go with the more original looking ones.
Pulled the trigger and bought a repro fuel filler neck, now to do something with the other four I have collected over the years, long, short who knows what i have.
Clips for the ramcharger hoses, already had some black but thought I would go with the more original looking ones.
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Juts continuing to do little things, didn't want to spend money replacing the rear axle bumpers so I re-used what I've got.
Here they are after being removed for the first time, full of dirt and partial undercoating:
Soaked the brackets and screws in Evaporust, wiped on some RPM. Used a wire wheel to clean up the bumpers and sprayed a couple of coats of SEM black.
Back on the car:
Here they are after being removed for the first time, full of dirt and partial undercoating:
Soaked the brackets and screws in Evaporust, wiped on some RPM. Used a wire wheel to clean up the bumpers and sprayed a couple of coats of SEM black.
Back on the car:
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Are yah done yet??? 
Looking good !
Wayne
Looking good !
Wayne
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Life is getting a bit in the way lately, trying to keep motivated as well.
Glenwood
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One day at a time and it will get done. Looking good!
showard
Well-Known Member
Just keep cleaning parts when you can. Eventually you will have a lot done. Your doing a great job.
I have been working on my project for 10 years now. I have not gone one month without getting something done on my car. Now I am finally getting close.
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Thanks for the words showard and Glenwood. I do feel satisfaction when I actually get the time to do little things here and there.
Glenwood
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It can be tough at times. I decided to replace the floor pan which seemed like a huge job since I'd never done it before. Then on to the truck pan. It was brutal but I was determined. Assembly was the most fun as I watched it turn back into a car again. I was forever cleaning bolts! Thought it would never end lol
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I've followed your thread and the way your skills have progressed through your build is amazing. Fun stuff to watch.
CDN72SE
Well-Known Member
Cleaned up, SEM Black and RPM original screws and repros.
CDN72SE
Well-Known Member
Realized my old mirrors did my shiny doors an injustice so I purchased a pair of replacement mirrors from Classic Industries. They look very nice though the stile line on the mirror is not as crisp as the original, it does come with an odd plastic gasket and screws that are not like the originals. Think I will keep my original gasket and mounting screws. Here they are.
In case you can't tell the repro is on the left; my original on the right has a bad replacement mirror over top of the original cracked mirror.
Passenger side:
In case you can't tell the repro is on the left; my original on the right has a bad replacement mirror over top of the original cracked mirror.
Passenger side:
CDN72SE
Well-Known Member
Also picked up one of these tools to install the lock ring in the fuel tank.
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Just got a delivery at work, when I looked at all the effort that would have to go into cleaning, de-rusting, removing ball joint (I did buy the socket) and painting I figured I would buy these.
Glenwood
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Slick!
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Interior Rear Quarter interior panel and support:
Or whatever it is called. :scratchchin:
Cleaned up the panels and sprayed them with some gloss black paint:
And applied some of that caulk from DMT to replace what was there, think it was there so the panel and the support didn't make any rattling noise.
I'll install them after I get the rear quarter windows in.
Or whatever it is called. :scratchchin:
Cleaned up the panels and sprayed them with some gloss black paint:
And applied some of that caulk from DMT to replace what was there, think it was there so the panel and the support didn't make any rattling noise.
I'll install them after I get the rear quarter windows in.
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Since my first 5 pages had the images wiped out, I'm going to add all that info again over the next few pages. Hey I'm bored and still on vacation mode. The previous progress goes to page 12.
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/cdn72ses-restoration-thread.124369/page-12
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/cdn72ses-restoration-thread.124369/page-12
Last edited:
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This is my Y8 1972 Dodge Charger SE Brougham (production date 7-71) that I purchased from Nigel at National Moparts it was a rust-free North Carolina car that was parked due to a bad transmission and brought to Canada. To keep it running and because it was also a 318 car I swapped in my old 318 & TorqueFlite 727 from my first SE and drove it for about 5 years. It was last registered and on the road in 1992. It's traveled with me from place to place waiting for a restoration. I guess it's time to track what I will be doing, I am not a mechanic (or a body guy) but I have enjoyed working on my cars since I was young. I learned a lot early on from not having a lot of money to pay someone else to do the work for me.
This is basically how I bought it in August of 1992, I put on my Western Turbine rims that I had on my previous SE. It did come with 14" Rallye's which I sold to a guy with a Challenger. Then I bought a set of 15x7 Rallyes from Motor City Originals. Shortly after getting it home I added the Year One front spoiler, I also added the dual cut-out exhaust rear valence from a '74, it was pretty rusted, I cleaned it up and painted it, thought it looked cool even though my exhaust was nowhere near the openings. I never would have thought that 17 years later there would be new ones being produced, thanks AMD.
I’m not sure on the colour, I could go original but I probably won’t. I’m just adding the parts to it that I like such as the Ramcharger hood, front & rear spoilers, buckets, console with shifter, R/T taillights, hood pins and a tachometer to replace the clock. As far as the engine I will probably go with a 360.
I'd love to hear any comments or suggestions guys/gals.
Those are P275/60R15's on the rear and up front P255/60R15's.
Rattle-can WAL-Mart black primer:
Yes it has the rear spoiler decklid cut-outs and yes it is the original '72 decklid. :2thumbs:
Here she sits, March 2007 just after me moved to the new house, double-car garage... finally, now I'll have some room to work on it. Don't really have a budget, I'll probably fund some of it by selling some of my extra "back-up" pieces (yes still have a few). This will be a slow restoration that's for sure, I'll be doing as much as I can.
Removed the hood, decklid, fenders, doors, etc.
Not too bad behind the fenders:
Quite a bit of undercoating.
Some rear shots:
The car is pretty much fully covered with factory undercoating:
Couple of my 318 from my previous 72 that I installed in this car:
Rented an engine hoist from my local Stephenson's Rental, took me about two hours by myself (I did take my time) to get it out, as you can see I left the tranny attached and pulled it out as a unit. I had to let the air out of the two front tires to give me enough clearance over the radiator frame. Maybe I could have gone higher with the jack but was a bit fearful that my anchoring bolts on the engine may give way.
Transmission separated:
After 18 years the 318 is out again.
Rolled it outside, you definitely don't see anything like this in my neighbourhood.
Removed the torsion bars, wasn't as bad as I thought it would be, really had to whack them though.
Then I removed the 4 bolts for the K-Frame and dropped the whole assembly on to some blocks temporarily.
Here's the front suspension:
This is basically how I bought it in August of 1992, I put on my Western Turbine rims that I had on my previous SE. It did come with 14" Rallye's which I sold to a guy with a Challenger. Then I bought a set of 15x7 Rallyes from Motor City Originals. Shortly after getting it home I added the Year One front spoiler, I also added the dual cut-out exhaust rear valence from a '74, it was pretty rusted, I cleaned it up and painted it, thought it looked cool even though my exhaust was nowhere near the openings. I never would have thought that 17 years later there would be new ones being produced, thanks AMD.
I’m not sure on the colour, I could go original but I probably won’t. I’m just adding the parts to it that I like such as the Ramcharger hood, front & rear spoilers, buckets, console with shifter, R/T taillights, hood pins and a tachometer to replace the clock. As far as the engine I will probably go with a 360.
I'd love to hear any comments or suggestions guys/gals.
Those are P275/60R15's on the rear and up front P255/60R15's.
Rattle-can WAL-Mart black primer:
Yes it has the rear spoiler decklid cut-outs and yes it is the original '72 decklid. :2thumbs:
Here she sits, March 2007 just after me moved to the new house, double-car garage... finally, now I'll have some room to work on it. Don't really have a budget, I'll probably fund some of it by selling some of my extra "back-up" pieces (yes still have a few). This will be a slow restoration that's for sure, I'll be doing as much as I can.
Removed the hood, decklid, fenders, doors, etc.
Not too bad behind the fenders:
Quite a bit of undercoating.
Some rear shots:
The car is pretty much fully covered with factory undercoating:
Couple of my 318 from my previous 72 that I installed in this car:
Rented an engine hoist from my local Stephenson's Rental, took me about two hours by myself (I did take my time) to get it out, as you can see I left the tranny attached and pulled it out as a unit. I had to let the air out of the two front tires to give me enough clearance over the radiator frame. Maybe I could have gone higher with the jack but was a bit fearful that my anchoring bolts on the engine may give way.
Transmission separated:
After 18 years the 318 is out again.
Rolled it outside, you definitely don't see anything like this in my neighbourhood.
Removed the torsion bars, wasn't as bad as I thought it would be, really had to whack them though.
Then I removed the 4 bolts for the K-Frame and dropped the whole assembly on to some blocks temporarily.
Here's the front suspension:
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Interior
I had removed the interior years ago, originally gold with a benchseat. I replaced the bench with one green and one white bucket seat that I had purchased and some panels from my previous SE that had the blue interior. Some of the panels I painted black (bad vinyl spray) and the back seat. I think I'm going to go with a white interior. Still debating the exterior colour.
Some more, I still have one of the Chrysler issued trash bags that came with the car. POR-15, peeled in a lot of places, yes I followed the directions, that was applied in 1992.
Back seat area:
Trunk:
More - really not bad, the trunk has some surface rust and all floorboards are pretty solid.
I had removed the interior years ago, originally gold with a benchseat. I replaced the bench with one green and one white bucket seat that I had purchased and some panels from my previous SE that had the blue interior. Some of the panels I painted black (bad vinyl spray) and the back seat. I think I'm going to go with a white interior. Still debating the exterior colour.
Some more, I still have one of the Chrysler issued trash bags that came with the car. POR-15, peeled in a lot of places, yes I followed the directions, that was applied in 1992.
Back seat area:
Trunk:
More - really not bad, the trunk has some surface rust and all floorboards are pretty solid.
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Rallye Wheel Center Caps
Decided to do a little cleanup of some '71 Rallye Wheel centre caps (appliques) that I bought off eBay, I have seven in total some are the correct dark (charcoal) colour for '71 and some are the argent silver for 1970. I loosely followed an article that I have from a June 1991 Musclecar Review magazine. Materials I used include: Eastwood's Charcoal Rallye Wheel paint, 000-grade steel wool, chrome polish, 3M masking tape, and new rallye wheel center cap inserts. This is the procedure I followed:
1. Use a fine grade scuff pad like a 3M or Scotch to rough up the area which will allow the paint to adhere. Be sure to get into all the hard-to-reach areas, like lug nut holes.
2. Use the steel wool to to clean the unpainted chrome areas and use a polish to then polish those areas.
3. Mask off the clean chrome areas with 3M masking tape, leave some overhang and then trim off the pieces with a sharp knife or razor blade. Mask the back of the holes to prevent overspray.
4. Then paint the cap keeping the spray approx. 18-30 inches away, remember to turn the cap around a few times to get all the areas and 100% coverage.
Here is the finish product, with a fresh coat of paint and a new center cap insert which I purchased off eBay. I think they look good enough and I spent about 1.5hrs and less than $40. The taping and masking was the time consuming part.
Decided to do a little cleanup of some '71 Rallye Wheel centre caps (appliques) that I bought off eBay, I have seven in total some are the correct dark (charcoal) colour for '71 and some are the argent silver for 1970. I loosely followed an article that I have from a June 1991 Musclecar Review magazine. Materials I used include: Eastwood's Charcoal Rallye Wheel paint, 000-grade steel wool, chrome polish, 3M masking tape, and new rallye wheel center cap inserts. This is the procedure I followed:
1. Use a fine grade scuff pad like a 3M or Scotch to rough up the area which will allow the paint to adhere. Be sure to get into all the hard-to-reach areas, like lug nut holes.
2. Use the steel wool to to clean the unpainted chrome areas and use a polish to then polish those areas.
3. Mask off the clean chrome areas with 3M masking tape, leave some overhang and then trim off the pieces with a sharp knife or razor blade. Mask the back of the holes to prevent overspray.
4. Then paint the cap keeping the spray approx. 18-30 inches away, remember to turn the cap around a few times to get all the areas and 100% coverage.
Here is the finish product, with a fresh coat of paint and a new center cap insert which I purchased off eBay. I think they look good enough and I spent about 1.5hrs and less than $40. The taping and masking was the time consuming part.
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