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Chasing Drips

67GTX440

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Jacksonville, FL
With everything else done on my 67 GTX, I started chasing those small drips on the garage floor. Cardboard under the car identified a very small amount of oil, a very small amount of transmission fluid and mostly automatic transmission fluid. After cleaning and foot powder spraying everything, I found the following.

Small oil drip seemed to be coming from oil filter. The bottom radiator hose was tight enough that it was touching the filter and I am sure it was causing some pressure on the filter when the engine was revved. I replaced the hose and noticed the old hose had been trimmed some that was causing lack of clearance. Changed oil and filter and oil drip gone.

Power steering fluid seemed to be leaking from the o-ring to fluid reservoir. I pulled the power steering pump and sent it to Lares for a rebuild through Rock Auto. I think their rebuild was $140, which is a huge increase from last time I had it rebuilt. I think last time it was $60. Cardone rebuilt this five years ago and they seem to be moving to Texas or Mexico and were not an option as Rock Auto not longer uses them. Put it on and transmission fluid leak gone.

The transmission fluid leak was a little trickier. I had replaced the pan gasket and dipstick seal and had no improvement. The torque converter was draining back if the car sat a few days and I had to put it in neutral to pump back up before the car would move. I would have sworn the pan gasket was still leaking as the fluid was dripping off the front edge of the pan. Otherwise it drove okay, though was hard to get to kickdown. I cleaned the bottom of the car up and put fresh cardboard under the car and made an effort to drive the car daily. When the car was driven daily, there was no transmission fluid drip. Startup after torque converter drainback seemed to be the issue. Something was leaking somewhere when the pan was overfilled. I bit the bullet and took the car to an old car specialty shop and told the transmission guy the common wisdom on the forum was that a 727 always dripped. He said BS, that they did not drain back or drip when new and worn seals would causetorque converter drainback and leaks long before the transmission needed a full rebuild. He said most owners repeatedly changed the transmission pan gasket because that looked like the source of the drip when this was not usually the problem if you replaced it already. He said he uses the cheap cork gaskets and no RTV. This guy rebuilds mostly 50's through 70's transmissions of all makes and most transmission shops look like you have two heads when you ask about torque converter drainback on a 727. I asked him if a check valve on the transmission cooler return line would solve the drainback issue and he not only knew what I was talking about, but said it might and he installed them and had that resolve the issue before. Not having any history on the transmission other than it is original, I asked him what it cost for a complete rebuild and he said $1495 plus tax and that included a new torque converter. Him taking it out and putting it back in. I opted for the rebuild as this seemed pretty reasonable as compared to automatic transmission work I had done in the past. I think I paid $700 for a Powerglide rebuild back in 1969, and about $2500 for a Honda Prelude rebuild about 1990. I got the car back in two days and it shifts great, and kicks down into second much better than it ever did before. He said the hard parts and soft parts in the transmission looked okay and the torque converter was obviously shot. Since about $400 in labor is getting the transmission in and out of the car, and having no history of the last rebuild, I was okay with doing the entire rebuild to avoid future issues that might cause it to come out again. The torque converter now holds fluid when sitting for days and no more shifting into neutral and waiting for torque converter to pump full. No drips or leaks at all on the garage floor.
This is the first time the car has not dripped something in the five years I have owned it.
It is like I have a new 67 GTX in the garage. I am a happy camper. My wife no longer has to point out the drips to me each time I move the car, which is also a huge plus. My wife is no fan of this car ever since I rebuilt the dashboard on her antique dining room table she inherited from her grandmother. LOL
 
I'm resigned to my GTX always leaking something. I rebuilt the transmission myself last year and replaced a lot of parts, seals, valve body kit, new converter, etc. Still drains back after shut down but it doesn't leak. I would love to know what single step your rebuilder did to stop the drain back. I tried to address every possibility during my rebuild and it's sealed up tight - but still drains back. I wonder if it isn't something inside these converter cores that doesn't get addressed when an outfit like Hughes or their supplier rebuilds/modifies them.

Also in the midst of changing out the PS pump reservoir O-ring for the second time. The first time years ago never sealed it completely - front seal is dry. This time I'm sanding the rim of the can to take off any roughness where the seal rests and planning to put a light coat of oil-resistant RTV on the o-ring when I reassemble.

Hopefully this will take care of my worse leaks but I still have a little oil film on the underside of the engine from misc gaskets on it. The only one that actually leaked was the oil pump gasket which dried up after replacement.

Pat yourself on the back if you got all of yours sealed up.
 
That's a great diagnosis and repair story. For the exception of the radiator hose placing pressure on the oil filter. Replacing the filter stopped the leak. I've seen radiator hoses touching the filter and that can result in the filter rubbing a hole in the hose.

First time that I heard of a bad or worn out torque converter being the cause of drain back. Maybe the replacement of the internal seals in the trans was the cure.

All in all its nice to have everything operating like it suppose to and no drips! Good job :thumbsup:
 
Here we go again with the drainback!!! I rebuilt mine wayback and it didn’t do it then, probably 10,000 on it & 20yrs sitting & now it does it. Just has a stock converter. in it & mine will do a drainback after 1/2hr shutoff if nose high on a grade. This crap is really exasperating; I’m interested in the answer also..
 
A friend once said "If it don't leak,it ain't a MOPAR". I must say that leaks are annoying. The smaller they are the harder to find.
 
I was told years ago by a old Mopar tech that air leaking in was causing the converter to drain back into the pan causing it to over fill after the car sits over night or so. Bad o-ring on the dip stick, selector shaft seal would dry out or the pan gasket was bad causing oil leaks and no go when you placed the car in drive till the converter would fill up again. He told me to place the car in neutral, start the car so the pump would refill the converter before placing it in drive in the morning. The front seal could be leaking too while the car was being driven. I believe he said it was the front seal or torque converter shaft worn not having a tight seal causing air to enter the transmission after it was shut off. I've seen this happen even with a new seal so it meant the converter shaft was slightly worn even though it would not leak from the seal but air was still getting by it after the car was shut off.
 
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My modern Tremec TKO 5 leaks like hell and always will. Gave up. My oil filter is in contact with the lower hose too, but gives and the filter is tight and leak free. Not sure how it could cause a filter leak.
 
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I was told years ago by a old Mopar tech that air leaking in was causing the converter to drain back into the pan causing it to over fill after the car sits over night or so. Bad o-ring on the dip stick, selector shaft seal would dry out or the pan gasket was bad causing oil leaks and no go when you placed the car in drive till the converter would fill up again. He told me to place the car in neutral, start the car so the pump would refill the converter before placing it in drive in the morning. The front seal could be leaking too while the car was being driven. I believe he said it was the front seal or torque converter shaft worn not having a tight seal causing air to enter the transmission after it was shut off. I've seen this happen even with a new seal so it meant the converter shaft was slightly worn even though it would not leak from the seal but air was still getting by it after the car was shut off.
Moes,you might just have the answer there about the frt.seal. Mine doesn’t leak either.
 
Does the transmission dipstick have a seal up on the stick cap? I haven't looked but figured it didn't so it could act like a vent for the unit.

I replaced all the soft seals, sealing rings and converter on mine and no outward leaks. But as is typically the case I didn't replace all the smaller bushings. They seemed fine and in many cases tighter than what came in the parts kit. However, I learned it's not exactly an apples to apples comparison comparing ID of a loose bushing with an installed bushing so possibly one of my old ones is the culprit. But bushings typically have 2 or 3 thousands clearance for oil film so they by themselves can't be a seal. I'm probably the only person who took about 3 months to rebuild a torqueflite but drain back remains a mystery to me. Seems I remember someone posting that Sonnax has some sort of a kit for the valve body that will really fix drain back. But I didn't know about it at the time and would have to search for it again.
 
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