"Chassis Armor" for big HP cars?

[JR_Charger]

This one's new to me. Legitimate or bogus?

 

[RemCharger]

COI lovers. Nice.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Spend less time fabbing and more time driving. No need for all that welding.

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[Runner 68]

I always doubt the AI narrated ****. Seems bogus to me.

 

[DeltaV]

Legitimate or bogus?

Annoying as heck is what it is.

 

[JR_Charger]

From what I can tell, he's working from a country where it isn't easy to get parts from the U.S.

It won't bother me if I never have to worry about "chassis armor." Surely these chassis stiffening kits are enough?

 

[RemCharger]

If it makes you feel better, no one that races , even with, 1000+ hp has that stuff on their car.
Those guys are inventing a repair for a problem that doesn't exist.

 

[JR_Charger]

If it makes you feel better, no one that races , even with, 1000+ hp has that stuff on their car.
Those guys are inventing a repair for a problem that doesn't exist.

It does make me feel better, cause I want my car to be done at some point. I'm already a bit miffed to find it needs the US Car Tool stuff to keep the windshield from shattering. That's not just money, it's weight.

 

[Cranky]

It does make me feel better, cause I want my car to be done at some point. I'm already a bit miffed to find it needs the US Car Tool stuff to keep the windshield from shattering. That's not just money, it's weight.

You can install 2" x 2" tube from the trans Xmember to the rear frame rails instead of using the Car Tool stuff......

 

[JR_Charger]

You can install 2" x 2" tube from the trans Xmember to the rear frame rails instead of using the Car Tool stuff......

Instead of the subframe connectors, right? I know I've seen a video that talked about how many of the connectors aren't designed well, and if they're not installed a certain way, they're less effective at best.

 

[Cranky]

Instead of the subframe connectors, right? I know I've seen a video that talked about how many of the connectors aren't designed well, and if they're not installed a certain way, they're less effective at best.

Instead of using the Car Tool connectors.....it depends on how fast you are going. The 2x2 square tube is very effective and even more so if you cut slots in the rear floor boards. I didn't have to do that on mine but opened up the front portion of the rear frame rails, and cut a couple of holes in the sides to do rosette welds on the tubes that were slid in and welded where the square tube was against the floors. I used 1/8" sq tube....iirc, the car tool connectors are 1/16". Maybe someone will respond to how thick the CT's are. I've had a couple of fast drag cars done without the CT stuff. My first car ran mid 10's and another was high 9's. The 10 second car had a 6 point cage in it but the 9 car was 10 point.

 

[RemCharger]

Instead of using the Car Tool connectors.....it depends on how fast you are going. The 2x2 square tube is very effective and even more so if you cut slots in the rear floor boards. I didn't have to do that on mine but opened up the front portion of the rear frame rails, and cut a couple of holes in the sides to do rosette welds on the tubes that were slid in and welded where the square tube was against the floors. I used 1/8" sq tube....iirc, the car tool connectors are 1/16". Maybe someone will respond to how thick the CT's are. I've had a couple of fast drag cars done without the CT stuff. My first car ran mid 10's and another was high 9's. The 10 second car had a 6 point cage in it but the 9 car was 10 point.

Have to agree. We went with 1/8 wall 2x3 cut in the floors, all the way through the rear frame to the relocated spring pocket. Now I like the idea of Birdsong's, going through the trans x member to the front rail..

 

[70chall440]

Subframe connectors are nice and I would say if you are building a sub 10 second car that you are actually going to race then you absolutely need them (and a cage). Likewise a street car can benefit from chassis stiffening significantly as it will handle much better BUT a lot of very fast street cars have been built without any chassis stiffening at all. Back in the day I didn't even know what a subframe connector was and I was running a pretty hot 440 6 pack in a 74 Challenger. I never broke any windshields or any of the crap.

I stiffen the crap out the cars I build now but mainly because I want them to handle. The "chassis armor" is completely bullshit and I suspect as it relates to the real video is the result of having a rusted out car and not being in the US to get repair parts. Also putting the coil over front end is going to require quite a bit more "armor" as the inner fenders were never designed to take the weight of the front end.

I agree, the answer to a question that was never asked.

 

[JR_Charger]

Back in the day I didn't even know what a subframe connector was and I was running a pretty hot 440 6 pack in a 74 Challenger.

That's not a B-body. I've only heard of the window cracking problem in B-bodies. I suppose enough power will turn anything into a twizzler.

It'd be nice if the chassis stiffening stuff came in carbon fiber.

 

[70chall440]

That's not a B-body. I've only heard of the window cracking problem in B-bodies. I suppose enough power will turn anything into a twizzler.

It'd be nice if the chassis stiffening stuff came in carbon fiber.

Yeah I am pretty aware that a Challenger is not a B body having owned like 9 of them as well and at least an equal amount of B bodies. My point is that neither of them are prone to breaking the windshield due to body flex on a street car. Now maybe with big HP, slicks and a sticky track...