Chassis setup

[bobtile]

I'm having 60ft. Issues and most is probably the converter, but I needed to replace the 30+ year old Konis and springs.
The springs were 140 lbs. I installed viking crusader shocks and 110 lb. Springs. I corner scaled the car. With the old setup, I was 220lbs. lighter on the passenger rear.
I got that down to 116 lbs lighter by adjusting the springs.
How far do I go?
Just looking for a starting point. I know torque plays into it too.
I'm going try to find a video of launch.
It's not great, but it's something.
Not sure if you'll see the link I posted.

 

[dvw]

Bob are these weights with you in the car? Your car is ladder bar correct? If you don't know the fully extended and compressed lengths of the shocks do that before installing a spring. Set the spring perches so they just touch the spring with the shocks off the car. Now measure the eye to eye length race ready driver weight, fuel etc. They should be 50-65% compressed. If so now set the rear wheel weights by adding pre load to the right rear bar. Making the adjuster longer will add preload. Shouldn't take much. Usually 3-5 flats on the adjuster. Check the pinion angle when your done 1.5 degrees is plenty. If you run into a problem with this, stop and ask.
Doug

 

[bobtile]

Thank you Doug.
Car is a 4 link. Weight is race ready with me in the car.
Compressed shock is 13-5/8
Extended is 19-1/8
I have ride height at 16".
I'll check pinion angle when I think I'm set.

 

[dvw]

Again these measurements are all done with drivers weight and fuel load. Ok, then the only difference would be: As long as the axle housing is already square in the car set the pinion angle first by adjusting both upper bars the same amount. Preload at this point should be zero. You should be able to remove the right upper bar bolts with no bind. Then on the scales set the preload with the right upper bar by shortening it. That will transfer the weight from the left rear to the right rear.
Doug

 

[BanginGears]

^^^^wow^^^^ Doug comes thru again!

 

[bobtile]

The rear is now pretty close. But as I expected, the fronts are off by about 150 lbs.
Should I be trying to get the best possible balance between all 4 corners with the right bar or am I aiming for something else?
It's not a very good feeling not knowing what you're doing.

 

[dvw]

Don't worry about the front. Unless the driver sets in the center this is normal.
Doug

 

[bobtile]

Don't worry about the front. Unless the driver sets in the center this is normal.
Doug

Pinion angle is at 1.5 but now the ride height is 1-1/8" higher on passenger rear

 

[33 IMP]

Pinion angle is at 1.5 but now the ride height is 1-1/8" higher on passenger rear

I have seen worse on ss spring cars. If it goes straight...fly it.

 

[dvw]

Remember you are compensating for left side driver weight and engine rotational torque. Your car is 150lbs lighter on the right side. That's why both my batteries were in the right rear. Mine is higher right rear as well. It will also go dead straight for 100ft with the wheels in the air. You can experiment and remove a flat of preload at a time to lower the right rear. If the car still leaves straight you can keep sneaking up on it. You can also ad preload with the left torsion bar. This will level the car. But be careful using this method. Once the wheels are in the air any preload added from the torsion bar is gone. When you remove preload the diagonal weights will shift from LF/RR to RF/LR. the opposite will occur when you add preload. All this being said Preload gets you going straight and ensures close to equal traction with both rear tires. The "Bite" part of the equation comes with bars angles and shock adjustment. But that's another story. My biggest single improvement in 60ft ended up not even being suspension related. It was carb related.
Doug

 

[bobtile]

Remember you are compensating for left side driver weight and engine rotational torque. Your car is 150lbs lighter on the right side. That's why both my batteries were in the right rear. Mine is higher right rear as well. It will also go dead straight for 100ft with the wheels in the air. You can experiment and remove a flat of preload at a time to lower the right rear. If the car still leaves straight you can keep sneaking up on it. You can also ad preload with the left torsion bar. This will level the car. But be careful using this method. Once the wheels are in the air any preload added from the torsion bar is gone. When you remove preload the diagonal weights will shift from LF/RR to RF/LR. the opposite will occur when you add preload. All this being said Preload gets you going straight and ensures close to equal traction with both rear tires. The "Bite" part of the equation comes with bars angles and shock adjustment. But that's another story. My biggest single improvement in 60ft ended up not even being suspension related. It was carb related.
Doug

Thank you for your time Doug.
I really appreciate it.

 

[bobtile]

I got the weight pretty much where I wanted in back.
I made an adjustment to front right and got the ride height pretty close.
My pinion angle is 2.4.
I have 1.7 on driveshaft and 0.7 down on rear.
Hopefully that's OK because that was a struggle for me to get there.

 

[bobtile]

Ok, I'm not flipping the picture

 

[dvw]

2.4 wont kill it. What is the angle between the trans and driveshaft?
Doug

 

[bobtile]

2.4 wont kill it. What is the angle between the trans and driveshaft?
Doug

1.7
But I'm getting a better Guage to check everything

 

[dvw]

Use the u joint cap on the yoke itself for the trans angle. Rotate the shaft until its 90 degrees to the ground. If its not it will effect a digital level. This is what I use.
https://www.sears.com/craftsman-digital-torpedo-level/p-00948295000P
Doug