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Checking specs on Upgrade

stanz

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I have a 68 RR and I have been having some electrical issues, overcharging , amp pegs when reving up rpms, when setting at idle it just stops running but start back up instantly? checked System can someone tell me if this looks ok. upgrade to electronic ignition kit 60 amp square back alternator.

Ignition Off Ignition On Engine Running

Battery 12.4 Battery 12.2 Battery 13.2

Alternator 12.4 Alternator 11.7 Alternator 15.0

Blue wire 0 Blue wire 10.5 Blue wire 11.5

Green wire 0 Green wire .5 Green wire .6
 
Hey guys sorry for the lines thats missing not too good at this digital world !!!!!
 
Same car here Electronic ign but not a 60 amp alt. The green wire is your feild controll from the regulator to the alt. You only have .5 volts coming out is not correct. Mine is about 8 volts running and 7.5 key on engine off. Sounds like the regulator is funky. Autozone has them fairly cheap and they are solid state. All the other readings are fairly close to mine but the battery seems a bit low with everything off. Charge the battery and put a regulator on it. If you have a way to check amp output of the alt like an amp clamp or a Battery/ charging system tester like a Sun VAT 60 check to verify the system. Most Auto shops have them if you dont.

IMG_1452.JPG
 
Will see if I can find the part # for the regulator. It is made in China but whats not these days. Duralast VR 706. It was like $20 IIRC. Do this first then if you still have an issue we can do more diag. One more thing is to do the Amp gauge Bypass. Lots of threads here for that. If it is the original Bulkhead and harness you are playing with Fire literally.
 
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It appears as though you have a significant drop through the bulkhead connector as well.
Take it apart and check the heavier gauge wires from the alternator and to the starter relay stud.
You may have a similar problem in the run circuit contributing to the stall condition at idle.
 
You may want to up-size the alternator output wire also.
Mike
 
Both Don and Mike have good suggestions. It was late and My brain was a bit foggy. You for sure have some issues in the bulkhead with a voltage drop. It is also a good idea like mike said to up the charge wire size and to go directly to the battery with it. Like said lots of threads here. If Nacho chimes in listen to his advice also.
 
Thanks, I pulled the new electronic
wiring harness plug which was not clipped on one side and found theee blue wire connector was not making a good connection, will charge the battery and run a couple of test. Hope my amp gauge is working right
 
Could it be possible to have the blue and green wire swapped wrong? I am still getting the same voltage on the .5 out of the green wire in the on but not running position, this is a upgraded wiring harness from AMSNOS Obsolete and dont really want to tear it up and then try to get another one. Also replaced the VR with an adjustable one on Ebay QS8313 A Heavy Duty ADJUSTABLE VOLTAGE REGULATOR for JEEP, DODGE, CHRYSLER
 
I was curious about this adjustable VR so I did some research. Youtube has a pretty good tutorial on the operation and install of this unit. Lookup alternatorman. Seems like overkill for a simple system and is used on newer computor controlled Mopars. If it was Me I would Shitcan that thing and start from square one with a plain old Known Good or new VR. Unplug the one you have and see what your gauge dose. The alt should not charge at all. If it dose you have other issues internal in the alt like a 1 wire alt that is internally regulated. Pics would help.
 
how do you test a VR before installing it on car?
 
Never tried it. On car Ign voltage from blue wire in and about 8v out from the field to excite the alt field is all I know. I am sure there is a resistance or capacitor test but I dont have specs.
The guy on youtube has many vids and seems to know his ****. If you go to his Ebay site he has a help line, Dont know if you have to buy his product or not. He is probably an engineer, way above my pay grade. One point he did stress was the VR needs to be dedicated grounded to the alt case.
 
Looked up testing the VR on the bench. You will need a variable power supply, DVOM and a test lite.
 
Well finally got it to start think it was the plug on the bulkhead connector blue wire but still amp gauge still pegging out at high RPM's gonna take it on a short cruise later
 
If you were cranking it a bunch and the battery is low, then yes it will charge high for a little while but should back down when the battery gets saturated.
 
I have new VR and now getting 1.15 volts at green wire on engine not running, but when running voltage goes up to almost 8.5 volts when I raise the engine RPMs, is this suppose to happen like this or could it be something else?
 
how do you tell which alternator wire goes between the blue and the green and what would be the outcome if connected backwards
 
voltage drops then engine dies but starts right back up runs for a while then dies again
 
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