Chrysler six-pack fully functional automatic choke-cold intake, Electric six-pack choke

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

There has been some recent renewed interest in a modification I did years ago to incorporate an electrically heat assisted six-pack divorced choke using components from later Chrysler carburetor choke systems. Allows for a fully functional six-pack automatic choke while running a cold intake. Blocked cross-overs or for whatever reason little to no exhaust heat redirected up through to the choke well as originally designed. Here is some detailed info in a video format that covers this mod. A modification that continues to serve my needs many years later without issues.

Past threads on this subject usually triggers quite a bit of debate about “why do you need a choke at all”. Not looking to start a debate thread on the purpose or need for having a functional choke vs. not.

 

[SlinktRR]

This is great thank you and great timing. I just installed six pack induction today it runs good, will be starting to tune it on the road this weekend but I don't have the choke hooked up since no crossover. Would like to have a functional choke; in the video its not clear what parts need to be ordered. Do you use a reproduction 6 pack choke as a starting point and then add 12v heater? My car is not a restoration, using '71 carbs on a 70RR with 6AN fuel lines and TF240 heads. My first 6 pack and loving it, idles pretty nicely but would likely be better with a choke from cold start.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Click "Watch on Youtube" in the video, check the comments, I answered a comment about specific parts needed the other day. Yes, you will need a six-pack divorced choke to begin with and a later ('73 and up) heated divorced choke spring.

"The six-pack divorced choke looks to be still available from Mancini Racing if you don’t have the original. The MP number is P4529185. I see them on eBay once in a while. Pretty sure MP discontinued them some time ago. The later heated divorced chokes are all over eBay NOS and used, Chrysler, Carter, or third party branded, some NOS pretty cheap. If used, appearance won’t matter, the useable parts will be out of sight, just need the heating element to function. The application does not matter as long as the wire exits the top. Could be late seventies 2bbl v8s of some kind, some numbers to look for 4095340, 4041834. The later Thermoquad chokes tend to be more expensive."

 

[SlinktRR]

My stock divorced choke sort of works, it does open just not fully. Need to look at your solution. Ran into issues during idle setup, I didn't realize when you adjust the center carb throttle opening it affects the closure of the rear carb (opens slightly because of the mechanical linkage movement). I thought I had a vacuum leak but it was the rear opening slightly from adjusting the center thus pouring some gas from the boosters into the back of the intake. Causes white smoke and can't get RPM under 1000. Had to rotate the rear carb rod one full turn longer and the butterflies were then closed. Next is part throttle tune.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

My stock divorced choke sort of works, it does open just not fully. Need to look at your solution. Ran into issues during idle setup, I didn't realize when you adjust the center carb throttle opening it affects the closure of the rear carb (opens slightly because of the mechanical linkage movement). I thought I had a vacuum leak but it was the rear opening slightly from adjusting the center thus pouring some gas from the boosters into the back of the intake. Causes white smoke and can't get RPM under 1000. Had to rotate the rear carb rod one full turn longer and the butterflies were then closed. Next is part throttle tune.

You are describing the outboard closure linkage/rods. Yes, need to set the center carb curb idle, or with an idle solenoid low curb idle, with the rods disconnected first. BTW, when disconnecting the rods, disconnect the vacuum hose that opens the outboards as well. Never run the motor with the rods disconnected and the vacuum line connected, disaster awaits if you do.

 

[tallhair]

You are describing the outboard closure linkage/rods. Yes, need to set the center carb curb idle, or with an idle solenoid low curb idle, with the rods disconnected first. BTW, when disconnecting the rods, disconnect the vacuum hose that opens the outboards as well. Never run the motor with the rods disconnected and the vacuum line connected, disaster awaits if you do.

Please detail this disaster

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Really? Should the motor be revved with the outboard rods disconnected high enough to open the outboards via the vacuum signal there will be nothing to close them mechanically quickly. There is potential for an unloaded out of control full throttle event, "engine damage may result".