Clutch Fork Replacement.

[TallGuy71]

HI everybody, long time reader and first time poster here. My family is the proud new owner of a 71 440+6, 4 Speed RR. Upon the first drive into town to register the vehicle my Father experienced major clutch slippage in all gears. My first diagnosis was that the fork rod may be adjusted incorrectly. I got under the car and noticed some sketchy things right off the bat. the eye of the fork rod wasn't on the factory "nubbin", and had been installed in one of the other holes using spacers. there was a 2 foot return spring being used connecting not the clutch fork, but the z-bar all the way to the bottom of the power steering pump. I moved the adjustment nut to push back the fork a slight bit, got back in the car and the pedal worked great for a couple pushes and then completely shot to the floor. The adjustment bolt had been completely stripped and shot to the front of the fork rod. So now I'm obviously going to replace the whole thing. I ordered the replacement parts for a 71 BB but i have a few questions. Is it normal for the fork rod no not be in a straight line or will it be at an angle when connecting to the Z-Bar? It seems that the small block Fork Rod has an angled eyelet that would make this geometry correct, but the BB fork rod is straight. I noticed they had the adjustment nut on backwards from what the manual says, if installed properly to you think the fork rod will go back far enough to actually fit onto the nubbin? If anyone has any photos or videos on how to properly adjust the new one once i get it in, that would be a huge help. I still don't know if this is what was causing the clutch to fix, but since it broke, I'll have to take care of this before I do anything else. Thank you so much for your time.

 

[Krooser]

Call Brewer's in Ohio... 4 speed specialists they will have what you need

 

[gkent]

a) the nut is installed backwards
b) get rid of that spring. The correct spring should attach in that little notch in the fork itself - this will keep things snug and will also pull back the fork - not just the linkage.
c) a proper shorter spring will attach to the bellhousing
d) the fork does sit at a downward angle
e) the rod should NOT be bolted to the z-bar, it should be attached at the stud you see and retained with a special spring clip. When properly attached it will allow the rod some freedom to move as everything else moves in their respective directions.
f) that black rubber grommet on the ball stud is pushed too far on, it should be just behind the ball - to keep **** out of the z-bar !

Adjustment ... once all correct parts are installed a 1/8 " gap at the rod and fork is just about right. This should yield about 1" of free pedal travel.

The rod usually has a bend - depending on year/model maybe. I suppose you could do that in a vise - don't bugger up the threads !!.

 

[Sinitro]

Double check the Z-Bar...
Mopar had multiple versions that were the same width but the tab that pushes the rod to the fork was positioned differently. The rod should be parallel to the bell housing to provide straight and proper leverage of the fork...

Just my $0.02..

 

[dadsbee]

Nut is backwards and the wrong style nut.

Fork is wrong, it should have a slight bend on the slotted end, plastic washer and a clip to hold it on the boss. Bolt needs to go and like Stan said... spring is wrong as well.