Clutch Fork

[paul1969cars]

I just put the tranny back in car and connected everything
When I fully press down the clutch I hear a grinding sound
I had to loosen the adjustment on the linkage at the fork
Then it was fine but not the clutch pedal is a little lazy coming back up
The clutch fork and linkage to the z-bar seems not aligned exactly. I think I may have too short of a clutch fork
I have stock setup. 383 4spd and cast iron bell housing
The linkage at the z bar is not exactly flush but comes in at an angle and the clip to hold it together doesn’t look flush installed.
What length should the correct Borg and beck big block clutch fork measure from tip to tip
I'm thinking I have the wrong fork
As you can see in this picture, it seems if the fork was a little longer it will be parallel and then all should work better
If I tighten the adjustment nut on the linkage the pedal springs back up nicely but then when you push the clutch all the way down I hear the grinding

And I assume I can replace the fork if its wrong without removing the tranny from the car? dont know if there is a trick for the springs on the throw out bearing. top one looks difficult to get to

 

[Richard Cranium]

I just put the tranny back in car and connected everything
When I fully press down the clutch I hear a grinding sound
I had to loosen the adjustment on the linkage at the fork
Then it was fine but not the clutch pedal is a little lazy coming back up
The clutch fork and linkage to the z-bar seems not aligned exactly. I think I may have too short of a clutch fork
I have stock setup. 383 4spd and cast iron bell housing
The linkage at the z bar is not exactly flush but comes in at an angle and the clip to hold it together doesn’t look flush installed.
What length should the correct Borg and beck big block clutch fork measure from tip to tip
I'm thinking I have the wrong fork
As you can see in this picture, it seems if the fork was a little longer it will be parallel and then all should work better
If I tighten the adjustment nut on the linkage the pedal springs back up nicely but then when you push the clutch all the way down I hear the grinding

And I assume I can replace the fork if its wrong without removing the tranny from the car? dont know if there is a trick for the springs on the throw out bearing. top one looks difficult to get to


View attachment 1977688

Don't know about your grinding noise, but the adjustment rod should have a slight offset bend in it so the flat portion aligns with the Z-bar. Take it off, put it in a vice and give it a light bend.

 

[AR67GTX]

The rod should have a slight bend to it and look more like this. Ignore my return spring - it was hooked up wrong at the front. It would be quite a trick to replace a fork without removing the transmission but maybe with a little luck. I suspect your fork is OK. The soft pedal return is probably from using a diaphragm clutch with the over-center spring still in place under the dash. Sometimes that works OK and sometimes it doesn’t.

 

[paul1969cars]

Thanks

Something is off for sure

 

[Daves69]

Something is off for sure

So, which clutch is it? Stock is B&B I do believe.

I have stock setup.

Your symptoms seem to suggest diaphragm.


I believe Brewers lists the fork lengths.........

Select by Category - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission & Component Specialists

www.brewersperformance.com

 

[Bird 426]

Fork should be around 10 7/8" long. Is your pressure plate a 3-finger Borg &Beck or a diaphragm? If it's a diaphragm, you need to remove the overcenter spring. Diaphragm pressure plate will make noise if pushed in too far. Yes, you can remove the fork without pulling the trans. Is this a project car that you haven't had together yet?

 

[paul1969cars]

Its a borg and beck clutch with original overspring under dash

Car is completely together now

 

[Bird 426]

Okay, that answers part of the question.

 

[Daves69]

Its a borg and beck clutch with original overspring under dash

You might try some of this.....
Remove the bell cover.
Set up a camera and make a video the motion of the bell crank, adjust linkage, and fork.
Watch the video for any motion that can possibly cause need for excessive adjustment for peddle return.
(misaligned bell crank, bell crank bushings worn or broke, bell crank spring retainer issue, worn bell crank pivot ends, engine or trans mounts, etc.)

Remove the adjustment rod and fork spring.

Verify the fork pivot is not bent, loose, or cracked and the fork spring holds the fork tight to the pivot.
Verify the fork is on both the release bearing pads and both spring clips are in the fork tip cups.
Determine if the release bearing contacts all three fingers ideally at the same time and not cocking.