Cold Air Intake Setup

[Don Frelier]

I cut 4" holes In the core support. I connected the hose with 4" sanitary tubing with a tri-clamp flange.
It's just a driver car or I wouldn't have done it that way.
Now I have a single plane so I'll be doing something similar to what @TN Mopar has

 

[Turboomni]

I'm sure it works great. I would like to find a way without cutting like the Oldsmobile with them under the front bumpers.

 

[biomedtechguy]

I love the looks of the 70 Air Grabber so much I bought the hood from Stephen's Performance for my non N96 Roadrunner which cost less than having it paint matched.
I'm convinced though that I will get far better performance by using a taller oval air filter for my 6bbl. I may wind up with a hybrid A12/N96 setup, but I'm trying to keep the Air Grabber.
If my future intake choices or nitrous plate requires it, I may have to go to the A12 6bbl hood scoop.

 

[HawkRod]

I love the looks of the 70 Air Grabber so much I bought the hood from Stephen's Performance for my non N96 Roadrunner which cost less than having it paint matched.
I'm convinced though that I will get far better performance by using a taller oval air filter for my 6bbl. I may wind up with a hybrid A12/N96 setup, but I'm trying to keep the Air Grabber.
If my future intake choices or nitrous plate requires it, I may have to go to the A12 6bbl hood scoop.

I have a 70 Air Grabber Road Runner. I think it is one of the coolest designs ever: a functional air scoop that you can close when it rains or if it is too cold. It just looks awesome! I have a throttle body fuel injection system, and it measures inlet air temperatures. In the summer, it will easily run into the high 120s or even 130* when the scoop is closed, but once I open the scoop the air will become about a degree or two above ambient.

Having said that wonderful stuff, there is wind tunnel proof that the Air Grabber scoop does not sit high enough to provide any ram effect; where it sits is in a low pressure area. It would need to be a few inches higher to get a ram air effect. As already mentioned, cowl is a high pressure area that works well, as is the headlight/grill area.

 

[biomedtechguy]

there is wind tunnel proof that the Air Grabber scoop does not sit high enough to provide any ram effect; where it sits is in a low pressure area.

I'm ok with just the cooler air, especially being in South Louisiana, and typically driving along the Gulf Coast, that alone is a good thing.
I'm thinking it's possible that not having a "ram air" effect may also prevent some of the higher speed issues that have a negative impact on carburetor performance, referring to the issues that can develop from too high a volume or speed of air striking the air horn(s) and creating weird issues.
Regardless, I LOVE the look of the 70 Air Grabber, it gives a cooler air charge than under hood air, and if it isn't detrimental to performance, I'll keep mine as long as it physically fits my application.

 

[biomedtechguy]

It just looks awesome!

YES! Yes it does...

 

[TN Mopar]

With the carb spacer my air cleaner sits about 2 inches up in the air stream
it provided a noticeable but not huge change on my AFR gauge
which is good because I was a touch fat
but I took the change to mean I did the right thing with the scoop
Before the scoop I had to run a 2 inch filter to clear the hood
and I always wondered if I was choking my air flow out
I am glad I finally did this

 

[biomedtechguy]

There's a regularly manufactured oval 6bbl air filter K&N makes for the Mopar oval air cleaner that is about 1½" taller IIRC than the paper one, and K&N has a special order oval filter that's even taller. Significantly more air flow, measured in real numbers, and definitely a factor for a hot 440 or stroker. Depending on how high the Indy ModMan intake puts me relative to my AMD N96 hood, and there's the possibility of me adding the appx ½" Nitrous Express spray plate between the center carb and intake (and 2 spacers under the other 2 to make them level, or 2 spray plates under the outboard carbs and a spacer under the center) I may well be faced with the same dilemma as before: Have the raised section of my hood custom built into a taller version and incorporate the N96 Air Grabber, or just go with the aftermarket (slightly taller) A12 lift off hood style air scoop, and know it all fits, costs less, and possibility functions better. I avoid driving in the rain whenever possible, I have A12 filter base, foam hood seal, and fiberglass air cleaner cover, all "new" in a box, or maybe take advantage of the drop built into my 70 6bbl base and make a hybrid A12 setup.
I LOVE the Air Grabber enough to have spent the money on the hood and even more to have it paint matched, and I have the N96 clamshell and some other components too, but before I buy the rest, I have to see where I wind up once the 572 is in place.
If I have to toss the Air Grabber, and my intake height becomes flexible, I'd be really tempted to try a 440-25 cross ram intake but with a 6bbl top. Then again, by the time I pay for everything that is going to cost me, I may be happy to be able to buy fuel for it. Lol.

 

[AMX364]

Well my problem is that I had a 70 Barracuda 383-4 with a Hemi Air Grabber hood. The scoop was attached to the hood and used a "bathtub" sealing base. Was this stock? Well I never knew or cared. It did take the standard Hemi, 6-pack air filter and the filters lasted about a year each. So for my 65 Coronet, got the reproduction 69 Air Grabber base and painted steel cover along with the KN E3840 3 inch tall air filter. Will still order the steel base plate ring to seal to the stock hood with a 65 Hemi hood scoop. This has NOT been cheap, final will be closer to 2000 total for the air cleaner setup. However I know that this system does work.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Well my problem is that I had a 70 Barracuda 383-4 with a Hemi Air Grabber hood. The scoop was attached to the hood and used a "bathtub" sealing base. Was this stock? Well I never knew or cared. It did take the standard Hemi, 6-pack air filter and the filters lasted about a year each. So for my 65 Coronet, got the reproduction 69 Air Grabber base and painted steel cover along with the KN E3840 3 inch tall air filter. Will still order the steel base plate ring to seal to the stock hood with a 65 Hemi hood scoop. This has NOT been cheap, final will be closer to 2000 total for the air cleaner setup. However I know that this system does work.

View attachment 1234572

GREAT post! I have to find where I saved the 2 K&N oval filter part numbers, one is a "regularly produced" filter and taller than the stock paper filter, but the guy who referenced that filter also said they have a "special order" filter that is even taller. The one you listed I believe is the "regularly produced" one, taller than stock.
When I find the data I'll post it here, but you have already made the point. That filter and oval top and base are GREAT performers!

 

[Lowhound]

Im currently tinkering with routing my air duct on a cold air box. I want to use the existing inner fender holes where the upper control arms are assessed if possible because I didn't want to cut any new holes anywhere. From there I'm routing my duct forward & will terminate inside my front valance beside my turn signals. I originally tried using some polished 3 inch hard pipe but it looked like $h-t so I found some flexible duct that retains it's shape & doesn't tear.

 

[INTMD8]

View attachment 1070306
Wish the factory would have optioned this for the Hemi.
My friends Thunderbolt has a simple and very effective CAI.
The top picture was for NASCAR. Mine is the middle.

Also, does anyone know if the above was actually something factory? I see it was said "one of 85 Nascar program" cars but no other info

 

[Jeff Peterson]

NASCAR had one carb

 

[Photon440]

Also, does anyone know if the above was actually something factory? I see it was said "one of 85 Nascar program" cars but no other info

I'd think it was modified by the car team. Richard Petty's Superbird had this for induction: (also note the lack of inner fenders).

 

[threewood]

A cooler intake air charge will never be worse than hot engine compartment air. A six pack hood make it easier to get that outside air. My fabbed air filter pan.

 

[Drop Top GTX]

In an effort to introduce ambient air, many designs create dramatically higher pressure drop and the result is degraded performance rather than any actual benefit.

The air cleaner lids with media incorporated are almost always a significant drawback. The booster signal is degraded and negative pressure can actually vacuum the venturi. We receive many questions regarding a wet underside of a lid such as this. Avoid these products.

We design and test intake components and systems such as these on a regular basis and have done so for almost thirty years.

In terms of an actual reduction in air temperature at the intake, there is little to be realized. We designed a lab intake system that utilizes heaters beneath the intake tubes/ducts. Temperature below the tube can reach 200-300 degrees or more. We measure the temp at the inlet and then again at the carburetor or throttle body.

Simulating performance driving ( significant throttle opening) it's virtually impossible to measurably raise the intake air temperature using this dramatic amount of heat that is applied. Air velocity is simply too high.

We also measure the amount of air vehicles realize entering the engine compartment from the grille and from below the front end. This is a significant amount of outside vehicle, ambient temperature air and it rapidly replaces whatever air has been heated underhood during stops and very low speed driving.

Windshield area intake ducts normally don't offer much benefit simply because of the speed required to take advantage of this potentially high pressure area.

An eleven or twelve second car operates for only a very short time in an area of higher pressure at the windshield base.

Chrysler engineers once published information regarding effective air inlet/scoop sizing.

 

[66/440]

Mid '70's C bodies and '80's Trucks have a plastic flange mounted on the core support and ducted to the air cleaner. Front of the core support is a high pressure area so plenty of air flow. Lots of parts in the salvage yards including the air cleaners. Two air cleaner snorkels tack welded or flanged and screwed to a 2 1/2 - 3" air cleaner (filter thickness) make a great low buck fresh air intake. Don't forget to take the inlet hoses when your at the yard. Hole in core support only needs to be as large as you want to make it.

 

[INTMD8]

In terms of an actual reduction in air temperature at the intake, there is little to be realized.

Simulating performance driving ( significant throttle opening) it's virtually impossible to measurably raise the intake air temperature using this dramatic amount of heat that is applied. Air velocity is simply too high.

With stock configuration Hemi chrome dome (and EFI) I'm logging intake air temperature at 50-60 degrees over ambient which drops 5-7 degrees in a quarter mile WOT. It's ingesting a ton of air that's passed through the radiator of course.

Will find out soon enough what the difference is after ducting it to the cowl plenum but I would imagine it will be significant.

 

[sam dupont]

Im currently tinkering with routing my air duct on a cold air box. I want to use the existing inner fender holes where the upper control arms are assessed if possible because I didn't want to cut any new holes anywhere. From there I'm routing my duct forward & will terminate inside my front valance beside my turn signals. I originally tried using some polished 3 inch hard pipe but it looked like $h-t so I found some flexible duct that retains it's shape & doesn't tear.

View attachment 1318809

You might find a heating duct 90 about the size of that hole. A Mouse Screen might be a good idea too

 

[Tony Tee]

Heres my 78 magnum with dual fresh air ducts.