Constant project

1971 - 1974 Mopars

  1. Lowe.n.behold

    Lowe.n.behold Active Member

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    Well I got it running good but still see issues w carb. I found out I will be having surgery on the 9th so I'll be out. But 2 things real quick what would make my rachet get fuzzy(electical) while unscrewing spark plug only noticed it on 3rd back on passenger side. Realized trickel charger was on but why would that make engine hot? Also what is good radiator to get. I've seen 2,3,n 4 row. Motor isn't insane but the original small one is just not cutting it.
     
  2. #41

    #41 Well-Known Member

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    Fantastic that it is running. A carb cleaning may be due. Don't be wary of it - it is quite simple on those.

    Not sure your question on the trickle charger, but before you go and spend dough on a new radiator maybe try installing a fan shroud. It makes a radiator a lot more efficient. How wide is your current radiator? 22 or 26 inches?
     
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    • Lowe.n.behold

      Lowe.n.behold Active Member

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      16125591236751840430512755232310.jpg 16125591910298382947614107270108.jpg
       
    • #41

      #41 Well-Known Member

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      The fan is too far from the radiator to function properly. It'll be drawing a lot of air from around the radiator and only a small portion through it. You need a fan spacer to get it closer to the radiator (requiring longer bolts too). A shroud would also help a lot. It also looks like you have the 22" radiator, which is common in small block cars without AC and it could work ok if you take care of the fan and the radiator is in decent shape. As it is right now, you could upsize the radiator to a monstrous size and it will still run hot when not moving due to the fan situation.

      Cheapest solution is to add a fan spacer and see what happens. That might do it. Get the fan within and inch of the radiator or so. I'd still add a shroud for extra cooling on hot days. It's good to have reserve capacity when it comes to cooling.

      Next solution: Get a new repro 26 inch radiator, matching repro shroud, and address the fan spacer (my choice)

      Alternatively you could spring for some aftermarket aluminum radiator set-ups, electric fans, etc.

      Good luck with your shoulder.
       
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      • JDmac72chrgr

        JDmac72chrgr Well-Known Member

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        That radiator doesnt look right: looks too small: both "318" (360 ci build-up to about 390hp now in project) cars that I have the radiators are wider, fins all the way across. See pics; Hope you are not over heating? Is that radiator from a body or is it a 225 radiator?
        Hope your surgery went well & speedy recovery!!

        20210209_120958.jpg 20210209_120954.jpg
         
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        • Don Frelier

          Don Frelier FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          My 66 383 came with a 22 inch radiator and a fairly small 4 blade fan.
          It doesn't necessarily need a 26 inch radiator. But the core does need to have flow throughout.
           
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          • MoparLeo

            MoparLeo NRA PATRON LEVEL LIFE MEMBER FBBO Gold Member

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            Just a couple of suggestions.
            1. First is safety. Do any carb or fuel system related repair outside in the open. Never in the garage or inside. Fuel system fires are more common than you think and it is not worth losing your house for.
            2. Always have the proper rated fire extinguisher handy . At the very least, a bucket of water and a few towels will work in a pinch. Leave the towels in the bucket of water and then you can just throw a towel over the engine in case of a fire.
            3. Never spray anything that is flammable on a running engine. This is inviting a disaster. A spray bottle with water will work just as well. You are , looking for a vacuum leak and water will do just as well. If you had a leak, the water would cause the rpms to go down. Same effect as carb spray that makes the rpms go up. Just looking for a change.
            4. Do as suggested above and download the proper Factory Service Manual for your car. It has all the basic information on all aspects of maintaining your car. It has sections for Basic maintenance, fuel systems, engines, brakes, suspension, exhaust, body, etc...
            Read the section that applies to your question completely. Read it again, each time you do you will retain a little more of it.
            5. Have a clean , organized work area. Have the tools that you will need handy. Have a helper with you or safety and assistance. 4 eyes and hands are better than 2.
            6. Always buy the best quality parts you can find. Quality makes a difference.
             
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            • Charles Cook

              Charles Cook FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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              Spacer will help.
               
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              • Charles Cook

                Charles Cook FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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              • Lowe.n.behold

                Lowe.n.behold Active Member

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                Thank you all... I appreciate it. I think I have a spacer. If not it's cheap and easy. I bought a larger champion radiator. What is typical space between fan and radiator. So I went on YouTube to clean windows washer Reservoir and nothing. Detergent and bleach did nothing but ruin my black clothes..


                Surgery went well so im told now just recovering. While I stare at an ever growing stack of parts. Like the Christmas we all dream of... if I get cleared Monday to work on car w left arm then I'm back in business.. all up to DR and the boss...
                 
                Last edited: Feb 20, 2021
              • Charles Cook

                Charles Cook FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                • Lowe.n.behold

                  Lowe.n.behold Active Member

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                  Ok so with the new radiator I have 1 3/4" between fan and radiator. What is the typical spacing? I put the fan w clutch on there. The old one was all messed up and was just bolted straight to 2" spacer.

                  20210220_204309.jpg
                   
                • #41

                  #41 Well-Known Member

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                  It might be ok because it is so cool in the PNW. Ran as-is and watch the temps. Defintely a big improvement over what you had! I would still add a shroud too for that occasional hot summer day / stuck in traffic scenario.
                   
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                  • Montclaire

                    Montclaire Well-Known Member

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                    Disconnect the vacuum advance for right now and hook up a vacuum gauge to manifold vac. Adjust the distributor until you get the strongest vac signal and lock it down - you don't want to leave it there long term but it will smooth out the idle. You shouldn't have any surging at this point unless the carb is screwed or you have a vac leak.

                    Do you have a tuning kit for that carb? Assuming it's not gummed up my first guess would be that the metering rod springs are too stiff. The rods won't settle out and you'll keep chasing the idle. Match the springs to the vacuum reading (I believe the rule of thumb is half).

                    Turn the AF screws in one at a time and back them off to find the highest vac reading at the leanest setting. Get both trimmed and then fatten them up a quarter turn each. Put your hand across the primaries - if the motor speeds up, it's still too lean.

                    It should be revving smooth now. If it's not, check your firing order. Still rough? Check the distributor internals. Coil could also be shot, bad wire, etc.

                    Now you can retard your timing a bit and get it to settle in. Hook up the advance - if it starts surging again either it has to be adjusted or, if it's not adjustable, wrong rating or has a bad diaphragm (or you have it hooked up wrong). I usually fine tune with the car in gear and the air cleaner on.

                    If none of this works you need to dig in deeper with a multimeter.
                     
                    Last edited: Mar 16, 2021
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