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Cooling Considerations

gpwood

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Hey Guys/Gals! I have a 1967 Belvedere that has a 22" core support(factory 318 at time), now has a stroked 440 to505 cubes, aluminum heads, 10.7 to 1, aluminum manifold, doing about 555 HP and 641 on torque, auto trans 727. A 26" rad will fit but passenger side of rad will be covered up by support(apx. 4" or so). Rather than modifying support or replacing, would a 22" Glenn Ray or equivalent be good enough to cool? Is there anybody running a big block with a 22" out there that can give some details on what they have. I plan on using shroud and mechanical clutch with steel or flex fan. Thanks for your comments!
 
A/C or no a/c? If no a/c, I've heard many say a quality aluminum 22" will cool what you have. But so many variables. Water pump size n blades, w/p to crank pulley ratio, coolant ratio, water Wetter, typical ambient air temps.
 
the 22" radiator came standard on a lot of 440 cars. All BB's prior to '66 used a 22" radiator.
 
I haven't finished it yet, to run, but was assured by Wizard that my engine would be cooled with the 22" they built for me. 540-765/753.
Mike

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Give Bob a call @ Glen-Ray, he will be happy to answer any questions you may have about your cooling needs..
 
I haven't finished it yet, to run, but was assured by Wizard that my engine would be cooled with the 22" they built for me. 540-765/753.
Mike

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Out of curiosity, what kinds of assurance did you receive that your engine would be cooled? Total price refund? or did they give you coolant temperatures that will be achieved? From your pix, the fans that overhang the actual core (heat exchanger) surface will not contribute to the air flow thru the core. In lieu of 4 fans, would 2 larger fans be better and consume less energy to operate? I'm sure, you've upgraded your alternator and electrical system to support the 4 fan (or 2 fan) setup and the water pump and drive sheaves to provide the highest coolant velocities and volumes as suggested by the radiator supplier....yes?
BOB RENTON
 
Out of curiosity, what kinds of assurance did you receive that your engine would be cooled? Total price refund? or did they give you coolant temperatures that will be achieved? From your pix, the fans that overhang the actual core (heat exchanger) surface will not contribute to the air flow thru the core. In lieu of 4 fans, would 2 larger fans be better and consume less energy to operate? I'm sure, you've upgraded your alternator and electrical system to support the 4 fan (or 2 fan) setup and the water pump and drive sheaves to provide the highest coolant velocities and volumes as suggested by the radiator supplier....yes?
BOB RENTON
Yes Bob. I have a 120 amp alternator and soft start for the Spal fan motors.
 
@493 Mike , just a heads up on the e-fans, I ran 2 25amp fans along w electric fuel pump, fuel injection and a/c. I had upgraded my wire from alternator to starter relay. The draw of the above electronics still melted a lot of stuff. Luckily I caught it and no fire. For my peace of mind, I went a different route. I went 2ga wire from alternator across front of block directly to battery positive and deleted the alternator to starter relay wire. Then kept the rest of the harness. I had already converted to a voltage gauge instead of ammeter. No issues at all this way. The heavy draw goes straight to the battery and Never "through" anything else. Just a thought.
 
@493 Mike , just a heads up on the e-fans, I ran 2 25amp fans along w electric fuel pump, fuel injection and a/c. I had upgraded my wire from alternator to starter relay. The draw of the above electronics still melted a lot of stuff. Luckily I caught it and no fire. For my peace of mind, I went a different route. I went 2ga wire from alternator across front of block directly to battery positive and deleted the alternator to starter relay wire. Then kept the rest of the harness. I had already converted to a voltage gauge instead of ammeter. No issues at all this way. The heavy draw goes straight to the battery and Never "through" anything else. Just a thought.
My battery is in the trunk so I ran 0 welding cable from the master cutoff switch to a bulkhead stud in the firewall. My starter goes from that stud to the starter and the alternator output will also attach there.
Mike
 
Yes Bob. I have a 120 amp alternator and soft start for the Spal fan motors.
Thanks for the info. But...to ask again, what kinds of assurance did you receive that your engine would be cooled by this radiator fan combo? Total price refund? or did they give you coolant temperatures that will be achieved? After spending mega $$$ for the set up, including the wiring mods, what IF it doesn't perform as advertised? What is your recourse? Just curious...
BOB RENTON
 
Thanks for the info. But...to ask again, what kinds of assurance did you receive that your engine would be cooled by this radiator fan combo? Total price refund? or did they give you coolant temperatures that will be achieved? After spending mega $$$ for the set up, including the wiring mods, what IF it doesn't perform as advertised? What is your recourse? Just curious...
BOB RENTON
I don't recall but, I am not concerned about it either.
Mike
 
I generally have no issue with Wizard cooling products but that 4 fan setup with no shroud is not my favorite. I'm sure it will get the job done but that has to be getting pretty darn expensive.

I also generally like the Glen Ray restoration OEM quality rads but for this motor, it's a lot to spend with the possibility it's still not enough to cool that big motor. I'm also pretty sure that an exact OEM looking radiator is not a priority for this particular situation.

The Cold Case 22" solution has a bigger core that equates to higher cooling capacity. In turn, there is no need for all those fans and that equates to less expensive setup with the same results. Member price would be around $700 complete including shipping. If interested, just shoot me a PM with
 
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