crankcase ventilation

[c3ntral_scrutiniz3r]

I am having problems with oil pushing the dipstick out of its tube, and leaking all over the place. The 440 motor in my RR has MP cast valve covers, with no breather. I think that I do not have enough crankcase ventilation.

Any comments on how to resolve this problem? Does MP have breathers for their cast covers? I am causing way too much loss of oil, and smoke from leaking all over the headers. Thanks

 

[69 Runner]

If you don't have breather(s) on your covers, that IS your problem.

 

[Giggitybit]

honestly I know a lot of people don't like PCV cause it "gets oil in the with the fuel" - but that's because of improperness - I have found on boosted cars, that they have a serious issue when pressure is on the intake side and then it bleeds into the crankcase (in addition to what is generated there) - and even then, there is always SOMEWHERE on your motor that is under vacuum. For turbo cars it's the inlet of the turbo, for an N/A car - it's the carb. So take a few tips from me - one - get a 3/8" Diameter brake line check valve - next, grab a pair of PCV valves and grommets - use one on each valve cover, and run the 3/8" line from the PCV to a "T" fitting - then run that line to a catch can (this can be as simple as a strong plastic bottle or thermos - where you put a line coming into the top and another coming out of the top) and then route the outlet hose to the PCV fitting on the carb, putting the check valve inline between catch can and carb. This ensures that no matter what, your crankcase is ALWAYS having air sucked out of it.
I have had motors where it is impossible to pull the dipstick out because of the vacuum generated.

 

[Histoy]

My '68 GTX had a breather and pcv valve on the cast covers from Mopar Performance, and I had no problems like the one you described. The breather even had the hose that ran to the non-silenced air cleaner. They're available if you check around.

 

[1badstroker]

I use a crankcase evac system on my big block. It works great and I have no problem with it. I tried the pcv system on mine and it would not work, I have to big of cam and no vacuum for it to work. Jegs sells them.

 

[snakeoil24]

honestly I know a lot of people don't like PCV cause it "gets oil in the with the fuel" - but that's because of improperness - I have found on boosted cars, that they have a serious issue when pressure is on the intake side and then it bleeds into the crankcase (in addition to what is generated there) - and even then, there is always SOMEWHERE on your motor that is under vacuum. For turbo cars it's the inlet of the turbo, for an N/A car - it's the carb. So take a few tips from me - one - get a 3/8" Diameter brake line check valve - next, grab a pair of PCV valves and grommets - use one on each valve cover, and run the 3/8" line from the PCV to a "T" fitting - then run that line to a catch can (this can be as simple as a strong plastic bottle or thermos - where you put a line coming into the top and another coming out of the top) and then route the outlet hose to the PCV fitting on the carb, putting the check valve inline between catch can and carb. This ensures that no matter what, your crankcase is ALWAYS having air sucked out of it.
I have had motors where it is impossible to pull the dipstick out because of the vacuum generated.

Too much vacuum cause problems with wrist pins oil rings and its not good to over due the vacuum issue.

 

[daredevil]

M/P sells a grommet kit and theres a knock out spot visible from the bottom if theyre the finned wrinkle or natural covers

 

[c3ntral_scrutiniz3r]

I feel like an idiot. The lack of a breather was the problem. Breather installed, car does not leak oil any longer. Thanks for the help

 

[69 Runner]

No prob. That's what we're here for.

By the way, How is your Model SQJ37 Nuclear Powered Pansexual Roto Plooker?

 

[Super Stock HEMI]

No prob. That's what we're here for.

By the way, How is your Model SQJ37 Nuclear Powered Pansexual Roto Plooker?

It MAY Be Stuck....I Know My Auxillary Motivator Float Valve Was Because The Muffler Bearing Was Exhausted....he hehe


SS

 

[Meep-Meep]

Oh no, not the auxiliary motivator float!!! You may want to check the inverted phase flyback generator or perhaps the sterling MOSFET in the pirani gauge has blown giving erroneous readings.

 

[c3ntral_scrutiniz3r]

scrutinizer postlude and 440 timing

This is the c3ntral scrutiniz3r again. Hi, its me again.... the c3ntral_scruuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuutiniz3r....

Joe has ruined his SQJ37 nuclear powered roto plooker, and he's going to pay for it. The golden shower Must have shorted out his master circuit.

MOPAR related comments:
In efforts to discover why my RR was hesitating/bogging down under medium to heavy throttle, under load, I checked timing and vacuum to see what it was at. The motor seemed to be running fine, and gave no problems with acceleration under light load (slow acceleration through the gears was ok; getting on the gas caused car to trip and stumble). Unsure of what previous owner did to car (including any engine specs, other than its a E440 w/ cast iron intake, edelbrock carb, and has headers) I dont have a lot to go by.

I checked timing with the vacuum canister hooked up initially, and saw timing at idle that appeared (no timing tape on balancer, will be corrected next weekend) to be 30 or so degrees BDC. Removed the vacuum canister hose from the front right of the carb, idle dropped a bit, and timing now appeared to be right at 5 degrees After DC. Plugged the vacuum gage into the carb port that was connected to the distributor vacuum adv, and witnessed 15" -fairly steady, but ocassionally dropping to 12". The timing did not seem right to me, so (and obviously not knowing the right way to tune these monsters) I adjusted the distributor for roughly 6 degrees BDC at idle, with vacuum line removed. When I plugged vacuum canister back into the carb, idle raised several hundred RPM. Took the car for a test ride, and it felt Much better. The stumbling under load mostly disappeared. Now, I know it is not set right where it should be - the timing tab is somewhat hard to see, and with lack of tape on the balancer, its not very scientific. I have a timing question: I see lot of reference to "total timing" which seems to be in the area of 36 degrees for a 440 motor. Can someone enlighten me on the correct way to check, and adjust for this?

I have tried manipulating the capacitive reactance of the non-ferrus cavity in the elevation sub assemble (which looks just like a Telefunken U-47) to no avail. Apparently, the inverse relationship between altitude and capacitive reactance is not a factor in total timing.

 

[Super Stock HEMI]

The BEST Way to Time your Engine is to Unhook the Vacum from the Distributor and Plug the line from the Intake Carb(Wherever the Vacum is coming from).This assures that you are Not Advancing the Distributor at any point during timing.
Then Put A Mark on the Damper where TDC is.Then you can Go 2 3/8" from that mark(If On A BB Then On The Passenger Side Go Upor Clockwise)and Put Another Line.That is 36o.
Always Set The Timing at 3000 RPM Or Higher.I Always Set It At 36oat 3600RPM(Easy To Remember that way).The other best way to do it is with an ADVANCED Timing Light.I Have a Snap-On Light With Memory,Tach,Advanced Etc.This way you set the Advance to 36o and then rev motor to 3600 and the TDC mark should be where the Light Strobes.I Dont EVER Use the PICK Up for the Plug Wire at the Plug.I Use it Close to the Distributor Cap BUT Away from the other wires.This way you wont Burn your Peter Beaters or Pick-Up.Also Alot of Pick-Ups are Directional.Make sure if there is a Pix of a Spark Plug And Arrow on it that is the direction that your Wire Hooks Onto The Spark plug.
I Usually Only Use a Timing Tape When making my Mark on the Dampers.I Do Not Stick Them On.A Marker is Always Great To Make your Mark on the Damper.I Usually Use a White Paint Marker(From Hobby Department from Models)for the TDC mark and either a Black Sharpie or Silver Paint Marker for the 36o Mark.
Here is a Pix of a Damper I done on a Small Block....Just For Reference.What I Do Is Mark the Damper Before Putting it on and then Make a Grove at 36o Just like the TDC Mark and then Stamp it with the Appropriate Number Stamp.

Enjoy!

SS

 

[big66440]

:rolling:,,,,while youre at it make sure your turn signal fluid is topped off and clean.

 

[69 Runner]

:rolling:,,,,while youre at it make sure your turn signal fluid is topped off and clean.

You can get some here:rolling:

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=6