Crush sleeve eliminator install.

[adk-roadrunner]

So I'm replacing my pinion seal on my 489 sure grip rear as well as the yoke as I discovered a crack in one of the bolt holes. My question is has anyone done this and did you have to remove everything from inside the chunk to get the old crush sleeve out? I pulled the pinion nut, yoke and bearing out but now the crush sleeve won't come out past the bearing race. Right now I'm feeling like cleaning and lubing the bearing throwing it back in and throwing the new seal and yoke and calling it good.

 

[69 Sleeper Bee]

I don’t think you can reuse crush sleeves.
They are made for one time use which is why you have to be careful to not go to far when installing them.
Now getting one off I will let others here give advice.

 

[Cliff Ramsdell]

To answer your question, yes, you need to pull the pinion to get the crush sleeve out.

Now, they say not to reuse the crush sleeve or back off the nut to lessen the rotation torque on the gear set. Too late here so use care when reinstalling the yoke and tightening the nut.

The 489 crush sleeve used less pinion nut torque and it was tightened to get a desired pinion bearing preload.

Cliff Ramsdell

 

[adk-roadrunner]

That's a bummer I'm assuming that means I'd have have to setup the gears again as well. The pinion seal was leaking badly which was the main reason I started this but then found the crack. There were no instructions with the eliminator kit so I just assumed it all came out from behind the yoke. Had I know it was this in depth I could have changed out the 3.23 gears if I wanted something else.

 

[steve340]

Cliff is right you do need to strip the diff head right down to remove the crush sleeve and fit the eliminator.
Setting up the eliminator is a bit tricky.
Assuming it was all OK before????
Put your new yoke etc on and torque the nut to 170 foot pounds. Because you have changed components things may not now be the same. You will not be able to tell if you have any pinion bearing preload there is just too many components engaged.
If the diff binds up you have too much preload and it is probably best to pull it apart.
If you can jiggle the pinion up and down - you either tighten the nut more or strip the diff.

 

[69 Sleeper Bee]

Well now's the time to go to a new gear ratio.
I have a 3.23 now and am going to wait till I need to get into it to switch out to a 3.55
Go on YouTube and search for videos on your type Chrysler rear gear setup.

 

[adk-roadrunner]

Cliff is right you do need to strip the diff head right down to remove the crush sleeve and fit the eliminator.
Setting up the eliminator is a bit tricky.
Assuming it was all OK before????
Put your new yoke etc on and torque the nut to 170 foot pounds. Because you have changed components things may not now be the same. You will not be able to tell if you have any pinion bearing preload there is just too many components engaged.
If the diff binds up you have too much preload and it is probably best to pull it apart.
If you can jiggle the pinion up and down - you either tighten the nut more or strip the diff.

The instructions I found stated measure crush sleeve that comes out and build up the eliminator with the shims until its just slightly smaller. Install everything and torque to 140lbs if it still spins the same as before its good. It took 10 inch pounds to spin the whole assembly before I pulled bolt.

 

[steve340]

The pinion nut torque is a minimum of 170 with the crush sleeve.
The factory diffs that use shims the torque is 240.
That nut needs to tight enough to stop that pinion "walking" back and forth.
I would stick to the factory recommended 170.
The 10 inch pounds is the pinion only not the whole diff.

 

[adk-roadrunner]

The pinion nut torque is a minimum of 170 with the crush sleeve.
The factory diffs that use shims the torque is 240.
That nut needs to tight enough to stop that pinion "walking" back and forth.
I would stick to the factory recommended 170.
The 10 inch pounds is the pinion only not the whole diff.

I was going by the instructions here http://www.ratechmfg.com/chryslerspbs.htm on the 140. the kit I have came from Dr Diff but it came with no installation instructions. The 10 inch pounds I'm talking about is the reading I got while turning the complete assembly with axles installed with a beam type torque wrench on pinion bolt. I actually miss spoke their instructions say 125 ft lbs.

 

[adk-roadrunner]

I think I'll email Cass as Dr Diff and see what he recommends for torque with his kit.

 

[Ceedawg]

Here’s a tip, use one of the shims under the crush sleeve, it can crush a little more. I’m hoping that crack is not under the bearing cap? Or is it the yoke? Trash for either one. A good thing for the eliminator is you can set preload, about 8-10 inch pounds turning the pinion, once that’s set remove the yoke and install seal last.

 

[adk-roadrunner]

Here’s a tip, use one of the shims under the crush sleeve, it can crush a little more. I’m hoping that crack is not under the bearing cap? Or is it the yoke? Trash for either one. A good thing for the eliminator is you can set preload, about 8-10 inch pounds turning the pinion, once that’s set remove the yoke and install seal last.

Crack is in the yoke I have a brand new one that was why I removed the pinion bolt and original yoke and bought the crush sleeve Eliminator. Now I'm thinking might as well rebuild all bearings and change gears if I have to disassemble everything.

 

[YY1]

I've reused crush sleeves.

The trick is to go to the same torque and just one tiny blonde CH past.

More of a "feel" for it kind of thing.

...or maybe I've just gotten real lucky.

 

[Cranky]

Yeah, pull the chuck out and take it apart. Check back lash before taking out the carrier....

 

[68Dart470]

Toss it back together and torque the pinion nut to 125ft/lbs. I put anerobic sealer on the yoke splines and red locktite along with new nut on the yoke. Slam it together and see if it's still quiet.

 

[Master Gunner]

Guy's, something to point out here, he's not using a crush sleeve, he's using a spacer and shims designed to eliminate the crush sleeve.

Mark

 

[Cliff Ramsdell]

@Master Gunner Well, at this point he still has the crush sleeve because you can’t just slide the sleeve out the front, you need to remove the carrier and take the sure grip and ring gear out to pull the pinion.

@adk-roadrunner I agree 100% on a bit of red loctite on the pinion nut. Keeps it from coming loose since your going to reuse the original crush sleeve.

Cliff Ramsdell

 

[adk-roadrunner]

Yeah, pull the chuck out and take it apart. Check back lash before taking out the carrier....

I think it's too late I had already removed pinion nut yoke and bearing. I though I researched enough but apparently not. I read in a couple places that you spin the whole rear assembly with axles in but no brakes with an inch pound beam style torque wrench so you have a reading to shoot for after installing the eliminator kit. I assumed you just pulled the yoke and bearing and the crush sleeve would come out of the snout. Either way it needed to come apart as the seal was leaking badly and the yoke was cracked. I'm assuming I cant check lash at this point since I've already removed everything. I did fine it strange that when I hit the pinion nut with impact it came off instantly like it wasn't very tight at all. This was a complete 8 3\4 rear with 489 sure grip and 3.23 gears I bought like 6 years ago for 350.00 when I started planning my 440 swap so who knows if someone else had been in there.

 

[Cranky]

I think it's too late I had already removed pinion nut yoke and bearing. I though I researched enough but apparently not. I read in a couple places that you spin the whole rear assembly with axles in but no brakes with an inch pound beam style torque wrench so you have a reading to shoot for after installing the eliminator kit. I assumed you just pulled the yoke and bearing and the crush sleeve would come out of the snout. Either way it needed to come apart as the seal was leaking badly and the yoke was cracked. I'm assuming I cant check lash at this point since I've already removed everything. I did fine it strange that when I hit the pinion nut with impact it came off instantly like it wasn't very tight at all. This was a complete 8 3\4 rear with 489 sure grip and 3.23 gears I bought like 6 years ago for 350.00 when I started planning my 440 swap so who knows if someone else had been in there.

You can always stick the old crush sleeve back in and if you have something that you can use as a spacer with a large washer, you can use that in place of the yoke instead of putting it back on. Most of the time yokes are pretty snug on the splines so I'll use a 'pre-assembly' spacer for doing preliminary assembly for checking pinion depth and preload so if any changes need to be made, it makes it much easier to take things back apart. And looks like you found one of the reasons why I do not like crush sleeves like the one used in the 89 cases. And checking the bearing preload with the axles in.....is something that isn't right. It's checked without the seal though. Another reason why I like to use an assembly spacer lol. You should be ok on the back lash though and since the yoke nut was loose, you might not get a good reading anyways.

 

[Ceedawg]

You can always stick the old crush sleeve back in and if you have something that you can use as a spacer with a large washer, you can use that in place of the yoke instead of putting it back on. Most of the time yokes are pretty snug on the splines so I'll use a 'pre-assembly' spacer for doing preliminary assembly for checking pinion depth and preload so if any changes need to be made, it makes it much easier to take things back apart. And looks like you found one of the reasons why I do not like crush sleeves like the one used in the 89 cases. And checking the bearing preload with the axles in.....is something that isn't right. It's checked without the seal though. Another reason why I like to use an assembly spacer lol. You should be ok on the back lash though and since the yoke nut was loose, you might not get a good reading anyways.

I’ll add, backlash specs are usually etched on the ring gear. Set it then check pattern. One reason the 741-742 and Dana’s are nice because preload is set with shims, crush sleeve was a quick setup for Chrysler.