• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Dana 60

I said the same thing in post #35 but guess rww124 missed it......
Sorry for asking a repeat question, didn't know people were keeping score on here. As it seems my Cousin is finding more and more things that are not correct on my Super Bee this has me going in circles trying to get information on if the incorrections are a need to fix or are not correct however acceptable so I do lose count. The Dana 60 in my car has no date codes on the top of the axle tubes and no holes on the top just behind the yoke in order to mount a pinion snubber so yes this Dana came out of a truck. No one, without consent, will be crawling under my car to check for these numbers and even though I have Super Stock leaf springs I have no plans on mounting a pinion snubber so with all this I am good as long as the truck's Dana is not going to interfere with the handling/drivability/geometry of my car. My RobbMc starter is still acting up so made another call to TTI where a tech. told me that the TTIs on my car are meant for raised runner heads which my 440 Sources are not, something they failed to mention when I initially spoke to TTI. I should have 383440-134 or 440-178 TTIs rather than the 440-218s currently on the car with the correct headers raising the starter about 5/8 on an inch as well the tech. told me the 11 inch flywheel will push my starter closer to the headers. I am hoping the starter is not fried and it may be an electrical issue under the dash as my Cousin has now clocked the solenoid about 1 1/2 inches away from the headers and installed a heat shield (the starter body now has between 1/4 to 3/8 inch clearance. The reason for this finger crossing of an under the dash electrical issue is only there as my back up lights are still staying on as long as the battery is hooked up even after pulling the connection socket off the prongs of the reverse light switch mounted in the trans.
 
The chances are very good that you have a truck Dana 60 (could be Ford, Mopar, or other, several companies used Dana rearends in trucks), that someone narrowed to fit a car, removed the spring pads on top of the housing, put pads on the bottom at 44", to match the Mopar car spring spacing, and used aftermarket axles and bearings to get a five on 4 1/2 bolt pattern.
Really, other than the fact it's not "factory original" there's not a thing wrong with that. I would MUCH rather have a well done truck 60 in my car than a 8 3/4, but I would never spend the money for a original year correct car Dana, unless I had a real hemi or Sixpack car that needs one to be correct. They are just too much money for what you might gain over what you have.

And for reference, though nobody has mentioned it..... yours might be a Dana 61. Also a truck rear, but available with higher gears (lower numerically) than a 60. Also, Dana made bigger rearends for trucks, Dana 70, and Dana 80, both ridiculously heavy and overkill for ANY car. (A Dana 60 might have a cast-in 60 at the lower right rear corner of the gear case, just below the cover. Real Mopar car 60s do, I don't know if the truck rears do or not).
 
The chances are very good that you have a truck Dana 60 (could be Ford, Mopar, or other, several companies used Dana rearends in trucks), that someone narrowed to fit a car, removed the spring pads on top of the housing, put pads on the bottom at 44", to match the Mopar car spring spacing, and used aftermarket axles and bearings to get a five on 4 1/2 bolt pattern.
Really, other than the fact it's not "factory original" there's not a thing wrong with that. I would MUCH rather have a well done truck 60 in my car than a 8 3/4, but I would never spend the money for a original year correct car Dana, unless I had a real hemi or Sixpack car that needs one to be correct. They are just too much money for what you might gain over what you have.

And for reference, though nobody has mentioned it..... yours might be a Dana 61. Also a truck rear, but available with higher gears (lower numerically) than a 60. Also, Dana made bigger rearends for trucks, Dana 70, and Dana 80, both ridiculously heavy and overkill for ANY car. (A Dana 60 might have a cast-in 60 at the lower right rear corner of the gear case, just below the cover. Real Mopar car 60s do, I don't know if the truck rears do or not).
Thank you.
1703032523409.jpeg


1703032436433.jpeg
 
The 3.31 gear was in the 89-90 diesel pickup and a lot of Fords. Watch the wind up on the rear when launching it could over rotate and break joint, fashion a bracket and bumper to the upper floor over the nose. Extend it down to about 3-4” off it but enough behind the yoke, it will rotate back a lot. Really depends on springs.
BTW I’m using the 69 Dana in my 66 Belvedere till I find a 66-67 I’m be using more offset wheels (steelies) if I go to big tires instead of the stock 14”
 
The 3.31 gear was in the 89-90 diesel pickup and a lot of Fords. Watch the wind up on the rear when launching it could over rotate and break joint, fashion a bracket and bumper to the upper floor over the nose. Extend it down to about 3-4” off it but enough behind the yoke, it will rotate back a lot. Really depends on springs.
BTW I’m using the 69 Dana in my 66 Belvedere till I find a 66-67 I’m be using more offset wheels (steelies) if I go to big tires instead of the stock 14”
Wasn't that 3.31gear in a dana 61? (Rhetorical question) if a 3.31 was available fora dana 60,why did Dr.Diff go to the trouble of having dana60 3.23 gearsets made?
 
Maybe I missed it but it’s worth mentioning the 70 Dana’s were 35 spline units vs the 23 spline earlier versions.
 
It could be a Dana 53, no?
Dana 53 has a very different shape to the rear cover. Any one familiar with a 60, will not mistake a 53 for a 60. A 61? That's different!
(In my opinion, there's nothing wrong with a 61, if you KNOW it's a 61, and the strength of a Dana with a more street friendly gear is what you want.)
A turbo'ed combo with a 3.07 Dana 61 would be sweeet!
 
Still looking for a 66 Dana, I can sell my 69 GTX one.
 
Still looking for a 66 Dana, I can sell my 69 GTX one.

Me too....but its looking like I will just go with a new Strange of Moser. I dont need it numbers matching, I just want to grenade the 8.75 while its still worth something. How much I have no idea what a 8.75 with 373s and posi unit is going for.
 
Me too....but its looking like I will just go with a new Strange of Moser. I dont need it numbers matching, I just want to grenade the 8.75 while its still worth something. How much I have no idea what a 8.75 with 373s and posi unit is going for.
Depends on the width (as long as it's not narrowed more than stock)
An a-body is worth the most, then 62/63, then 66/67, then 68-70, then 71-up.
And having the Chevrolet posi in it probably ruins the value completely.
(Teasing. Mopars are called sure grip, posi is a four letter word, and value also depends on type of sure grip, clutch or cone).
 
Me too....but its looking like I will just go with a new Strange of Moser. I dont need it numbers matching, I just want to grenade the 8.75 while its still worth something. How much I have no idea what a 8.75 with 373s and posi unit is going for.
The whole shebang is in the $800 range, maybe more.
 
Me too....but its looking like I will just go with a new Strange of Moser. I dont need it numbers matching, I just want to grenade the 8.75 while its still worth something. How much I have no idea what a 8.75 with 373s and posi unit is going for.
Strange sells them for 2700$. Not bad for a completely new package with your choice of ratios and you can even do custom widths. Especially when you see what used Mopar B body Danas go for.
 
The whole shebang is in the $800 range, maybe more.

I wasnt too far off then - was thinking a grand. 66 Satellite, 373 and sure grip, I would do entire set up from the yoke to the axle studs including drum brakes.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top