Daytona headlight door adjustments

[earlyrides]

the headlight doors on our Daytona dont want to close all the way and sit flush with the body.
Does anyone have a way to adjust these?
thanks.

 

[xs29j8Bullitt]

the headlight doors on our Daytona dont want to close all the way and sit flush with the body.
Does anyone have a way to adjust these?
thanks.

Depends on the actuation system used. The factory set-up used vacuum "motors" (actuators) to close and hold down the headlight doors which were spring loaded to open as a fail-safe feature. Clone cars use a whole variety of actuation systems, such as electric motors (like 1970 Chargers), Vacuum actuators ( factory Mopar, Pontiac GTO, etc), even remote cable actuation.

What can you tell us about your Daytona... original or clone? Can you post close-up pics with the headlight doors open? When they are open as shown in your pic, can they be easily closed with light finger pressure, or are they up against hard stops?

BTW, I noticed the 1969 A4 colored RR in your sig... original A4 car? I have an original A4/M6S 1969 Hemi Road Runner, so I tend to notice A4 cars...

Allen

 

[earlyrides]

XX29 not a clone!

I wish this were my personal car but is is just a car that I work on and get to drive because the owner cannot drive it due to health issues.

The doors will go down with just a light touch. We think that we could possibly just replace the old vaccuum lines but I cant see any easy way to access the fittings without unbolting the nose wich doesnt look like fun either.

As far as the A$ 69 Runner, yes it is an original A4 car. originally it was a "G" coded 383 but we upped the ante to 440+6 when my wife wanted a bit more power.
Here is a pic of the Runner as it is now.

 

[xs29j8Bullitt]

I wish this were my personal car but is is just a car that I work on and get to drive because the owner cannot drive it due to health issues.

The doors will go down with just a light touch. We think that we could possibly just replace the old vaccuum lines but I cant see any easy way to access the fittings without unbolting the nose wich doesnt look like fun either.

As far as the A$ 69 Runner, yes it is an original A4 car. originally it was a "G" coded 383 but we upped the ante to 440+6 when my wife wanted a bit more power.
Here is a pic of the Runner as it is now.

Assuming it has the factory vacuum hose "assy", try to save them... repros are available, but not exact. One frequent source of system vacuum leaks is the small slider type vacuum switch mounted on the headlight switch in the dash. A metal clip holds the vacuum hose assy onto the switch, so use a small screwdriver to release the two tabs. Carefully work the hose assy off of the switch nipples, the 40 year old plastic is easy to break. The switches run about $30+ for NOS, IIRC. Apply vacuum to the lines to see which ones go to what component... one should be the vacuum source. If the vacuum lines are still pliable under the dash, carefully "pinching" them closed might be a better approach to isolate the leak(s). Also, check the vacuum reservoir under the battery tray for leaks. Basically, eliminate all the upstream leak candidates before trying to access the actuators in the nose assy.

 

[xs29j8Bullitt]

As far as the A4 69 Runner, yes it is an original A4 car. originally it was a "G" coded 383 but we upped the ante to 440+6 when my wife wanted a bit more power.
Here is a pic of the Runner as it is now.

Neat Runner! Is the original interior color blue? If so, I know of it's opposite... a B7 Road Runner with M6S Pewter interior. Basically, the opposite combo to your car. My A4 Road Runner also has the M6S Pewter interior... see attached pictures. Also, your car sounds familiar, did you post on my 69 A4 RR thread over on Moparts?

Thanks for the picture of your A4 RR... Right Click, Save!

Allen