1. mrbone

    mrbone Well-Known Member

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    Ever looked inside you’re deck lid? Thought mine was in good shape until I took a good look.
    Has anyone coated the inside with rust inhibitor? I’m at least considering shooting it with spray lube after I paint.
    Thanks

    3FC8A394-B907-43CC-882B-A12080716D86.jpeg
     
  2. Aarons Air

    Aarons Air Well-Known Member

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    I was fortunate enough to find a 68 deck lid in excellent condition. To help ensure it stayed that way, i had it acid dipped before paint work. The metal comes back beautiful ! No, rust, bondo, seam sealer, paint, undercoating, nothing but pristine metal.

    http://www.metaldipping.com/faq.php
     
  3. 493 Mike

    493 Mike FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    I have done 2 each hoods, deck lids, and several doors with Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating. The product creeps into crevices and flat panel laps (spot welded). Spray cans come with extension tubing to get into those interiors. Before finish painting, I set the panels up on edge and rotate to all sides to ensure good coating. Kind of messy-prepare!
    Mike
     
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    • VANDAN

      VANDAN FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      Mikes method works, and even better if you can set them in the sun, or warm space, to preheat them, and the coating really seeps into the joints...
       
    • 68Moparmaniac

      68Moparmaniac Well-Known Member

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      10X the above. Used it to spray the inner rails and any other hard to reach areas that I wanted coated. IT's not the absolute hot setup like getting acid dip but it's better than not doing anything at all. IMO
       
    • Stanton

      Stanton Well-Known Member

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      Sure and now it "oil cans" like crazy when you touch it 'cause all the internal support goop is gone. What's the solution for that - seriously, I'm dealing with that issue right now.

      IMG_1030.JPG
       
    • 68Moparmaniac

      68Moparmaniac Well-Known Member

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      2121.jpg
      I used this, just keep layering it on the inside until you get the thickness you want. Comes in different textures for your pleasure...
      Otherwise you would've had to shrink the side panels to tighten the skin
       
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      • mrbone

        mrbone Well-Known Member

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        I actually thought of putting ‘gas tank liner epoxy’ inside it. Not sure that is the best idea.. maybe after dipping.?
         
      • Aarons Air

        Aarons Air Well-Known Member

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        If i had any issues with this, i would not have recommended it. Mine was done three years ago. I have not had one issue with oil canning, or anything else. After your post, i asked my body & paint guy about it. His response was, that the oil canning occurs when the metal is left in the acid too long. As the support goop is in big gobs. Which take a while for the acid to dissolve. For a short period rust removal, its not an issue. The long period soaking is done for race cars, for less weight.
         
      • 18Six282.397

        18Six282.397 New Member

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        Exactly right (I'm AaronsAir Body Guy )
        and could be 2 things happened to cause Lose Skin (ewww) Too much time in the acid or you got a rear decklid that got very little bit of the adhesive goop on the assembly line (Anything could happen on assembly line )
        Or a combination of both.
        longer time in acid, people get a little greedy when the 'acid dipper' says "Do you want it lighter weight ?"and they say well ya ! Lighter is always better !"

        No if eaten away to the lightest, might be ok for Race car, but you end up with too thin junk for the Street.
        Its the
        Somes Good = Mores Better = Too Much will be Perfect Syndrome

         
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        • jamie

          jamie Well-Known Member

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          I have used two deck lids. One with a good inner structure,and one with a good outer structure. I peeled off the bad decklid skin off the good inner and set it aside. Then I carefully cut the inner structure from the other enough to pull out of the pinch seams. Then I straightened the folded edge enough to test fit it on the other inner structure,leaving the rear edge almost alone.

          I blasted the inner structure and hand strip the outer lid so as not to warp it. They got 3 coats of epoxy followed by NVH (flutter) foam in the factory spots.
          This way you can hook the back on the inner structure and set it down,then proceed to dolly the edge back down.

          I don't have pics of the decklid procedure but here is a hood I did.

          https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/1969-coronet-500-convertible-resto.98907/page-3
           
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          • Mocajava

            Mocajava FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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            mrbone....I have the same issue you have and will treat it like the other surface rust areas I have had before, POR15. I used it on sand blasted areas and places / pieces I didn't get blasted. The stuff is fairly easy to work with and covers and locks in rust just by painting it on. Will flow into low places and seams and is permanent! DO NOT get it on your clothes you value or skin as you will have to wear it for about a week before it rubs off skin. ....I know that from experience! Fumes are not good but will dry in two to three hours and comes in many colors. I did top and bottom of my floor boards, frame rails and inside trunk also. Very pleased with results. Mocajave
             
          • JimKueneman

            JimKueneman FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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            If your not splitting the skin and blasting it or acid dipping it (always worry about not being able to get it all out of the seams and doing more damage than good) I would do nothing. The car will likely never see rain or the elements and trying to “seal it” or “convert it” does nothing but enable moisture to get trapped between the fix and the metal when it does finally separate because the bond to rust will never hold.
             
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