DESPERATELY Need Help: '73 Satellite Key Cylinder Removal

jmshawii

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I actually have a service manual for the car, but it talks about cylinder removal as partView attachment 1316985 of breaking down the entire column (which is NOT necessary) so I'll only show this pic.....

EDIT: better example shown by T2R9
Yes, upon closer inspection, that is NOT a place to access the push in release, but one of the screw holes where I removed a screw. DRAT! But thanks for trying. As I said, I do not need to know how to remove the key cylinder. That's the easy part. I need to know how to get to the point where I can access the key cylinder push button release.
 

satilite73

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I have my doubts about your locksmith, but, that's not the point here. I changed out the cylinder in my wagon because the tumblers had come apart. Installed new cylinder, and rather than have two keys (one for door, one for ignition) I took both keys to my locksmith, he eyeballed it, made a few cuts and I had ONE key afterwards. That's experience, not looking on a computer for key codes.

Anyways......only idea I have left is drive a screw into the cylinder and use a slide hammer to rip it out. Sure its gonna do damage to the column, BUT it WILL be out.
 

jmshawii

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I have my doubts about your locksmith, but, that's not the point here. I changed out the cylinder in my wagon because the tumblers had come apart. Installed new cylinder, and rather than have two keys (one for door, one for ignition) I took both keys to my locksmith, he eyeballed it, made a few cuts and I had ONE key afterwards. That's experience, not looking on a computer for key codes.

Anyways......only idea I have left is drive a screw into the cylinder and use a slide hammer to rip it out. Sure its gonna do damage to the column, BUT it WILL be out.
I like it and have debated it. I know where a charger sits in a junkyard nearby. Never paid attention to the column, but may go make sure I can get parts off of it and just go at it. Thanks.
 

jmshawii

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Hire a mechanic.
If you'd recommend one in my area that you would trust for this job, I'd do it. But I'm a relatively accomplished shade tree mechanic that has always done better with my vintage toys than any shop I know around here. But if you've got a recommendation near 49829, please divulge!
 

jmshawii

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I have my doubts about your locksmith, but, that's not the point here. I changed out the cylinder in my wagon because the tumblers had come apart. Installed new cylinder, and rather than have two keys (one for door, one for ignition) I took both keys to my locksmith, he eyeballed it, made a few cuts and I had ONE key afterwards. That's experience, not looking on a computer for key codes.

Anyways......only idea I have left is drive a screw into the cylinder and use a slide hammer to rip it out. Sure its gonna do damage to the column, BUT it WILL be out.
I agree 100% about the locksmith. They ARE the REAL locksmith place in town, but also do glass and are a big business now. Apparently too many employees, and not enough locksmiths! I was VERY disappointed by the whole experience of dealing with them, but kind of have no other choice at this point.
 
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jmshawii

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As I said a couple taps and its off. If you go buy the book you need to buy special tools as illustrated in the post above figure 9. All I can tell you is I would of had it apart quicker than you typed your post. Get it done. You have nothing special.
Thanks! I've given it a couple of taps more than a couple of times. Good to know there are NO anomalies that have ever occurred in mechanics. All my idiocy and incompetence, obviously. Thanks for lighting the way. I'm truly humbled. Will immediately cease to attempt anything on my own. Ordering an iron lung from Amazon now because I doubt my intellect will allow me to keep breathing much longer.
 

Charles Cook

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Climb under the car and unhook the linkage at the transmission and take it out of park. Go under the hood and unbolt the steering box and kick the wheels the direction you want the car to roll. Get the car moved and then Work on it.
 

pnora

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If you'd recommend one in my area that you would trust for this job, I'd do it. But I'm a relatively accomplished shade tree mechanic that has always done better with my vintage toys than any shop I know around here. But if you've got a recommendation near 49829, please divulge!
My buddy was in Escanaba yesterday and I guarantee within 5 minutes he would had it apart. Now to your problem. That bearing just has to pop up about 1/4 of an inch and the upper housing would lift off. Without that rubber bearing mount removed you have lessened the distance and the lock plate is also pinned on below and that is keeping the shaft from being driven out of the bearing. so here is what to do.
1-The upper housing should be loose from the lower housing? Right?
2- Pry the upper housing away from the lower housing and there will be a gap.
3-Now find some flat stock 3/8 or so thick and place them between the upper and lower housings.
4-Now tap the shaft out of the bearing.
 

jmshawii

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My buddy was in Escanaba yesterday and I guarantee within 5 minutes he would had it apart. Now to your problem. That bearing just has to pop up about 1/4 of an inch and the upper housing would lift off. Without that rubber bearing mount removed you have lessened the distance and the lock plate is also pinned on below and that is keeping the shaft from being driven out of the bearing. so here is what to do.
1-The upper housing should be loose from the lower housing? Right?
2- Pry the upper housing away from the lower housing and there will be a gap.
3-Now find some flat stock 3/8 or so thick and place them between the upper and lower housings.
4-Now tap the shaft out of the bearing.
Thanks for the advice. That is actually my plan for this morning. Mainly, restabilize the loose piece of housing and try to tap it AGAIN. I recognize what you guys say is theoretically supposed to happen. It simply hasn't happened thus far. Hadn't noticed that you are actually pretty close. There's a rig I want to look at in Ishpeming. If ONLY I could drive this thing up to see it, I would rejoice in you proving to me what an idiot I am if you could tap this thing loose! If only anyone actually present would guarantee they could do this! DRAT! Thanks again for the suggestion. I'll give it a try.
 

pnora

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Thanks for the advice. That is actually my plan for this morning. Mainly, restabilize the loose piece of housing and try to tap it AGAIN. I recognize what you guys say is theoretically supposed to happen. It simply hasn't happened thus far. Hadn't noticed that you are actually pretty close. There's a rig I want to look at in Ishpeming. If ONLY I could drive this thing up to see it, I would rejoice in you proving to me what an idiot I am if you could tap this thing loose! If only anyone actually present would guarantee they could do this! DRAT! Thanks again for the suggestion. I'll give it a try.
Re stabilize ? not sure what you mean. Separate the two halves and place the 3/8 pieces between them on the outer edges. They need to stay apart as that is the gap you need to tap the shaft down. If you put the pieces in too deep you will be back under the lock plate and the shaft wont go down. Pre-column lock did not have this issue.
 

YY1

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I second disconnecting the trans parking pawl at the trans end/and or shifter end and uncoupling the "puck" on the column if you are time constrained.
 

jmshawii

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Re stabilize ? not sure what you mean. Separate the two halves and place the 3/8 pieces between them on the outer edges. They need to stay apart as that is the gap you need to tap the shaft down. If you put the pieces in too deep you will be back under the lock plate and the shaft wont go down. Pre-column lock did not have this issue.
Yes, by stabilize I basically mean what you are saying. Putting something between the two pieces of housing so that the outer one, that I am trying to remove, is more securely in place than it's current "loose and moving around a little" configuration. This should make for more effective "tapping" of the end of the shaft and for the effort to go more correctly in the right direction.
 

YY1

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The key doesn't need to be in it in order for that release lever to work, does it?
 

jmshawii

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Update, everyone. IT IS LOOSE/FREE! I basically did what was discussed in the last post I made, as recommended by pnora. I used several different screwdrivers of varying sizes to progressively get behind the outer housing collar (between it and the next piece), and tapped and tapped and tapped with a mallet on the end of the column until I thought I saw a tiny bit of movement. Kept tapping, etc. I counted a couple of times and I would say after approximately 300 fairly rigorous taps I was sure I saw enough movement to give it some wiggle and the bearing FINALLY came loose. As opposed to any of the videos I've seen, mine was apparently MUCH more firmly seated. Hopefully I will now be able to get far enough in there to hit the key cylinder release button and get the cylinder out. Thanks for the help and suggestions. If you ever have to do this job, I hope yours is more like all of the videos I saw and less like mine!
 

Mark Erwin

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Lost key. Storage building sold. Mother entering Dementia and need to get cars moved out of storage and back to handle some family care ASAP. Thought I had prepped well. Watched several videos about this process and read several forum threads on it. Of course, mine is not working like all the rest. I did read somewhere that 73 charger satellite columns are unique to themselves and one year only.. And perhaps that's why none of the advice I've read or watched online has helped. This is on a 1973 Satellite, AT, column shift and column key. I removed the steering wheel. I've gotten the turn signal switch removed from the column and out of the way. I cannot get the next outer collar to come off of the column so that I can access the next piece of collar that has the actual key switch in it. Every video I've seen shows things coming off rather easily. One guy with a 73 charger did show that there was a c clip holding that collar on. I did remove the rubber seal that blocks the c clip and get the c-clip off. But the bearing that was being held in place behind the c-clip simply will not budge. Does anyone have a schematic, any experience, instructions, or a video showing how to remove this. The car had a very nice original interior and I already did Chip part of the column trying to use pry bars and screwdrivers to nudge that piece of collar off. It simply will not come. Any advice is desperately wanted, begged for, prayed for, and hoped for. Thank you very much. Not sure if this will come through, but I'd gladly give someone my personal phone or email if they could help out. Thanks again!

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View attachment 1316932
Can you try using a plate with 3 holes and use long bolts into the 3 holes and pull it up? Your steering column possibly has a collapsable pin so pulling it up might be safest?
 
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