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Detail Question on Plug Wire location on a Prestolite DP Distributor on Hemi

By my eye ball dave 69's post #13 is correct if you have the oil pump drive as I posted . IMHO.
 
I have been keeping track of them just have a few, when you say cam stop you mean the advance cam with the slots? The shafts seem all the same depending la or big block, no numbers on them at all. I have the sun cards that have some data, I can scan one and send it to your e mail if you want, just need year, trans and you have the dist number great. I saw it went off track just jumped in when TMM hit me with a alert. How about some one that has a Galens? book would it be in that? I never had one so I am not sure.

The shafts do have a number stamped on the bottom,and for the original question as you know,if the drive gear is installed correctly ,# 1 is always below the front clip usually around 5 o'clock depending on ignition timing on the Prestolite . Hard to believe a simple question can get so far off base.

Picture 286.jpg
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The shafts do have a number stamped on the bottom,and for the original question as you know,if the drive gear is installed correctly ,# 1 is always below the front clip usually around 5 o'clock depending on ignition timing on the Prestolite . Hard to believe a simple question can get so far off base.

View attachment 565626 .
Just the core basics but seems like some take that tooooo far........Back in the day when I restored these and utilizing obtainable NOS parts it was an easy process and access to parts....Times have changed and due to unavailable parts is why I had you the "true" professional in this area...to restore mine correctly...

Bill does phenomenal work on both carbs and distributors....
 
I know the shafts did, not the cam plates except the letter, I have a couple I will go over good. It is just weird in the OP posters pics that that the cam plates vary so much on the indexing, has to be a reason just trying to figure it out, are the vac advanced and mechanical different then from SB to BB? I was wondering why it went so far also then looked at the pics closely, I know the newer aluminum cam plates are indexed the same, I just am starting to dabble with these no where near the knowledge of 62 Max on them.
 
62 Max, If your Bill thank you for joining in, and you have answered carb ? for me before. Do you have information on those part numbers stamps? Not only are the part numbers stamped on the bottom, but the top have an abbreviated stamp like 39LF. Same for cam stops, though cam stops do not have the actual full part number.

I have seen and have IAZ 1039 but with LA, LC and LF. I also have a IAZ1139L. Seems like L is Left, but what do the various last letters mean, was it a model specific or a year designator? The 1139L also is different. These are all RB block CCW rotation shafts.

Cam Stops Various single digit letters on top, bottom have double letters, and in the case of 2 single point distributors I have that use Prestolite Cap/Rotor, they have and IBP stamp. Any help is appreciated.
 
Halifax, Yes SB to BB for DP is different vacuum position. It is the same IBP 1 cast housing, but the slot is cut in a different position. The one marked AA in my picture is the 340 type slot orientation.

You can also tell the difference based on the cam stop stamp. For me, those with L on the bottom are CCW RB and B. Those with R are CW SB. Similar to how Chrysler cams marked on top with L8 or R12 etc...

Chrysler SP and Electronic are all made pretty much the same and part swapping is pretty simple. For the Prestolites not so. For example there also are SP Prestolites that use Chrysler caps and rotors, and others that use Prestolite parts. And the Chrysler cam stop is made different then the Prestolite so you can not swap them with out a mod to the upper portion of the shaft and using different cam stop spacer. So it is not like someone mixed parts, they are just 2 variations on the SP. Also has a different housing casting #.
 
I have one hemi prestolight tach drive right now I believe, have another core coming, what is your dist number, not saying these will be right but? I would love to get more info on the cam plates (you call them stops? I knew about the shafts and the cases, would love to have access to some of the old prestolight numbers, Unfortunately how I do them I look up the mech vac and total specs and make sure they run on the machine close before I take them apart, if not they are parts for me, but no where near a expert on them, just semi mastering the aluminum ones finally. 62 Max do you have any idea where this info can be found?
 
Mopar parts book calls them Cam stops. (Stops the mechanical advance???) The tach drives a totally different beast. Different housing, different breaker plate, different point orientation, with a cam stop with low mechanical advance.

No number if no tag. Only the early stuff with the rivet tag can be useful for knowing what you had to start. Plus how many times has it been rebuilt.
That is the disadvantage a person has starting up in the hobby now, versus those who started decades ago.:(

IF you get some early hemis versus later one it would also be interesting to see the difference in cam stops. The later ones being CAP cars had no initial timing and lots of mechanical, while the early non cap cars had 10-12 initial and less mechanical adv.
 
I have to go through my prestolights and see what exactly what I have. What year and dist number do you think yours is in case I have one in the pile I got a lot of older 40'-6 to early 60's autolights in a lot and there are a few prestolights thrown in so who knows.. Yes the tach drive are different, picked up a SS one what a pia it was to find a pickup plate for it, ended up buying a nasty core to steal one from. Has that MP reluctor that is SS and is kind of looks like fork tangs, hard to explain, actually found a few of them NOS and grabbed the lot of them, Hey you never saw it before grab it!
 
Mine is for a 69 Hemi. I have seen that reluctor. It is the race version with a finer point to more precisely trigger a voltage in the pickup coil. I did the same thing purchasing a few Prestolite off the Bay just to see what was in them and to have some salvage parts as backup for my car. I am also the guy that asked you about an old prestolite transignitor box (can be bad).

I have the race tach drive distributor and part of what I wanted to do is set the car up with that vintage set up and a mechanical tach. I can do some electronic work, and wanted to see if I could rebuild one with modern transistors, or see if I could tuck a modern set up under the shell. The blue coil also. So if you have one or come across one, I am interested.
 
Mine is for a 69 Hemi. I have seen that reluctor. It is the race version with a finer point to more precisely trigger a voltage in the pickup coil. I did the same thing purchasing a few Prestolite off the Bay just to see what was in them and to have some salvage parts as backup for my car. I am also the guy that asked you about an old prestolite transignitor box (can be bad).

I have the race tach drive distributor and part of what I wanted to do is set the car up with that vintage set up and a mechanical tach. I can do some electronic work, and wanted to see if I could rebuild one with modern transistors, or see if I could tuck a modern set up under the shell. The blue coil also. So if you have one or come across one, I am interested.

That's right I remember that still have the message, wow the forms become a blur. I have been keeping my eye open for the box, pretty rare going to be hard to find when it shows up I will forward it to you. What type of modern electronics you looking for like a pertronix unit or a home made one? That reluctor is pretty cool, actually picked up three of them, seems like the two ss distributors I picked up they welded both of them to the weights around half throw, still do not know why. I have a ton of dist stuff around if you need parts, actually just scored over 100 nos delco points and condensers, they seem to be a good replacement usually the spring tension is over 20 and very little condenser failure when I test them, the new ones are junk.
 
Here is a scan of the sun card, might help a bit.
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That's right I remember that still have the message, wow the forms become a blur. I have been keeping my eye open for the box, pretty rare going to be hard to find when it shows up I will forward it to you. What type of modern electronics you looking for like a pertronix unit or a home made one? That reluctor is pretty cool, actually picked up three of them, seems like the two ss distributors I picked up they welded both of them to the weights around half throw, still do not know why. I have a ton of dist stuff around if you need parts, actually just scored over 100 nos delco points and condensers, they seem to be a good replacement usually the spring tension is over 20 and very little condenser failure when I test them, the new ones are junk.

No I would bread board and build it. I have found some of the early patent documents on the web. I can reverse engineer some basic stuff as long as not microprocessor controlled and they were not. The first setups used the points to trigger the electronics and fire the coil. Since points opened to fire the coil, the transistor is a different type. The later Pickup coil electronic distributor, generate a positive voltage when the reluctor pass the pickup coil. That positive voltage needs a different transistor to respond to that, and it fires the second power transistor that opens the coil circuit to fire.

Same here, the gentleman I help has NOS Mopar points and condensers from the 50s up. So even if you needed any Desoto parts he can help :D
 
That's good to know most of the old ones I picked up are dodge, nash and Desoto. I have most of the ignition parts just might need a few, on the fence if I should refurbish them or not they surprisingly do not fetch much. Just FYI, I have been using a four pin gm modual for the distributor tester much cleaner than the sun one., tell you what it is a nice crisp signal. Want to get a mopar box and try it, just need to buy one. Hey I noticed when I got the sun card to scan they only have the CAP one? Usualy there are two one with and one without, no idea why.
 
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