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disc brake conversion (I know, not another one)

i have used the scarebird kit several times and it works great.there adapter plate and 95ish doge truck calipers.uses 72ish galaxie rotors.for the master i used 79 dodge pickup with adjustable rod and an adapter plate.adjustable prop valve after original diverter block and done.these brake will put you in the windsheild if you stomp hard.super cheep to put together as well.

Thanks for that info. I've heard the same from others which is probably why I'll put them on my '68 Fury.

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Thanks Funship32 That is some good information. I'll have to look into some of those choices. I like the idea of using the Cordoba rotors only because it's another B body and roughly the same size and weight.

No problem. Actually in my disc brake search I found a TON of info. For example, if you run the 73-76 A body spindles, you can convert to the larger cordoba brakes by replacing the rotors and the caliper slide bracket. That's it. From what I understand it uses the same caliper and spindles. Seems as though upgrading to the larger rotors is pretty much a snap.
 
Well I know I said you "have to" earlier so perhaps I should claify.


And I mean no offense to those that didn't swap out the M/C. You didn't, it works for you, glad to hear it. Same as those who apparently didn't need a prop valve, I'm glad to hear it! 'Cause that prop valve is a million dollar question for me too. I just come from a slightly different school and while I'm willing to take the 'try it and see' and 'less is more' mindset, like with making a conversion and see if a prop valve is needed, I'm just not willing to risk it with the M/C. Then again that is just me. Thanks for listening.

I'm late to the game here, and probably not really "on task," BUT, I can share my experience with a drum to front-disc conversion on a '72 satty.

Let me start by saying that mine was already done when the PO bought the car, so I'm working on a conversion from at *least* two owners ago, undocumented. As best I can tell the calipers were from a '73-up car, along with the spindles. The master was changed to a disc/drum master, but the prop/metering valve under the master cylinder wasn't swapped.

It left me with two problems -- the front brakes not really carrying their load, and the front calipers locking and holding pressure. Knowing that I have a NEW disc/drum master, the line pressure can only be coming from the drum/drum prop/metering valve. I recently acquired a proper disc/drum prop valve, but haven't had time to install it.

As for all the conversions that have "worked," I've read, and seen enough accounts to believe that it works for some without swapping the master and/or valves, BUT, I also suspect many of those are "perfect storm" examples.

As to the question as to whether its "the MC" or "the prop valve" that's important, let's don't lose sight of the fact that it's the SYSTEM that's important. I'm not against experimenting and swapping one part at a time to watch the effects, but for me, I want to get the whole system "right" and the closer to the original engineering specs I can run (granted it's all "cobbled together") the easier it is to diagnose the "not quite right" portions and fix the whole system.

Bottom line: After my experience chasing down an incomplete conversion from 2+ owners ago, go ahead and swap the master and the prop valve...you'll be better off in a whole bunch of ways.
 
I guess with all the information I'm getting it will come down to this. It's ok to replace the front brakes with mopar disc parts as well as the prop valve. The question remains do I change the MC and then what with? I'm looking to keep it manual with the cam I'm using in the engine. It looks like I can use the original MC as a test piece to see how the brakes work. If it's not right then replace the master cylinder.
 
If I were you, I would call up Pirate Jacks or The Ramman and pump them for info. They deal with these brake systems everyday and know what will work and what is the safest. They are both decent outfits and will help you out.
 
Why buy a kit when you can buy used spindles either here or other Mopar sites and buy all the components on Rockauto.com and save a few hundred dollars?
 
If I were you, I would call up Pirate Jacks or The Ramman and pump them for info. They deal with these brake systems everyday and know what will work and what is the safest. They are both decent outfits and will help you out.

Oh I'm definitely leaning in that direction hunt. From what I've read on their site already the prices would be the same if I bought from them or pieced it out, and it looks like I can use mopar pads and rotors with their system. Contacting is the next step in the process. Thanks for the info.
 
Just so you know, Pirate Jack is running an end of summer clearance. 10% off everything. The complete high performance kit is $585 after discount. Just thought Id let you know. Coupon code is "SR2013"
 
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