Disc brake conversion odyssey

Brakes, Steering & Suspension

  1. rrTor-Red

    rrTor-Red FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    Does it matter how the calipers are mounted on the spindles, front or back?
     
  2. CoronetDarter

    CoronetDarter Well-Known Member

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    It does. On non-sway bar mounted cars the caliper should hang on the front of the spindle. It has to do with the orientation of the flex hose from the caliper to the frame. Mounted to the front the banjo fitting is on top and the flex line routes behind the spindle to the frame mount. Swapping the caliper to the rear points the fitting at the bottom of the caliper and may require fabbing a longer flex hose.
    If you have a sway bar then more than likely you have no choice but to swap the spindle to the other side and mount the caliper to the rear. If that's the case mock up the flex hose routing before getting too deep with the swap.
     
  3. 5.7 hemi

    5.7 hemi FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    Swap the spindles and calipers from left to right and your golden!
     
  4. rrTor-Red

    rrTor-Red FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    I have my spindles mounted to my K with the motor mounted already. The whole K is out of the car waiting on my torque converter to come so I can mount the tranny with it, along with a bigger than stock anti-sway bar with mine.

    Can't remeber if I have them to have the calipers to be mounted in the front or rear, I think rear. My car is at my friends house so I can't see it to verify. Thinking I mounted them on the rear, didn't know there might be a mod to the line.
     
  5. CoronetDarter

    CoronetDarter Well-Known Member

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    My K is out too and I'm planning on doing the same installation as you when the time comes. With the front sway bar the calipers probably mounted to the rear. When you get ready to drop the body onto the K, have the flex hoses attached to the calipers and see how they line up to the frame connector. As Hemi stated above, if the hoses don't line up swapping calipers side to side might be all it takes.
     
  6. 5.7 hemi

    5.7 hemi FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    You can just swap the calipers, spindles need to be swapped also.
     
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    • Dragon Slayer

      Dragon Slayer Well-Known Member

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      It certainly can be model specific, but even the more elusive 70-72 B/E body can be converted to disc brakes with original 73 up A body spindle, or 73 up B body tall spindle and the adapters. Proper spindles are out there. At that point you can buy 11" rotors with A17 bearing and KH pin calipers at your basic parts starts at a reasonable price. I am not sure these cars really need the heavier 11 3/4" rotor mod everyone pushes.

      My 70 B body was upgrade years ago using original Mopar B body spindles and adapters. Along with calipers, rotors and Bendix booster and master cylinder. I recently replaced the calipers with rebuilt KH that were $20ea. The rotor is available as a one piece for about $60. This is the original small bearing style. You can get new disc Master Cylinder for about $40.

      The hardest part is now getting the remanufactured Bendix booster. The core charge on one is now about $500.

      I do believe that some retailers have been buying these parts up to resell until the core charges got out of sight.

      At least one manufacturer has produced a new booster that is a close fit but pricey. G
       
    • JamieZ

      JamieZ Well-Known Member

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      I also installed a Dr Diff kit on my 68. One thing I discovered once it was nearly done is that going from manual drums to power discs requires a new brake pedal switch. The change in pedal throw makes it so the stock switch never gets closed.

      The master that came with my kit also had a bad seal and wouldn't bleed. I swapped in a different master and it bled normally.
       
    • CoronetDarter

      CoronetDarter Well-Known Member

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      You're right about the weight. When I weighed the disc setup vs. drum I was disappointed that they were within 1/2 lbs of one another. The tubular A arms saved a little over the stock A arms. All the major parts houses now stock the Bendix style booster, but as you said they are pricey. I'm still getting one though, I don't like the Chevy-esque looking units.

      - - - Updated - - -

      Just got the e-mail from Cass - the spindles I just got are part of the recall. DAMN! At least the K isn't on the car yet.
       
    • boneheadsGeTeX

      boneheadsGeTeX Well-Known Member

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      Very good info, thanks
       
    • Avantguy

      Avantguy FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      Excellent information guys. I bought the MP power disc conversion kit for my 69 Charger years ago, when they first came on the market, as there were very few conversion kits available at that time. The brake booster was a GM style with a 2 bolt master cylinder. They later came out with a 4 bolt MC and a different style booster. Still waiting to put it in. Car is going through major body work right now.
       
    • rrTor-Red

      rrTor-Red FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      Cass told me, even with the sway bar, mount the calipers to the front. Waiting on a different caliper from him to mock everything up before final install. Had to send one caliper back to him because one piston in the caliper was sticking out from the bore too far, making the caliper with pads, unable to mount to the rotor. When the caliper was rebuilt, someone put a taller piston in it.
       
    • CoronetDarter

      CoronetDarter Well-Known Member

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      I thought that the caliper would interfere with the sway bar mounting, but Cass is in the trade so I would go with his recommendation. As you said, mock it up to see how it fits. The other thing to look out for is how the flex cable routes around the spindle; check for binding as the front wheels are turned lock-to-lock.
       
    • Sixpactogo

      Sixpactogo Well-Known Member

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      Don't quote me on this as I have not yet installed the front disc hardware on my 68 Charger but from what I have read and been told, the pre 70 B body sway bar mountings are what create the need to relocate the calipers to the rear. The sway bar hangers are located at the front of the K member on the earlier B bodies while the 70 & up B and E body cars have the bar going through the K member. apparently, the longer sway bar must be in the way of the caliper on lock to lock turns. Someone told me that if you desire the front mounted calipers on the older B body cars you need a 70 or newer K member.
       
    • CoronetDarter

      CoronetDarter Well-Known Member

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      Tor-red's ride is a '71 which is why he can still mount the calipers up front.
       
    • rrTor-Red

      rrTor-Red FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      I was just gonna point that out. You beat me to it CoronetDarter.
       
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      • Billccm

        Billccm Well-Known Member

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        I just started my Dr Diff conversion. The shields look different from yous as the ball joint access holes are much larger. Having said that, the three mounting holes for the shield seem to be about three degrees off, unless I am doing something wrong. I have a help email into Dr Diff now awaiting a reply.

        20170318_153842.jpg 20170318_153859.jpg
         
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        • 5.7 hemi

          5.7 hemi FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          Use your dremel, install bolts, move on. Those shields don't do anything but help hold heat in, that's why I don't use them.
           
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          • Billccm

            Billccm Well-Known Member

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            Many people agree with your recommendation. I just want to be certain that Dr Diff sent me the correct shields before I move on. I've got plenty of other stuff to do while I wait on his reply.
             
          • khryslerkid

            khryslerkid FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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            Damn, talking about digging up an old thread!

            Glad you did. I've never seen it before. :thumbsup:
             
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