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Distributor issues

69'Net

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I recently bought a 69 RR. I did an electronic ignition conversion on it, I posted on it in some other threads. The car fires up and idles really well, with good throttle response. I set the timing to 18 initial. The problem is it doesn't advance past around 22 for some reason. I have a brand new identical mopar proform that absolutely will not run in the car. I've kinda given up on the distributor as being faulty. I marked the old distributor rotor location, even found TDC again just to check. Won't fire. I put the old one back in and fires right up. Am I missing something here?
 
Can you twist the rotor a reasonable amount? Should twist and spring back
 
What type of distributor is your 'old' one? When you say it wont go past 22 degrees, are you talking about mechanical advance (with rpm) or just twisting it at idle? If your twisting at idle and can keep turning the distributor with no change past 22, I'd try another timing light first. "Fires right up" and "good throttle response" would indicate that the distributor might be doing it's job.
As for the pro-form unit not working at all, well...barring an installation error those do have a pretty bad rep for being crap right out of the box unfortunately.
 
Sorry I mean mechanical advance. I can advance it by twisting the distributor. I didnt know they were crap honestly, I just went the cheaper route since msd has gone so far up in price in the last 5 years
 
I recently bought a 69 RR. I did an electronic ignition conversion on it, I posted on it in some other threads. The car fires up and idles really well, with good throttle response. I set the timing to 18 initial. The problem is it doesn't advance past around 22 for some reason. I have a brand new identical mopar proform that absolutely will not run in the car. I've kinda given up on the distributor as being faulty. I marked the old distributor rotor location, even found TDC again just to check. Won't fire. I put the old one back in and fires right up. Am I missing something here?
At what RPM are you setting the initial 18 degrees at? Your 18 may already be using some of the centrifugal depending on rpm and springs.
 
At what RPM are you setting the initial 18 degrees at? Your 18 may already be using some of the centrifugal depending on rpm and springs.
The car idling around 750-850. Only has 10" of vacuum and a pretty lopey cam. That's a whole other discussion
 
Biggest thing is getting the curve right. Most aftermmarket ones have a really fast curve.
 
Okay so it sounds like it just needs the curve adjusted (the one that runs good). How you do this depends on the distributor construction, but either way requires some disassembly. I'm not for positive on how the proform works, as in if it's OEM style, or the mallory style setup with two adjustment screws and slotted plate deal. The limiter plate that "turbine68" mentioned is the best way to go with an OEM-type. Either way isn't difficult but it may take a few cracks at it to get the curve right where you want it. You may need a spring kit as well to control 'when' the advance happens.
 
Or call them up at 4 seconds flat, get their kit and they will custom tailor it to your car specs. Saving my $$ for this.
 
Okay so it sounds like it just needs the curve adjusted (the one that runs good). How you do this depends on the distributor construction, but either way requires some disassembly. I'm not for positive on how the proform works, as in if it's OEM style, or the mallory style setup with two adjustment screws and slotted plate deal. The limiter plate that "turbine68" mentioned is the best way to go with an OEM-type. Either way isn't difficult but it may take a few cracks at it to get the curve right where you want it. You may need a spring kit as well to control 'when' the
 
I looked at it, ive changed springs in an msd distributor before but these im unfamiliar with. I think it may need recurved, either that or the weights are sticking. The car has been restored really well body wise but the motor and trans got put in and never finished. So I'm kinda sorting things out
 
10" of vacuum, a whole other discussion. Not really. I am assuming the low vacuum is due to a sizeable cam. That affects initial timing requirements...which in turn affects the dist curve. The idle timing needs to be sorted FIRST, & then the dist curve can be set.
 
10" of vacuum, a whole other discussion. Not really. I am assuming the low vacuum is due to a sizeable cam. That affects initial timing requirements...which in turn affects the dist curve. The idle timing needs to be sorted FIRST, & then the dist curve can be set.
Well, it likes 18 degrees and has a small window advanced or retarded that it doesn't lose rpm or start missing.
 
Just so you know.......

A lopey idle IS the engine missing.......

That engine will need at least 30* of initial timing for best idle etc, assuming the info that has been provided is correct.

img268.jpg
 
Just so you know.......

A lopey idle IS the engine missing.......

That engine will need at least 30* of initial timing for best idle etc, assuming the info that has been provided is correct.

View attachment 1471580
The car isn't missing. It also def would not run on 30 deg of initial timing.
 
It also def would not run on 30 deg of initial timing.
How do you know that, did you try it? Just asking because my 493 runs great at 30* initial.
 
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