Do I need to lash/preload rockers after removal?

[TB1LD]

Perhaps you need professional help to feel comfortable?
Mike

lol. That’s one way of wording it. But yeah; I think I will let someone with experience do it this time around

 

[gkent]

cam may not be setting on the baseline

That is SO friggin unlikely !!!! Maybe with a ridiculously high lift roller but not with a street friendly hydraulic roller. I think the OP is out of his confort zone as it is, don't baffle him with bullshit. Use the Mopar chart !!!

 

[pnora]

That is SO friggin unlikely !!!! Maybe with a ridiculously high lift roller but not with a street friendly hydraulic roller. I think the OP is out of his confort zone as it is, don't baffle him with bullshit. Use the Mopar chart !!!

View attachment 1961450

I answered Threewood's question. I also never said anything about which method he should choose to use. Lastly MR. A what I said was not bullshit, its fact.

 

[RemCharger]

Could you elaborate on why using the lash chart would be problematic?

It's inaccurate. Garbage in/ garbage out. Get a remote start switch, bump it over. Nothing hard about doing the job properly.

 

[BSB67]

I’ve always used the chart. Set my hydraulic preload at 0.002-0.003”. Never a problem.

 

[threewood]

I’ve always used the chart. Set my hydraulic preload at 0.002-0.003”. Never a problem.

Same. With solid flat tappet and never had problems using the chart.

 

[BSB67]

The last time I adjusted lash on my solid roller, I did both methods. Generally they were about the same if I adjusted the exhaust valve when the intake was just closed (EOIC). If I adjusted the exhaust just as the intake started to close, the lash would open up 2 or 3 thousandths on the exhaust. I’ve been told, and makes sense to me, that the VS load causes deflection effecting the exhaust measurement.

 

[TB1LD]

Y'know, the whole top end is apart. For the sake of another 1/2 hour I'd re-adjust the preload. If only for peace of mind. Do it now while the valley cover is off. Check your pushrods to make sure none are bent - roll them on a nice flat surface. Make sure each pair of rockers has side clearance when the shafts are bolted down. A minimum of .010" per pair. Don't overtighten the shaft bolts - 25 ft lbs.. Adjust the rockers using the Mopar chart - back the adjusters off all the way then spin the pushrod with your fingers as you tighten the adjuster - when the pushrod won't spin you're at ZERO - now tighten the adjuster to the recommended number of turns and tighten the nut. Move on to the next pair.

Thanks for this. I’ve done some reading/educating myself a bit and this is exactly what I’m going to do. Intimidating when doing this for the fist time and on a build I spent far too much on (not sorry) but it really is way doable. Thanks again

 

[pnora]

Thanks for this. I’ve done some reading/educating myself a bit and this is exactly what I’m going to do. Intimidating when doing this for the fist time and on a build I spent far too much on (not sorry) but it really is way doable. Thanks again

Take your time. Do it with no one around to distract you. Once you have completed all 8 cylinders do it again to double check your work. When it checks out the second time its a great confidence booster.

 

[TB1LD]

Thanks for all the input(s) gents. After doing some online educating, watching some vids, and reading y’all’s advice; there’s no reason not to tackle this myself. Merry Christmas all!

 

[SlinktRR]

The last time I adjusted lash on my solid roller, I did both methods. Generally they were about the same if I adjusted the exhaust valve when the intake was just closed (EOIC). If I adjusted the exhaust just as the intake started to close, the lash would open up 2 or 3 thousandths on the exhaust. I’ve been told, and makes sense to me, that the VS load causes deflection effecting the exhaust measurement.

I agree with this for lash on solids. I do EOIC with a bump starter but ensure that the intake valve is completely closed before using the feeler gauge. When the engine was new I adjusted fairly frequently and could tell when it needed it by valvetrain sound, but now I just check once a year and the adjustment holds pretty well.