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Does this torque chain look ok???

I do it differently. Take a stock motor mount and drill a 1/4" hole all the way thru it. Then take a larger drill bit and chamfer the hole on the side that will interfere. Go to the hardware store and buy a flat head 1/4" screw long enough to go all the way through, and lock it in place with a nut. I use a self locking nut so it doesn't loosen with time. Probably 50 cents in materials other than the stock mount. I broke 2 motor mounts on my Superbird, before a friend showed me this trick. Once installed nothing shows.
Or you could just get a set of these Mancini Racing MagMount Motor Mount Set
I'm running these with the heim joint above. Belt and suspenders.
 
If you go that route and mount one end to the motor mount tab, the holes in the tab are 7/16, not 3/8.
Probably want the bolt to fill the hole with no slop.
Thanks....
 
I do it differently. Take a stock motor mount and drill a 1/4" hole all the way thru it. Then take a larger drill bit and chamfer the hole on the side that will interfere. Go to the hardware store and buy a flat head 1/4" screw long enough to go all the way through, and lock it in place with a nut. I use a self locking nut so it doesn't loosen with time. Probably 50 cents in materials other than the stock mount. I broke 2 motor mounts on my Superbird, before a friend showed me this trick. Once installed nothing shows.
I have several cars that I have done the same thing with the driver side motor mounts. Still has a little movement as to not transfer noise and vibration throughout the cars like solid mounts do, but yet still holds the mounts together from tearing.
 
We just rplace the left side rubber bisket with a block of aluminum. Drilll an tap for studs. Paint it black.
Doug
 
We just rplace the left side rubber bisket with a block of aluminum. Drilll an tap for studs. Paint it black.
Doug
I was kind of curious but afraid to ask... I get why to use a chain, you have some slack so the rubber mount can do it's thing until the motor moves too much, the guys using solid bars or joints why not just put in a solid mount? figured it was something i wasn't seeing...
 
Nobody sells a conversion kit to the later spool type mount? I could have sworn that was available.
 
I was kind of curious but afraid to ask... I get why to use a chain, you have some slack so the rubber mount can do it's thing until the motor moves too much, the guys using solid bars or joints why not just put in a solid mount? figured it was something i wasn't seeing...
Absolutely. I use a solid mount(Moroso that I had powder coated black) on the driver side only, and no problems.
I have mayyybe 1/2"-3/4" between the air cleaner and the 6-barrel hood scoop so I can't have things moving around.
Solids on both sides with my engine induced a little too much vibration for me...a stock-style biscuit on the passenger side dampens things just fine while the solid keeps the engine from lifting.
Chain was our old-schooly quick fix for a broken DS mount.
 
On my '65 Coronet used a chain/turnbuckle for a while, the made my own solid mounts, 2x3 rectangular. Worked perfectly. A drag car.
 
I have a Schumacher one goes from the block in the same ear and to the bolts that mount the front sway barlinks on the top of the k member. on a A body. Some one took over thier designs and are making them again. Darn I cannot think of who
I have one of those shumacher torque rods on my 67 belvedere 383 big block, not a huge torque monster, overkill is good sometimes.
 
Years ago I went to the farm store and bought a aluminum turnbuckle. It looked good and worked well.

Screenshot_20230311_185815_Chrome.jpg
 
In my experience the engine will technically twist, not rise up one side.
Tunnel ram through the hood so it's more obvious.
I started with the chain, then put bolts through both mounts.
Going solid.
 
I do it differently. Take a stock motor mount and drill a 1/4" hole all the way thru it. Then take a larger drill bit and chamfer the hole on the side that will interfere. Go to the hardware store and buy a flat head 1/4" screw long enough to go all the way through, and lock it in place with a nut. I use a self locking nut so it doesn't loosen with time. Probably 50 cents in materials other than the stock mount. I broke 2 motor mounts on my Superbird, before a friend showed me this trick. Once installed nothing shows.
I did it like this ^ but I used 5/16 bolt, look how twisted mine is at launch , injector stacks make it obvious LOL, has not broken YET :)
Charger55.jpg
 
It'll work just fine... next step...
View attachment 1429766
I like the turn buckle design. Made mine similar except I bolted a plate to the front of the block instead of the back of the water pump and used a sway bar link rod bushings on the bottom to provide a little cushion. It's a 512 stroker motor with tons of torque and a manual transmission that launches hard through a Strange Dana 60. It goes to the drag strip several times a year and haven't broken anything yet.
 
If you must use chain, and it is slack like the OP's picture......twisting the chain will shorten it and therefore become a tighter fit.
 
I like the turn buckle design. Made mine similar except I bolted a plate to the front of the block instead of the back of the water pump and used a sway bar link rod bushings on the bottom to provide a little cushion. It's a 512 stroker motor with tons of torque and a manual transmission that launches hard through a Strange Dana 60. It goes to the drag strip several times a year and haven't broken anything yet.
Best place that I had on a hemi..
 
I have tightened up the chain for the time being. I will replace the mount with the bolted through mount in the near future. Thanks for all the help!
 
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