Downshifting and high idle

[janbanan]

I have 2 issues with my car I don´t understand. Upshifting works fine but when downshifting I need to do 2 steps on my ratchet to make it into gear. I also need to go all the way to park and back to get into reverse. I also have a strange thing with idle. If I push hard my rpm gets to high for a while. If I shut it off a coupla minutes it´s okey again. It is nothing getting stuck as far as I can see. I have replaced my valvebody to a reversed manual CRT. I thought it was my old valvebody not working alright but since the CRT is exactly the same it must be something else.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

Get rid of that pos ratchet and put a good shifter in it to start. Also sounds like it free revs between 2nd & 3rd. Not good.

 

[Shorthorse]

How old is your ratchet shifter? More important, how old is the cable? Is this all new or has it been functioning properly prior until now?
Proper adjustments of the detent points of the shifter and the transmission is critical and yours is off. Heat will take its toll on a cable even if it is mounted correctly away from headers and other sources. Start by doing a thorough inspection of your cable. At this point you are looking for any part of the outside sheath to be compromised in any way.
If your high idle is in park or neutral, I wouldn't think it's related. A throttle position between lets say 600 and 1200 rpm's at idle with no load is not that visible. If it is idling high, give it a quick hit and let the linkage snap back. If it returns to a suitable rpm, check your return springs, throttle mechanism and look for any slight binding of the throttle cable.

 

[janbanan]

Get rid of that pos ratchet and put a good shifter in it to start. Also sounds like it free revs between 2nd & 3rd. Not good.

Ok, what shifter do you recommend?
I have recently overhauled my transmission and I have updated with some good stuff in there. The free rev you can heare is a spin in secondgear catching grip. My camshaft have no power under 3000 rpm. I will replace it this winter.

 

[janbanan]

How old is your ratchet shifter? More important, how old is the cable? Is this all new or has it been functioning properly prior until now?
Proper adjustments of the detent points of the shifter and the transmission is critical and yours is off. Heat will take its toll on a cable even if it is mounted correctly away from headers and other sources. Start by doing a thorough inspection of your cable. At this point you are looking for any part of the outside sheath to be compromised in any way.
If your high idle is in park or neutral, I wouldn't think it's related. A throttle position between lets say 600 and 1200 rpm's at idle with no load is not that visible. If it is idling high, give it a quick hit and let the linkage snap back. If it returns to a suitable rpm, check your return springs, throttle mechanism and look for any slight binding of the throttle cable.

It seems like I need to buy a new shifter,mine is probably very old.
About high idle I have no idea what to do. When going flat out this high idle appear on all gears and I can feel some vibration in the car aswell. I have checked everything visible, and nothing seems stuck.It has nothing to do with throttle mechanism. Everything looks alright and throttle returns as usual. When I shut the engine off a cuople minutes and restart it´s normal again.

 

[Shorthorse]

In your video, the shifter appears to be hitting the detent grooves just fine. Check your cable and its adjustment before you spend money on a new shifter.
Sounds like two different issues. I have a crazy thought. I don't know what type of distributor you are using but maybe your distributors advance mechanism is sticking. That could give you higher than normal idle rpm's. A timing light would show that easily.

 

[janbanan]

In your video, the shifter appears to be hitting the detent grooves just fine. Check your cable and its adjustment before you spend money on a new shifter.
Sounds like two different issues. I have a crazy thought. I don't know what type of distributor you are using but maybe your distributors advance mechanism is sticking. That could give you higher than normal idle rpm's. A timing light would show that easily.

I will follow your advice and start with replacing the cable, I kind of like the look of my old Hurst shifter. It seems to work fine pulling but not so good pushing.
Maybe you have something there about the distributor. I´m into motorcycles and don´t have that much experience of ignition on cars. I can see it is electronic but that is about all I know. On my harley I have electronic but with weights aswell. Is that the same thing here?
If I understood you right you suggest me checking timing when high idle occur?(sorry I´m swedish)

 

[Shorthorse]

I would still suggest a thorough visual inspection first before you spend any money. Internally, cables can stretch and weaken especially where the cable is close to a heat source such as your exhaust but they can also burn through when not properly routed around those heat sources. I've had ratchet shifters in the past that performed flawlessly. That is until the cables got burnt. They all showed themselves with the same symptom, pull fine but not push.
After reconsidering my suggestion about the timing light, I don't think that would be valid. If the engine is idling at a high rate, the weights would probably be extended anyway. It would be easier to remove the cap and check the weight & springs by hand. If the weights move freely and the springs appear to have good tension then my theory is wrong. I noticed you still have the vacuum advance mechanism but I don't see a hose. Is it blocked off? I run all mechanical distributors and I don't know much about vacuum advance but I'm sure someone here will know if a faulty vacuum advance mechanism could cause the distributor to fail to return to normal idle timing.

 

[oldbee]

Yup the vac.adv. could be moving the plate where the points are mounted & the plate isn't retracting back from rust/wear.

 

[janbanan]

Well...as I told you I don´t know much about timing and especially not anything about vacuum advance mechanism. There is a rubberhat blocking where the hose should be. Is it possible to remove vacuum mechanism completely?

 

[janbanan]

What is the proper length on shiftcable for Hurst Ratchet to 727?

 

[oldbee]

A working vac.advance is usually better for street driving.

 

[janbanan]

A working vac.advance is usually better for street driving.

Will it work for my camshaft?http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=709&sb=2
I have done a little research on your post. It seems like I have a adjustable vac.advance and it should be connected to manifold to make any difference on idle? Is that correct?

 

[oldbee]

If you have a port on carb that has vacuum when idling, then yes in my opinion.

 

[Shorthorse]

What is the proper length on shiftcable for Hurst Ratchet to 727?

I think the standard cable supplied in a new shifter is 5 feet. Hurst also sells different length cables individually because you may need one longer or shorter depending on your application. In your case, if the present cable length is such that it lays on the exhaust pipe and you can't find an alternative route, then you will want to consider a different lenght to clear any hazards (heat, binding etc.).
Hurst makes several model ratchet shifters and the cables are different depending on the model. For instance, the Promatic and V-matic are different from the Autostick, Quarter-stick and Pistol Grip models. The same is true with the B&M ratchet models which also fit the Hurst shifters.
Just remember -
1. Check your cable first. You are trying to determine if the cable is the cause of your shifting issue.
2. If the cable is damaged, determine if the routing or length was a factor in it's failure.
3. Before you order, know what model shifter you have. I would suggest ordering by phone so you can ask questions and make sure you are getting the right part.

I have found that the addition of a thermal sleeve on the cable can work effectively. It is not a cure all and still MUST clear all heat sources but it does reflect heat well.

 

[janbanan]

I think the standard cable supplied in a new shifter is 5 feet. Hurst also sells different length cables individually because you may need one longer or shorter depending on your application. In your case, if the present cable length is such that it lays on the exhaust pipe and you can't find an alternative route, then you will want to consider a different lenght to clear any hazards (heat, binding etc.).
Hurst makes several model ratchet shifters and the cables are different depending on the model. For instance, the Promatic and V-matic are different from the Autostick, Quarter-stick and Pistol Grip models. The same is true with the B&M ratchet models which also fit the Hurst shifters.
Just remember -
1. Check your cable first. You are trying to determine if the cable is the cause of your shifting issue.
2. If the cable is damaged, determine if the routing or length was a factor in it's failure.
3. Before you order, know what model shifter you have. I would suggest ordering by phone so you can ask questions and make sure you are getting the right part.

I have found that the addition of a thermal sleeve on the cable can work effectively. It is not a cure all and still MUST clear all heat sources but it does reflect heat well.

View attachment 532419

Well....I live in a small town in Sweden and it isn´t always so easy to get the parts I need. I buy most of it on Ebay.
I have ordered this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hurst-5008...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
It looks like it could be the one for my Pro Matic 2 Ratchet shifter. I have covered it with a heat resistant band but that wasn´t the case from the beginning.

 

[Shorthorse]

That's the correct one for your shifter according to the Jegs and Summit catalogs. Read the instruction carefully. The adjustment is critical. It will be very helpful if you can have someone in the drivers seat do the shifting while you watch the shifter arm and check that it is centered in each gear from below. Good luck.