Drop Base Air Cleaner Throttle Clearance

[Kern Dog]

So from the red line to the yellow line. Looks like a nice bend that you can work with.
View attachment 1495161

This was exactly my thought. You're simply changing the angle, the section of the linkage forward of the carburetor stud gets tilted down for clearance. The result is fore-aft movement on a more level plane. The whole assembly behind the carburetor stud will sit closer to the air cleaner but may not touch at all.
I have a bunch of various linkage pieces that I've pulled over the years. I've bent, cut, welded and modified many for a variety of uses.
Send me a PM if you want a few sections. I'll send them for the cost of shipping. You can make something fit and hide under the air cleaner if you have a grinder and a welder.

 

[Moparfiend]

I see what you guys are getting at. Let me see what I can try out!

 

[moparwacko]

Is that a spacer under the carb?
If so what's the purpose?
Edelbrock makes a 1/2" one for vapor lock if that's what it's for.

 

[Moparfiend]

Is that a spacer under the carb?
If so what's the purpose?
Edelbrock makes a 1/2" one for vapor lock if that's what it's for.

The spacer is to provide manifold vacuum to the PCV as I am running the M1 intake. I wish I didn’t need it because it does add to the clearance issues……

 

[kiwigtx]

I don’t see how I could lower. If anything like KD said rising it in the back might help the geometry more linear but I am starting not to see how it can be done.

View attachment 1495153

It looks to me like someone has already bent that kickdown rod out of shape in the past.....making the trajectory all wrong now.

 

[Moparfiend]

It looks to me like someone has already bent that kickdown rod out of shape in the past.....making the trajectory all wrong now.

It was too short with this 340 and Holley so it’s been bastardized and elongated to work. What should the original shape look like?

 

[kiwigtx]

What should the original shape look like?

I'm not entirely sure....but not like that.

It is possible there should be a bell-crank on a bracket at the back of the head.

 

[Moparfiend]

This was exactly my thought. You're simply changing the angle, the section of the linkage forward of the carburetor stud gets tilted down for clearance. The result is fore-aft movement on a more level plane. The whole assembly behind the carburetor stud will sit closer to the air cleaner but may not touch at all.
I have a bunch of various linkage pieces that I've pulled over the years. I've bent, cut, welded and modified many for a variety of uses.
Send me a PM if you want a few sections. I'll send them for the cost of shipping. You can make something fit and hide under the air cleaner if you have a grinder and a welder.

Hey KD thanks. I was wondering if I could fab a rod up but I am not sure about the ends. One is a threaded make I think its a 5/15 machine thread and the other end is a right angle and smaller diameter to fit in the bell crank bracket. What parts do have and what do they look like? I can thread a rod end and Home Depot has 5/15 rods. The question is how to make that right angle part without a lathe…..

 

[kiwigtx]

Here is an A Body set... 318 & 904

 

[kiwigtx]

A B-Body set for small block.....

 

[Moparfiend]

Thanks Kiwi! So if I was to bend up some new rod what are the things that are critical other than not binding and getting full rear push on the kickdown at WOT? Or is that pretty much it?

 

[Black_Sheep]

You only need to bend it enough to make the linkage parallel with the air cleaner, no more interference…

 

[Budnicks]

see the top rod
I bent it up 90*s & forward my drop base metal freshair base had clearance issues
& lengthened the rod going down the back of the motor to the 'throttle pressure valve'
used a MRE (Mancini Racing) taller bracket mount for the throttle cable hold-down
& the alignment of the kick-down linkage rod
it's made for taller single 4 bbl intake manifolds
Or like my 383/6bbl with 1" phenolic spacers

MRE (Mancini Racing) ^^^^ I don't have the part # sorry

no photos of the rod going down to the pressure valve
I got an extension 1-1/2" (long ?) like, male & female - 1/4"-20 thread
from the hardware store, Orchard Supply when it was still around

you can see how much more level it is after raising the back end
by the taller bracket & bent rod, after the taller kick down MRE bracket
I probably didn't need to bend the rod, but it works grea on both cold air aircleaner bases
A12 base or the 70 Fresh-air metal base

 

[BSB67]

You could drill and tap the intake for the PCV nipple and loose the spacer.

 

[Kern Dog]

The pieces I have vary a lot by shape and length. My idea would be to cut the ends off of what you have and attach them to one of the longer rods that I have and weld them back on. That is if the ends of the replacement rod are not compatible.
I'm surprised that the carburetor doesn't have the fat 3/8" vacuum nipple at the rear underneath the rear float bowl. Most every Holley carburetor that I have used has one there.

 

[RemCharger]

The pieces I have vary a lot by shape and length. My idea would be to cut the ends off of what you have and attach them to one of the longer rods that I have and weld them back on. That is if the ends of the replacement rod are not compatible.
I'm surprised that the carburetor doesn't have the fat 3/8" vacuum nipple at the rear underneath the rear float bowl. Most every Holley carburetor that I have used has one there.

It's going to the brakes. You could tee it, but some poo-poo that.

 

[Moparfiend]

The pieces I have vary a lot by shape and length. My idea would be to cut the ends off of what you have and attach them to one of the longer rods that I have and weld them back on. That is if the ends of the replacement rod are not compatible.
I'm surprised that the carburetor doesn't have the fat 3/8" vacuum nipple at the rear underneath the rear float bowl. Most every Holley carburetor that I have used has one there.

Yes the rear is going to the brakes.

 

[Moparfiend]

It's going to the brakes. You could tee it, but some poo-poo that.

Yes so I did not set this us. The rear goes to the brakes the spacer vacuum goes to the pcv. Is this not correct? Could I T off the rear and have it go to both the brake booster AND the pcv?

 

[Kern Dog]

Is that an RPM Air Gap?
Those are excellent intakes. Very hard to beat with other units.
One idea that has been mentioned is to remove the intake and drill and tap a set of threads for a 3/8" nipple.
That may make you nervous and I understand why. It would get around modifying the steel rod KD linkage. The cable from Bouchillon is an excellent option as well. I had one on the red car until I swapped in the Tremec 5 speed. That cable kit is now in the Jigsaw Charger. I've had that thing for 22 years with no problems...same cable. Fitment is excellent, operation is smooth too. It is a cable originally designed for 1990s era Dakota and Ram trucks so it has OEM durability.

 

[Moparfiend]

Is that an RPM Air Gap?
Those are excellent intakes. Very hard to beat with other units.
One idea that has been mentioned is to remove the intake and drill and tap a set of threads for a 3/8" nipple.
That may make you nervous and I understand why. It would get around modifying the steel rod KD linkage. The cable from Bouchillon is an excellent option as well. I had one on the red car until I swapped in the Tremec 5 speed. That cable kit is now in the Jigsaw Charger. I've had that thing for 22 years with no problems...same cable. Fitment is excellent, operation is smooth too. It is a cable originally designed for 1990s era Dakota and Ram trucks so it has OEM durability.

Thanks KD while you were writing I sent you a PM. The intake is actually a single plane M1 Mopar unit.