drum brake crash course, or refresher
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Ranger16
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Looks like it had a recent brake job. The shoes and wheel cylinders look relatively new.
Besides being dirty, they look to be in good condition. Rears don't get wore down at the same rate as the front so they last much better. Wheel cylinders are replacements but no leaks is always good. Adjust and run!
I did a quick Brake Kleen and adjusted. Might replace the rubber brake hose while on jack stands.
Not bragging, but so far this car has not had any surprises. Still no redneck engineering, of roadkill evidence. I'm happy with my purchase, so far. It's just an honest solid driver.
Not bragging, but so far this car has not had any surprises. Still no redneck engineering, of roadkill evidence. I'm happy with my purchase, so far. It's just an honest solid driver.
I second replacing the rubber brake line if it doesn't look pretty new. And also check the axle play while you are at that point - very simple if you have a dial indicator and mag base.
66Satellite47
Well-Known Member
I have had my manual adjust set up with the spring riding on the star wheel to keep it from moving. Always worked fine.
OOPS Didn't think about this reply going to the end. I see others have already commented.
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Glenwood
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no worries, I was just trying to help. I never had manual adjusters so it looked odd to me. Glad the guys on here pointed out my mistake and the incorrect set up on my own brakes. Always glad to learn from you guys!
I thought I’d update this thread with my new game plan for the Road Runner’s brakes.
Had a long talk with my friend who manages a local brake shop. He is a big motorhead, mostly street rods with Chevy 350s, but his daily driver is a 68 GMC truck with drums all around and he says it stops fine for 'city driving'. He admits he is ‘just not a MOPAR kind of guy’, but I don’t hold it against him.
Anyhow, he reviewed the Muscle Car Brakes and now is interested in how they perform. So, the plan is I pull the front drums, and take them to his brake shop early Saturday morning. I bought grease seals in advance as he said they don’t stock those anymore.
He will measure the drums, and turn if necessary to get both to match. Remove inner wheel bearing and repack with new seals. Then I’ll order Muscle Car brakes. I will install the kit, and he will come over to adjust the brakes and help me bed the shoes and test drive. If it works, he is ordering the Muscle Car Brakes for his 1968 GMC. So, it is sort of a joint effort/experiment.
If he determines the drums are not worth turning, then plan B is Dr Diff disc conversion.
I’ll update you guys on Saturday.
Thanks for the replies and advice.
Had a long talk with my friend who manages a local brake shop. He is a big motorhead, mostly street rods with Chevy 350s, but his daily driver is a 68 GMC truck with drums all around and he says it stops fine for 'city driving'. He admits he is ‘just not a MOPAR kind of guy’, but I don’t hold it against him.
Anyhow, he reviewed the Muscle Car Brakes and now is interested in how they perform. So, the plan is I pull the front drums, and take them to his brake shop early Saturday morning. I bought grease seals in advance as he said they don’t stock those anymore.
He will measure the drums, and turn if necessary to get both to match. Remove inner wheel bearing and repack with new seals. Then I’ll order Muscle Car brakes. I will install the kit, and he will come over to adjust the brakes and help me bed the shoes and test drive. If it works, he is ordering the Muscle Car Brakes for his 1968 GMC. So, it is sort of a joint effort/experiment.
If he determines the drums are not worth turning, then plan B is Dr Diff disc conversion.
I’ll update you guys on Saturday.
Thanks for the replies and advice.
oldbee
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"Back in the day" I got ahold of sintered metallic drum shoes that were awesome,,except they didn't work good when cold. You couldn't 'power-brake' because they wouldn't hold good. Kept the 'metallics' on the front for stopping at the end of 1/4 mile. They're still on there. No fade at all with them. You notice them when stopping the first couple times, more pressure to stop; then everything is fine. Good luck with the brake job.
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the Muscle Car Brakes sound similar to what you are talkin bout, Oldbee..
http://www.musclecarbrakes.com/
I have them on my Newport and they do feel a lot better, but I do not have much road time with them yet.
A friend of mine that has a 1968 Biscayne that runs low 13s just told me about Porterfield R4S shoes. He said he has used them for years.
I checked the Porterfield web site and Plymouth is not listed. Charger 68-72 with 11 inch drums is listed, and I assume this would work.
Sort of committed to the muscle car brakes experiment as my brake shop friend wants to see the results.
I checked the Porterfield web site and Plymouth is not listed. Charger 68-72 with 11 inch drums is listed, and I assume this would work.
Sort of committed to the muscle car brakes experiment as my brake shop friend wants to see the results.
wilmacmike
Well-Known Member
I think that's what I had on my 1964 Polara 500 back in high school in the 70's. The brake shoes were called "Velvet Touch Lining". With them on all four drums, I could stop on a dime.
I remember having my old shoes relined at Bayshore Friction Materials in San Jose CA. My dad used the same material on his big rig for many years.
Mike
God Bless America
66Satellite47
Well-Known Member
Did the goofy wheel cylinder that hit the steering knuckle ever get replaced?
Back in the early 2000s there used to be a brake outfit called Praise Dyno Brakes who specialized in ceramic content drum shoes. I have a set on my GTX. I always wondered if they morphed into Muscle Car Brakes (also ceramic shoes) - anyone know?
See if your friend has any equipment to arch brake shoes to fit the drum. It's pretty hard to find these days but doing so will give you the best, immediate results.
miller
Well-Known Member
Old school stuff. Is that some of the common sense stuff I've been hearing about?
Nope. My thoughts were to do nothing on the wheel cylinder until I decided on a plan for drums, or discs. I did get the 'goofy' cylinders bled by loosening the mounting bolts a few turns.
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