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Drum to Disc conversion master cylinder power booster plate removal installation

magnetb0y

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Gang,
Working on my drum to disc project for my 67 GTX. Using the pirate kit with a power booster.
Cannot seem to figure out how to access and remove the stud nuts interior side for the master cylinder/power booster plate.
I was able to get the old master cylinder off, barely, but the two studs above, no way. Cannot even see them.
Do I have to remove the instrument cluster? Has anyone done this successfully? Do I have to take out the windshield? LOL.

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Its very difficult to get to them but they can be accessed without taking anything off. I did the conversion with a brake kit from CPP and was able to remove them. One issue you may have is when you go to turn the nut depending on how tight they are it may turn the bolt with it. There is not a head on the bolt on the engine bay side and makes it very difficult to remove. If I remember correctly I took a grinder and cut a slot on the flat head and used a large flathead screwdriver to hold while my dad used a couple of extensions and socket to turn the nut. Then when I reinstalled I replaced the bolts with a a hex head. Good luck.

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Its very difficult to get to them but they can be accessed without taking anything off. I did the conversion with a brake kit from CPP and was able to remove them. One issue you may have is when you go to turn the nut depending on how tight they are it may turn the bolt with it. There is not a head on the bolt on the engine bay side and makes it very difficult to remove. If I remember correctly I took a grinder and cut a slot on the flat head and used a large flathead screwdriver to hold while my dad used a couple of extensions and socket to turn the nut. Then when I reinstalled I replaced the bolts with a a hex head. Good luck.

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When I go up in the dash there are metal brackets on either side and then one in front and I see absolutely no way to get any type of wrench up in there. I don’t know if you recall exactly how you did it I was thinking, maybe if I take out the gauges but Literally where I marked in the picture the circles that’s where I believe the nuts should be

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I have the power booster swap down to less than an hour. I have done it 3x in a row due to faulty ones.

You must drop the steering column down to gain better access to the upper right nut. Even after doing that you still need various lengths of extensions and a deep swivel 1/2" socket. A bright light is a must so you can see what you are doing.
Seat all the way back & a little contorting and you can get it done...
 
I have the power booster swap down to less than an hour. I have done it 3x in a row due to faulty ones.

You must drop the steering column down to gain better access to the upper right nut. Even after doing that you still need various lengths of extensions and a deep swivel 1/2" socket. A bright light is a must so you can see what you are doing.
Seat all the way back & a little contorting and you can get it done...
That must be just for the master cylinder which I got off, the plate is another matter. I took off the air duct, there is a metal plate blocking the upper nuts. I believe the other forum is correct, remove the top dash, (even taking out the windshield) then change the plate, put in the new plate and power booster and done.
 
That must be just for the master cylinder which I got off, the plate is another matter. I took off the air duct, there is a metal plate blocking the upper nuts. I believe the other forum is correct, remove the top dash, (even taking out the windshield) then change the plate, put in the new plate and power booster and done.
Nah. It is the way to remove the booster and/or plate. Drop the column. The upper right nut is the problem one.

OR...if you really cant do it with dropping column, remove the instrument cluster
 
Nah. It is the way to remove the booster and/or plate. Drop the column. The upper right nut is the problem one.

OR...if you really cant do it with dropping column, remove the instrument cluster
Yep there’s a metal plate/air duct right below where the nuts are and going behind a cluster won’t get to it. The only way is through the top through the dash and apparently the only way to the dash is through the windshield.

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So it’s even worse, I tried to modify the manual plate but the top booster bolts replace the studs?!?!

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Grind them off from the firewall side and use a punch to tap the bolt out to the inside.
Use a hole saw on a right angle drill
to create a clearance hole for a socket
in the metal plate that is blocking
access to the nut. You can
create a pilot hole for the hole saw
by drilling a small hole from the
firewall side thru the metal plate.
This, so you have access to the
new hardware to tighten them up.
As afore mentioned.....dropping
the column makes this process a
little easier.
 
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