EFI conversion reliability

[451Mopar]

I got a email from FiTech, they're giving "clinics" on tuning their products. That tells me lot's of people are having troubles.

I don't think it is a problem with brands as much as those not familiar with EFI.
There is a learning curve that goes with EFI.
With EFI you have to look at the fuel delivery system differently than with a carb. With a carb, the fuel bowl holds extra fuel so if pressure drops intermittently you won't notice. With EFI, fuel pressure drops can upset the fuel curve and even cause stalling. Also, small amounts of debris getting past the filter may not plug up your carb, but it will plug an injector. Then there is the actual fuel pressure. With a carb, you use low fuel pressure that is usually just referenced to the atmosphere so when monitoring the fuel pressure it remains steady. Most EFI systems have the fuel pressure referenced to manifold vacuum (or pressure) which maintains a set pressure drop across the actual injector (changing the pressure across the injector will change how much it flows.) The EFI pressures are also higher, which usually is not an issue unless running high boost pressure. With boost, the pump has to supply even higher pressure so the pump has to be selected that can support the higher pressures. Also, the higher pump pressure causes the pump to draw much more current, so the electrical supply may need to be able to supply more current to the pump.
Then there is the electrical wiring of the EFI. Some people just don't know electronics. The EFI instructions have schematics and wire connection lists for those that know how the circuits are to be connected, but then you see issues in how the wiring is actually routed, connected, insulated, and shielded (if needed.)
Then there is the EFI programming side of configuring and tuning with a computer (EFI Controller.) There is alot of new terminology and understanding of how the software works, and how changes are made.

 

[azmoparboy]

Hi to all of you, I really like reading all of this about efi system. I am always reading as much as possible so as to learn more about this new technology.

I have a FiTech 400 horse system on a very stock 383. I tried to do my homework before, during, and after I installed the system. I think I have had success. I have a tanks lnc tank pump, return fuel system installed in my 1971 challenger. I’m at over 5500 miles and this thing is so cool. I live in Chandler AZ, I’ve driven it to Las Vegas and Tucson. As long as this car is mine, there will be no trailering it anywhere. I’ll be driving it to Las Vegas in late April for Muscle Cares On The Strip, if your going to be there, I’m the white Challenger with the black vinyl top.

There is always a learning curve to anything new. It’s all about how much you want something, is to how hard you are wiling to work for it. My two cents.

Good luck to all,
Steve

 

[RamRunner]

Agree. Factory EFI is pretty trouble free for the most part. My 97 Dakota has over 300,000 miles and I had to change the TPS and clean the IAV once in all those miles.
Aftermarket setups haven't been proven like the factory setups thus my question. Plus you can't just walk into NAPA and get parts off of the shelf for the aftermarket setup like you can for the factory ones.

All of the sensors on my FAST EZ EFI are factory GM sensors. Someone on the site, said that Holley's Sniper used factory GM sensors also.

 

[RamRunner]

I have posted my install videos before, just not on this thread:

 

[Dennis H]

As far as a learning curve goes, all I did was drive the car. The Pro Flo 4 self learns and required zero expertise or adjustments from me. 600 miles so far. No laptop needed.