Engine build specs?

451Mopar

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Any of the cams listed in post #2 would work with the existing engine, except for needing new valve springs and timing gear.
The Voodoo cams use a 3-bolt timing gear. You can get the hughes cam with the 3 bolt setup also.
 

68Satellite440

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Any of the cams listed in post #2 would work with the existing engine, except for needing new valve springs and timing gear.
The Voodoo cams use a 3-bolt timing gear. You can get the hughes cam with the 3 bolt setup also.
Thats the plan! I wanted to upgrade the timing chain anyways. Ive read that the 3 bolt is the better choice over 1 bolt if a option.
 

Curiousyellow71

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Hughes has really struggled to restock cams... I would call them to verify what is available.
The hughes cams are made for them by Howards as far as I know. This is the lobe list with more detail then hughes offers if you want to compare. The voodoo is assymetric on the intake. Howards grinds are likely more symmetric.
Screenshot_20220730-160754_Drive.jpg


Screenshot_20220731-185712_Drive.jpg
 
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68Satellite440

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Hughes has really struggled to restock cams... I would call them to verify what is available.
The hughes cams are made for them by Howards as far as I know. This is the lobe list with more detail then hughes offers if you want to compare. The voodoo is assymetric on the intake. Howards grinds are likely more symmetric.
View attachment 1322105

View attachment 1322126
From what I understand, the symmetrical style is the old tech and asymmetrical is the new tech and supposedly easier on your valve train by a slower residual curve let down rather than a fast drop.
So for longevity of the life and wear of the motor, the asymmetrical cams of Lunati’s would be the better choice?
 

Curiousyellow71

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Yes...Assymetrical is newer has been around since the 70s. The designs have gotten more advanced as computers advanced.
Nothing slow about a voodoo its a agressive grind. It's how they get more area under the curve open the valve fast and shut it fast. The voodoo was designed by the late Harold Brookshire the founder of ultradyne. He was one of the pioneers of assymetrical cam design in the 70s. My favorite Brookshire quote..was when someone compared his ultradyne cam to a comp cam spec, He replied "all 5'2" 110lb blonds, did look the same".
 
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68Satellite440

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Yes...Assymetrical is newer has been around since the 70s. The designs have gotten more advanced as computers advanced.
Nothing slow about a voodoo its a agressive grind. It's how they get more area under the curve open the valve fast and shut it fast. The voodoo was designed by the late Harold Brookshire the founder of ultradyne. He was one of the pioneers of assymetrical cam design in the 70s. My favorite Brookshire quote..was when someone compared his ultradyne cam to a comp cam spec, He replied "all 5'2" 110lb blonds, did look the same".
This is the cam that i like the most so far. I figured if i move power band much higher I’ll begin to lose my low end torque. Unless im misunderstanding something.

B6EEFDC2-A182-487B-979C-89A7DEA5900B.png
 

Geoff 2

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[1] There is no way of telling if a cam lobe is symmetric or not by looking at a catalog description.
[2] Asymmetric lobes are nothing new. My 1974 Isky catalog has a section on them.
[3] I would think all cams from the major cam companies today would be asymmetrical.
 

Curiousyellow71

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[1] There is no way of telling if a cam lobe is symmetric or not by looking at a catalog description.
[2] Asymmetric lobes are nothing new. My 1974 Isky catalog has a section on them.
[3] I would think all cams from the major cam companies today would be asymmetrical.
Yes. Bullet cams is one of the few that lists there symmetric profiles. There are quite a few symmetric cams out there yet such as the summit cams. We typically measure out the profiles before we installed them to take a closer look.
To be clear...Hughes are assymetric. Designers just have differing opinions as to where the assymetry belong.
 
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dadeo

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This is some of the feedback i was looking for! Thank you.
Did you have to upgrade heads or stall converter or anything else to handle that cam?
Id like to know the rest of your build specs to compare my idea to.
My car is a 4 speed and running a dana 4:10 so no help for your automatic. My heads are nearly stock, good 3 angle valve job and casting clean up, 30 over 9:5 to one with cleaned up stock exhaust manifolds made 440hp on dyno. If I were to change anything it would be exhaust, that's my bottleneck.
Andy
 

slepr1

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Well thats a bummer to hear.
I figured with 9.5:1 compression, better flowing aluminum heads, .500 lift cam swap, long tube headers, 800cfm AVS2 carb, and 3.55 gears would get me there.
I think you'll get your 400hp at the wheels with that combo or pretty close to it. Your largest improvement you've made are the aluminum heads. If you bump up the compression to 10:1 or even 10.5:1 you can still run high octane 93 street gas with aluminum heads and you will certainly be at the 400+mark. If you are looking for 'off the line' power, namely torque, the 440 is a great engine for that. For my cam, I asked Hughes to choose one for me based on my wants and equipment. They scored it perfectly. I also changed my stock rods to aluminum rods. When I hear of an engine failing, its usually because it threw a rod. Along with its weight savings, I slept better knowing my engines weakest link was new and improved. Obviously with all new ARP hardware.
Since you are in the building stage, have you looked at your driveshaft, u-joints, ect to handle this extra torque you'll be giving it. I didn't and threw a u-joint in a middle of a pass. BTW, get a driveshaft loop too lol.

2018 cordoba cam specs.jpg
 

68Satellite440

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I think you'll get your 400hp at the wheels with that combo or pretty close to it. Your largest improvement you've made are the aluminum heads. If you bump up the compression to 10:1 or even 10.5:1 you can still run high octane 93 street gas with aluminum heads and you will certainly be at the 400+mark. If you are looking for 'off the line' power, namely torque, the 440 is a great engine for that. For my cam, I asked Hughes to choose one for me based on my wants and equipment. They scored it perfectly. I also changed my stock rods to aluminum rods. When I hear of an engine failing, its usually because it threw a rod. Along with its weight savings, I slept better knowing my engines weakest link was new and improved. Obviously with all new ARP hardware.
Since you are in the building stage, have you looked at your driveshaft, u-joints, ect to handle this extra torque you'll be giving it. I didn't and threw a u-joint in a middle of a pass. BTW, get a driveshaft loop too lol.

View attachment 1322364
I’ll definitely be checking u joints. Ive got a transmission mount to put in too.
Getting into 10:1 compression or higher requires 91 or higher octane?

Ive also been recommended chrome moly rods, which one is the better choice?
 

slepr1

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Others may chime in on the actual octane requirements because I followed the advice of my engine builder and speed shop. All's I know is aluminum heads can take higher compression with street gas.
I went with aluminum rods because of the same recommendations as a replacement. Mind you I was building the 440 to handle 200 shot nitrous as well.
 

69ChargerR/TSE

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Engine Masters|S6 E104
•General Mayhem 440 Returns
440 Source Stealth heads,
Schneider cams Hydraulic roller .244 intake/exhaust Dur @50, .555 lift, 110 degree lobe separation
Mopar P5153525 dual plane intake,
TTI 1 7/8 primary tube headers,
JESRP pistons with 10.25:1 compression,
Rods are H beam with .990" pin
Forged stock crank,
Stock rockers,
Holley 830cfm HP Carb,
CVR 1.5" spacer

Results:
1/7/8 headers 550.7lbs Torque, 522.8HP
Dual Plane intake 563.3lbs Torque, 527.8HP
1.5" Spacer 564.2lbs Torque, 536.1HP
Nitrous .60 753.5lbs Torque, 753.3HP with 116 octane, 30 degrees of timing, 1" spacer, and a .25" nitrous spacer

B388BAB2-29BE-4D25-A364-BC852D3A8045.jpeg


Also make sure your brakes are upgraded, you'll need to stop.
 
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