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Engine builder

halojumper

Well-Known Member
Local time
10:34 PM
Joined
Jul 29, 2014
Messages
336
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378
Location
ocala florida
I have heard good, and bad about carolina machine crate engines. Does anybody in the Ocala, Florida area know a good engine builder? I would ask Don Garlits, but i already would that answer. After seeing so much stuff about engine builders on the internet i'm almost stuck in "analysis paralysis" any ideas?
 
United Speed World in Tampa did my 492 stroker. I could not be happier with the work they did.
 
Great idea to do your homework on this; I thought I did before having a very pricy engine build, but apparent it wasn't quite enough despite some nice recommendations and first impressions.
 
I'm doing that. You just see so much disinformation , or mixed reviews. I seem to think that some people were complaining mostly about their stroker motors. I don't know if they are twitchy beasts, or people are putting a race motor in their cars, and complain when it sucks too much gas, or is not fun to drive. I'm not downing anybody if that is what they want to do. I'm looking for a 383, 375 horsepower big block. I'm not looking to be a traffic light drag racer. I think it we be more fun to drive than constantly working on it. I see motors advertised with big horsepower numbers with all the trick parts. I just think sometimes people get mesmerized by this.
 
My 492 is nothing exotic....9.5:1 compression, so it runs fine on pump gas. Tame cam with hydraulic roller rockers....idles nicely. Edelbrock aluminum heads right out of the box. MSD Ready-to-Run distributor. Still running 6bbl carbs...no fuel injection. Makes gobs of power down low in the RPM range, so I don't need a crazy loose torque converter. Excellent street manners, doesn't over heat (mechanical fan and shroud). The only times I've touched anything on the motor since I put it in last year was to change the oil.
 
I get that. Like i said I'm not downing anybody. I think some guys mistakenly throw in a race only motor, and they complain when it breaks, or they can't dial it in. You obviously did it the right way.
 
I'm doing that. You just see so much disinformation , or mixed reviews. I seem to think that some people were complaining mostly about their stroker motors. I don't know if they are twitchy beasts, or people are putting a race motor in their cars, and complain when it sucks too much gas, or is not fun to drive. I'm not downing anybody if that is what they want to do. I'm looking for a 383, 375 horsepower big block. I'm not looking to be a traffic light drag racer. I think it we be more fun to drive than constantly working on it. I see motors advertised with big horsepower numbers with all the trick parts. I just think sometimes people get mesmerized by this.
Guess as I reflect on my experience I had too much blind trust or faith. Overall the shop did a nice job but there were odd shortcuts that bugged the **** out a me and caused me hours of rework and more costs. Shop put in a load of that stop leak crap; found out as it was running super hot, gauge was maxed and double checked it with laser thermo. My rad looked like a septic tank. Shop says no worry "drive it like I stole it." Friggin kiddin? Did a pressure check and one of the water pump bolts popped out spewing coolant all over. Ended up installing a shroud, 7-blade fan, top seal, and other tips from guys on the site and elsewhere and now running at least <200 most of the time. Shop evidently gave zero thought or care to cooling with the major rebuild and HP upgrades done. There's other ****; but will spare ya. Anyway - avoid blind faith!
 
Guess as I reflect on my experience I had too much blind trust or faith. Overall the shop did a nice job but there were odd shortcuts that bugged the **** out a me and caused me hours of rework and more costs. Shop put in a load of that stop leak crap; found out as it was running super hot, gauge was maxed and double checked it with laser thermo. My rad looked like a septic tank. Shop says no worry "drive it like I stole it." Friggin kiddin? Did a pressure check and one of the water pump bolts popped out spewing coolant all over. Ended up installing a shroud, 7-blade fan, top seal, and other tips from guys on the site and elsewhere and now running at least <200 most of the time. Shop evidently gave zero thought or care to cooling with the major rebuild and HP upgrades done. There's other ****; but will spare ya. Anyway - avoid blind faith!
That's what i mean. You lay down hard earned money, and some of these shops stab you. They must be low lifes. With all their alleged experience, and machinery, and tools you think they could perform a service that you pay for. They must not have a moral compass. They go out of business, then pop up again with a different name. No pride, or honor.
 
Always been shyster shops, always will be shyster shops....
That said,
I think the main problem lays mainly within the domain of the Customers ?

I mean how many call up any pf the reputable Shops, and there are MANY..... and just let them do it as they see fit ?
Done, Finished and Dyno'd of course ? The Customer just attends the Dyno and Pays the Bill afterwards ?
NOT MANY !
because most think it's too expensive, so they look for "cheaper" ways to get their Engine done by means their own involvement to save money.... hence why the shysters are still around satisfying that price point for the dreamers...... who are too cheap to Pay the REAL Shops ?

For example:

It's just so silly.... people think "Boring & Honing" is "Boring & Honing" Right ? should be able to get that done "competently" anywhere Right ?
I mean if the Customer doesn't know WHAT Pistons he received with his Stroker Kit ? How the hell is the NAPA store machinist with NO Torque Plate supposed to know ?
Is it 4032 Alloy ? , 2618 ? 390 ? Cam & Barrel design Skirt ? What's "Pin-Fitting" ? supposedly to be good to go out of the Box right ?

just say'in...
PLENTY
of Very Good, and VERY reputable Shops out there.... but they Charge for what they do..... and if your dial finger is dummy-stringed to your wallet that's unfortunately your problem ?
 
No, I only had a dummy cord on my CAR15. (Parachute cord sling)I just want to find a reputable shop. Like I said i Just want a mild 383. No stroker. The money is there. There is no shop where I live that dynos their engines. I will have to go elsewhere to get an engine. I'm not in the mood to drop a significant amount of money, then drop it in the car, and f@ck around, and yank it back out because it leaks or if it's a crap build. You have been in the hobby longer than I have what engine builder in your opinion does reputable work?
 
Allow me yet another post here to toss over comments: The shop I refer to is a well known mopar rebuild shop in my locale. Came referred by a fellow forum member and I know a couple of guys that had their engines done there...and they love the place. Viewing their shop/projects was highly impressive and no doubt they know their stuff. The owner who was working on my motor took time to show me my motor during the build process, the engine parts to be installed...nice guy. What's da problem? I mentioned some of this in my earlier post on cooling problems; but also what appeared as work done in a rush. Reminds me of my 1st boss when I went to work in a machine shop starting out as a grunt. He took me over to a lathe telling me "Clean this machine like it's your car...not your old man's". That's the gist...finding someone who gives a good **** about another's car. Pie in the sky? Well if ya are willing to pay top dollar then ya expect top quality. Sadly not the case, in mine anyway. And more sadly, I have two other shops where their work was less than cherry despite their being busy shops. Back to the engine shop, I was within a whisker of getting a crate motor to install myself with a couple of knowledgeable buddy's; but da shop talked me out of it seeming enthralled by rebuilding the original motor in my car. I've done motor rebuilds before, less the machine shop work required, having that done and doing the take out and install. My interest was saving time as I'm not a youngster anymore and had the cash so I could spend more time driving and less working on it....well sheeit, that didn't exactly pan out. It's all about get it in and out fast for da profit..
 
Yep, it's about the money. Less time more money :) i'm not a young either I know this because my 40 time has slipped. That's what i want to do, drive it not constantly crawling around the engine bay.
 
No, I only had a dummy cord on my CAR15. (Parachute cord sling)I just want to find a reputable shop. Like I said i Just want a mild 383. No stroker. The money is there. There is no shop where I live that dynos their engines. I will have to go elsewhere to get an engine. I'm not in the mood to drop a significant amount of money, then drop it in the car, and f@ck around, and yank it back out because it leaks or if it's a crap build. You have been in the hobby longer than I have what engine builder in your opinion does reputable work?

I see you are down in Fl ?
and I have no idea of what "reputable" shops W/Dyno'd products are around that far south.
 
I have heard good, and bad about carolina machine crate engines. Does anybody in the Ocala, Florida area know a good engine builder? I would ask Don Garlits, but i already would that answer. After seeing so much stuff about engine builders on the internet i'm almost stuck in "analysis paralysis" any ideas?

Just call Carolina Machine and ASK them if you can attend/witness the Dyno Session on your Engine before Final "acceptance" and Payment ?

That's the way we do business up here, in fact, NOTHING leave our Shop until it's Dyno'd, in the Customer's presence... to their satisfaction... before final "acceptance" and Payment.
I don't believe any "reputable" Shop wants any crap out there, and I don't believe Carolina Machine does either, they will probably be proud and thrilled you wish to attend !
 
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