Engine stalls intermittently…ignition switch?

[twecomm]

Believe your post shows you have a 383. When you remove the fuel pump in a big block, the push rod will likely drop down as it comes in contact with the arm of the pump. It's a bit tricky to get it pushed back up and keep in position so you can install the pump. Usually a thick coating of a heavy grease on the rod will keep it in the up position so it won't be fighting you to get the pump installed. If I remember correctly, the rod should be 3.25" long, but you may want to double check that number.

 

[Dennis H]

When it doesn’t restart, does it spin? Clutch meaning bump start? I too replaced the ignition switch for no reason and now have 3 keys instead of 2. A real pia. Fuel smell could be imagined or there before.

 

[toolmanmike]

I too replaced the ignition switch for no reason and now have 3 keys instead of 2. A real pia.

You push the button and change the lock cylinder. Unless your switch is different than mine is.

 

[bobfake]

When it doesn’t restart, does it spin? Clutch meaning bump start? I too replaced the ignition switch for no reason and now have 3 keys instead of 2. A real pia. Fuel smell could be imagined or there before.

Luckily, my old key works in the new ignition switch...

 

[bobfake]

You push the button and change the lock cylinder. Unless your switch is different than mine is. View attachment 1928007

I changed the whole switch just to be sure.

 

[bobfake]

OK...yet another update and I think this time I do have it resolved...

With the engine running in the garage, I started to move wiring...coil +, coil -, wires from the ignition box...etc.

Well...As I was pushing/pulling on the plug from the ignition box, the engine stalled. I pushed it back towards the firewall and it kept running. I could see where the bolt securing one side of the ignition box was pulling away from the firewall. Making the engine stall was a repeatable process (YAY!!)

Removed the ignition box and drilled/tapped a larger bolt hole into the firewall and reinstalled. Now I can push/pull on the ignition box and wiring and no stalling occurs.

I know grounds are important and I'm glad I was able to find this one and resolve it.

Thanks for all the advice along the way...I really appreciate it...
Bob

 

[toolmanmike]

I changed the whole switch just to be sure.

All good. I quoted Dennis. He was mentioning he now has an extra key after replacing his switch. You can just exchange the switch and transfer the key lock cylinder from the old switch.

 

[The Rebel]

WTG on figuring it out!

 

[Dennis H]

OK...yet another update and I think this time I do have it resolved...

With the engine running in the garage, I started to move wiring...coil +, coil -, wires from the ignition box...etc.

Well...As I was pushing/pulling on the plug from the ignition box, the engine stalled. I pushed it back towards the firewall and it kept running. I could see where the bolt securing one side of the ignition box was pulling away from the firewall. Making the engine stall was a repeatable process (YAY!!)

Removed the ignition box and drilled/tapped a larger bolt hole into the firewall and reinstalled. Now I can push/pull on the ignition box and wiring and no stalling occurs.

I know grounds are important and I'm glad I was able to find this one and resolve it.

Thanks for all the advice along the way...I really appreciate it...
Bob

Where is the ignition box?

 

[bobfake]

Where is the ignition box?

On the firewall

 

[Dennis H]

On the firewall

One in the same as the aka Bulkhead Connector? Drivers side. I’m here to learn.

 

[RemCharger]

In case it hasn't been mentioned.. tighten the receptical terminals in the 5 wire plug..

 

[bobfake]

One in the same as the aka Bulkhead Connector? Drivers side. I’m here to learn.

Yes - engine side of the firewall. Passenger side on my car directly behind the valve cover...