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Engine wiring harness question

Rusty knuckles

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I'm installing a new engine harness in my 69 charger, 383, A/C car. I updated to an electronic distributor last year and so ordered this particular harness.
https://www.classicindustries.com/product/1969/dodge/charger/parts/mb2510.html

I've got it all in and it seems to fit well except these connections I've circled in red.
Screenshot_20220501-145127_DuckDuckGo.jpg

I'm almost certain they go to the balast resistor but there's absolutely no way to hook up them up. They are a double female plug and there's 2 of them. The voltage regulator plug also doesn't match but I think that's an easy fix with a different regulator. What did I screw up here?
20220501_150410.jpg
 
I think that may be for the newer styled Ballast resistors, that had 4 spade terminals. I'll try to get out to the garage later, but I'm sure someone will chime in...
 
Dual ballast resister plugs... the real question will be is that what you need/want with your electronic ignition.
 
Dual ballast resister plugs... the real question will be is that what you need/want with your electronic ignition.
Bummer. You are correct. Again, easy fix but I need to ohm out my current one and compare I suppose. Probably should have ordered the standard harness I guess but was try to save having to cut it again to work with the electronic distributor.

I do have to say, I'm really glad I'm changing this harness. I'm lucky I didn't start a fire with so many cracks and exposed conductors everywhere. I would highly recommend it for anyone still running their original harness.
 
I changed to the 4 prong resistor on my Bee no big deal
 
That has a 1970 and newer voltage regulator plug on it.

and yes those are for a dual ballast resistor.
 
It also looks like it is set up for a solid state voltage regulator as well.
Oops r413 was quicker than I
 
I'm installing a new engine harness in my 69 charger, 383, A/C car. I updated to an electronic distributor last year and so ordered this particular harness.
https://www.classicindustries.com/product/1969/dodge/charger/parts/mb2510.html

I've got it all in and it seems to fit well except these connections I've circled in red.
View attachment 1278659
I'm almost certain they go to the balast resistor but there's absolutely no way to hook up them up. They are a double female plug and there's 2 of them. The voltage regulator plug also doesn't match but I think that's an easy fix with a different regulator. What did I screw up here?
View attachment 1278661

You errored by ordering a later harness for a 1970 and newer vehivle. Or perhaps the supplier just sent you what he had in stock. Definitely, the voltage regulator connection is for 1970 with the electronic regulator and requires a isolated field alternator. The dual connection connector for the ballast resistor is for the origional Mopar electronic ignition system. IF your ignition system is the Mopar retrofit, it uses a single ballast resistor.
IF IT WERE MY MONEY, rather than adapting what you have to your vehicle, why not exchange it for a 1969 harness OR call Evans Wiring Harness
[email protected]. www.evanswiring.com.
Bill & Rose Evans*8835 Parson Rd*Erie,PA*16509
phone (814) 864-2622*fax (814) 866-8184

They will even make you a custom harness. Its worth the call. Reasonable prices, fast delivery.
Just my opinion of course ....
BOB RENTON
 
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I know lots of people keep their points style voltage regulator with the Chrysler electronic ignition but it's not recommended.
Contrary to Bob's advice I would say find a squareback alternator, buy a solid state voltage regulator and a double ballast resistor.
That's what I did with my 66 and everything goes together with that style harness not a splice anywhere.
The newer style alternator charges better at idle as well.
ZnvDzYjX1ri6FLaEZ5LtipWUvuHjDqbsKnL2XTaORrgg33_AryEXaZQqhSP7S4kAA9-Z07g=w1268-h950-no?authuser=0.jpg
 
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I know lots of people keep their points style voltage regulator with the Chrysler electronic ignition but it's not recommended.
Contrary to Bob's advice I would say find a squareback alternator, buy a solid state voltage regulator and a double ballast resistor.
That's what I did with my 66 and everything goes together with that style harness not a splice anywhere.
The newer style alternator charges better at idle as well.
View attachment 1279331
New regulator and balast resistor should be here this week. What's the square back alternator difference?
 
It has two field connections
View attachment 1279337

Good advice.....but....if you want to maintain origional appearance, use a 1970 to 1971 alternator as it has the 2 field connections but resembles the 1969 unit. Its a personal issue....wether to use the Mopar electronic ignition system or points. As shown in #10s posting, a shiny Orange ignition box on the firewall and the electronic voltage regulator and ballast resistor looks nice, but the vehicle owner best have a spare ballast resistor and replacement Orange Box in the trunk, for its a matter of when, not if, these, components will fail. There are several "miles" of threads on this site, describing quality, performance and longevity issues of the current availability of "origional appearing" components.....the new stuff just doesn't hold up. @hallifaxhops is a great source for components and advice. BTW....I use an origional Prestolite dual point distributor and a numbers matching 1970 isolated field alternator (rebuilt by me, to provide 60 amps) on my RS23V0A****** on my GTX....but this is my preference.
BOB RENTON
 
Bob is right about the orange boxes having poor quality issues.
I think the ballast resistor failures are largely due to people leaving the key on with the engine off or idling for long periods at high temperatures.
 
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