exhaust stud removal when installing headers?

[barryv]

hi, i have a 1970 roadrunner with 383 engine with original heads. i just bought Dougs headers and instructions say to remove all the exhaust manifold studs and use the header bolts that come with the headers. is it really necesary to remove all the studs to install the headers.thanks

 

[Don67Satellite]

I would say the answer to that is if you have the room to install them with the studs there or if removal is necessary to fit them.

 

[Darter6]

IF you can leave the end 2 studs on each head.
383 you should have clearance. Why ? It's nice to hang the header on the studs while starting the bolts in place.

 

[khryslerkid]

I like to use a stud at each end of the head. Makes it easier to handle the header when installing. You can also slot the gasket at both ends then drop it into place when the header is hanging on the studs. Always use sealer on every stud and bolt.

Some of the bolts on a Doug's header go under the tube. Install these first. Hanging on the two end studs, loose, will help in getting these bolts started. Don't completely tighten them all until you get them all started.

 

[33 IMP]

....and I'm betting your 906 heads have wet header bolts. (You can check with a coat hanger.)
So drain the water, wait for the threads to dry, use sealer on the bolts, let the sealer set overnight. You can mount the header with the bolts dry and clean, then pull the bolts one at a time, and seal them.

 

[gkent]

The problem with studs is the wrench needed to tighten the nuts won't fit between the tubes and nuts. Header bolts have a smaller head - allowing wrenches and sockets to fit.

 

[barryv]

i guess i will remove all the studs except the end one and see if that would get me the best of both worlds

 

[Carcinogen]

Welcome to the headache of headers.

Be prepared to remove heads when studs break, notorious for breaking after 50+ years. Heat, penetrating oil, tap with hammer and try to avoid applying torque on just one side. Don't drill broken stud only to break easy out off, costs more to remove hardened broken piece.

 

[barryv]

hopefully studs will not break i have had this car for 41 years. not sure why in my old age i got a bug up my *** to install headers. i must like pain and suffering

 

[Bird 426]

If you pull the studs, I wouldn't unless I had to, just make sure that you clean the holes well and use Permatex high temperature Teflon thread sealant. Let it set for 24 hrs, dry, no coolant.

 

[barryv]

I have 7 studs out so far. The threads that were in the heads actually were very clean with no rust or anything almost new looking. Once all removed I will install the headers and bolts should I Teflon the bolts or use sealant? Thanks

 

[khryslerkid]

I have 7 studs out so far. The threads that were in the heads actually were very clean with no rust or anything almost new looking. Once all removed I will install the headers and bolts should I Teflon the bolts or use sealant? Thanks

The liquid Teflon works good. I've used Permatex #2 sealant also without any problems. Sealant on all of the studs or bolts.

There is a high temp sealer,

Permatex 27038 Optimum Red High Temperature Gasket Maker​

 

[Orig69]

I have installed headers without removing any studs.

 

[khryslerkid]

I have installed headers without removing any studs.

You won't on a set of Doug's. Second bolt back requires having the header totally loose to get it started then you can get the rest of them.

 

[gkent]

Permatex 27038 Optimum Red High Temperature Gasket Maker

This is not a thread sealant - although it might work. But I hate using silicone anywhere on an engine! For intake or header bolts you absolutely want teflon thread sealant. One reason is it doesn't break and crumble when you remove the bolts at a later date. Particularly important on intake bolts. Its one thing to use silicone to make a gasket - they usually stay intact and can be peeled off when disassembled BUT if used as a thread sealant the **** crumbles as the bolts are undone and the **** falls everywhere you don't want it.

 

[barryv]

I got 9 studs out , 3 to go. I figure the less obstacles the better chance of me not scratching the ceramic coated headers. I think I will use Teflon. It’s funny how all the studs I took out do not show any sealant on the threads.

 

[moparedtn]

I got 9 studs out , 3 to go. I figure the less obstacles the better chance of me not scratching the ceramic coated headers. I think I will use Teflon. It’s funny how all the studs I took out do not show any sealant on the threads.

They had sealant on them - or you had coolant leaks.
Someone might have had those manifold bolts out at some point in the past, blessing your efforts now also.

 

[RemCharger]

I got 9 studs out , 3 to go. I figure the less obstacles the better chance of me not scratching the ceramic coated headers. I think I will use Teflon. It’s funny how all the studs I took out do not show any sealant on the threads.

Putting thread sealant on isn't really a debate. Even on this crazy forum.

 

[moparedtn]

Putting thread sealant on isn't really a debate. Even on this crazy forum.

Yeah - just don't mention using teflon tape. There will be pandemonium!

 

[WileERobby]

I have installed headers without removing any studs.

You won't on a set of Doug's. Second bolt back requires having the header totally loose to get it started then you can get the rest of them.

I've done many installs, not only on Mopars. Different brands use different configurations, and yes on BB Mopar you may have to use a bolt, not stud, on the #1 cyl rear hole.