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Finally got to drag race!

If you can't go around the water box and go through it, you'll have to spin dry them. :)

Always fun trying to get back at it after a long hiatus.
 
Is it a bit retarded?
There's a two-lane blacktop county road nearby that I go to. Dead ends into a bluff about a mile from a four-way stop and nobody lives on it. I'm not sure why it's there, but it is cool if you want to test and tune on clean, dry asphalt.
 
If you don't mind me saying;
here's a few suggestions

I'd bet the Camaro
(I assume has a Holley, same concept for any carb, just a different process/part or pump linkage)
needs more/up in accelerator pump squirter/size
'if it has like a #31 squirter/'discharge nozzle' (pretty common size) go up to like a #35'
(if it had/has like a #28 go to a #31)

(the plastic cam on the linkage for accel. pump discharge nozzle,
can sometimes affect it too, a brown cam may help, I'd do the nozzle change 1st)


Lack of fuel/"too small" accel pump discharge nozzle size
&/or it's not enough duration of fuel
(the ladder that's usually gonna be 'pump size', or way out of adj.)
Usually, it is a dead give-away for that stumble,
&/or maybe too lose of setting/gap (need 0.010" max)
between the accel pump lever & the accel pump arm, at the accel pump
(that lil' spring adj. bolt/accel pump arm)

Is what you called/think is "a dead hook", or bogg ?
not enough fuel discharge at launch &/or the lack of timing/advance it needed ?

(with squirter/nozzle change, you may have to try 'a couple sizes up'
they are cheap, you can get a selection from Summit or Holley themselves
for both front & back squirters/discharge nozzles, then if that doesn't work,
or the timing/changes mentioned doesn't work,
then you may need to
go to a 50cc accel. pump
)

if that makes any sense

&/or (especially on a Holley double pumper carb, manual trans)
Jett extensions & the proper floats that are made for/to clear them
on/in the rear bowls, so it/the fuel won't slosh/move back away from them,
at launch
starving it of fuel
then maybe even run the bowls 'float level'
a tad bit higher too/like 1 flat (of 8) at the adj.,
trickle out 'a tad bit more' on the sight hole

&/or
maybe needs/put more initial timing in it, maybe like 20*s
your mashing the throttle down at launch, not easing into it/under a load
more advance 'in a curve' or initial/total will help to overcome the stumbling,
you should also have the advance come in way earlier,
used with 'lighter springs' on the centrifugal weights
but still limit the total advance to like 36*-38* (SBC like that)
if it pings on a load, part throttle cruising around,
back it off a couple of degrees
sometimes they will need all the way to even near 40* of total timing
especially on a SBC, with iron head/or alum., small combustion chambers
more so if it's a bandaid/compensation, for not the best combo
or for an over-cammed scenario, &/or for any lower comp. eng.
it will want more timing

Maybe also drive around 'the water box' with the Super Bee
(anything with street treads)
maybe back into it, if you do, do a burnout,
do it on the edge of the water 'not in it'
don't do a long smoky one either
it doesn't help at all with street tires, just clean them a bit
don't get the front tires in it/the water,
the street tires/treads will drag water all the way up to the starting line
& will make it not hook (or very hard to hook) & spin,
as soon as the rear tires hit that "wet spot" from the front tires
then, it will spin most of the way for maybe 300-400ft
even with a stock-ish lower hp engine

very common mistakes

edited added;
The main thing is have fun, enjoy yourself
A lil' tune it each time, it will get better, many times,
it's no money needs to be spent (except for entry fuel etc.)
just dialing it in
mess with rear tire air pressure too, even on a street tire
it can/will make a difference
you can do the paper test, put a sheet of paper under the last 1" of tread
on the outside of the tires, lower the air pressure (within reason)
to contact that piece of paper, that gives you your full contact patch

good luck
 
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