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First questions on my 727 rebuild journey

Do you guys do anything to seal up the front band adjustment screw to avoid leaks - like a washer gasket under the hex nut or something? I tried a little silicon pipe thread sealer but it made the screw so stiff it would affect the torque reading so I removed it. Maybe a little RTV under the lock nut head.
 
AR- there are so many adjuster threads going down into case they'll never leak. I've never seen it happen. Sorry for previous 'short' answer.
 
No sweat - I never noticed any sign of an obvious leak there before but seeing as how transmission fluid is such a good penetrant oil I'm sort of surprised.
 
AR67GTX said:
No sweat - I never noticed any sign of an obvious leak there before but seeing as how transmission fluid is such a good penetrant oil I'm sort of surprised.
Click to expand...
A dab of liquid Teflon sealer. Same on any other bolt or plug that's not a blind hole. Also RTV over the rear band pin access hole. Putty knife works well. Just smooth it flat. Is this all necessary? Peace of mind, no leaks.
Doug
 
Thanks - I tightened my bands yesterday and I think I will put just a bit of sealer on the outer threads. 72 in-lbs on the band adjuster was a bit more torque than I imagined so it shouldn't be an issue. Found some variety on specs for backing off the adjusting bolt from torqued position between Trans Go, shop manual and Carl's 727 book - initially used 2 turns on both bands. Sound OK?

Now if I can get the parking rod inserted properly I think I'll have it buttoned up pretty quick.
 
Got as far as mounting the valve body and while installing the throttle and shifter arm I noticed the spot weld securing the cam to the shaft for the throttle valve was broken and it was loose. I have an old wire welder and I'm an even worse welder but I dragged it out and after several spot welds and grinding excess weld off it seems to be solid so I guess I'll re-use.

I bought a pan magnet to put in it but can't seem to locate it now. Probably stuck to something. Not sure it's of much value with all the aluminum and brass components anyway.
 
2 turns sounds right. It was 1-1/2 on frt. clutch for a hemi setup, if I remember right.
 
Deleting post on speedo gear. My lack of picture comprehension.

I have a Moroso Blue silicon over steel plate pan gasket I've had laying around for a number of years. Any reason not to use it? 150 in-lbs seems way too much to compress the silicon - I have it somewhere around half of that for the moment. I would really like to do what's possible to seal this thing up tight.

I also have a couple cork gaskets if I would be better off with one of them.

It's officially back together. Bands tightened and backed off 2 turns. Gear selection and throttle valve adjusted and working good. Front shaft and output shaft all revolve. Filter in - even found my pan magnet for any good it may do. Trial fit new converter and yoke.

 
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Finally on the homebound stretch. I got the transmission back in the car OK today.



Converter clearance to the flexplate was just right





I need a new transmission mount and just got around to ordering one so it will probably be this weekend before I can finish up. I also notice the mount pin on my lower transmission valve link was severely worn. I'm going to see if I can build it back up with my welder and shape a new pin out of it - but I may have to look for a new one. Getting close finally.



Thanks a lot for everyone's help

Dan

One other task still - flush the lines and cooler out. I bought a can of flush.
 
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Waiting with crossed fingers, it should be good!
 
Me, too!
Food for thought...first time you fire the motor...let it idle for a few minutes. That allows the trans pump to start pumping. Then, one by one, manually shift gears, pausing on each one, waiting for it to shift. Your 'bleeding' the shift body, waiting for the fluid to fill that port. Then, it's good to go.
 
I was thinking I probably should start in neutral so it's pumping to the converter. I did put some ATF in the converter but could only get about a 1/2 quart in before it got to where it would run back out.

Anyone happen to have a decent lower 383/440 kick down link that connects to the throttle valve. I'm going to see what I can do to repair mine - may be successful and may not.
 
AR67GTX said:
lower 383/440 kick down link
Click to expand...
That will be year dependent, because there's a handful of different lengths. Should be fairly easy to find one, if needed.
I've always started mine in park, but neutral will work too. 1 pint is about all the converter will take, until after it's installed. Won't hurt to add fluid above the full mark on the stick, to be sure there's enough in there. Just not too much, after running, warmed up, when it's normally checked. Fluid simply needs time to flow, filling all the channels inside...self-bleeding.
You want that kick-down linkage in place, and adjusted, before you fire it off!!
 
All back together except the TV rod. I flushed the lines and cooler into an old plastic distilled water jug and the dam thing sprung a leak and started leaking all over and made a mess. After cleaning up the mess I connected the lines and tightened them down and quit in disgust for a glass of wine (Ok - 2 glasses).

I flushed it enough to run clean, but due to mess I didn't think about blowing the lines clean with air. So I'm going to have to go back and do that. May get it started by Friday now.
 
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SUCCESS!!!!

I got throttle rod pin built up with weld and filed to fit, filled it up and started it up this morning and after warming it up and checking the fluid I went for a little drive and right now (fingers crossed) it looks like 100%. It hits all the gears, shift real nice and (so far) hasn't leaked a drop.

Hughes talked me into the 2400 stall converter and I can tell it some compared to the old low stall converter. It slips into gear without hardly a notice - although I wonder if re-installing the spring in the accumulator didn't also help that as one of it's purposes is to soften engaging forward and reverse from neutral or park.

Other than that I can tell some more slip taking off and if I goose the throttle a bit but at a 45 mph cruise it seems to be running fairly tight and about where it was before so I think it's going to work fine.

The shifts are 100% better even with the valve body mods. it now actually runs out a little in each gear at part throttle where as before it seemed to always be short shifting into high. And the shift at even 25% throttle are smooth - hardly notice unless I'm watching the tach or listening to the engine. I didn't try to work it hard - will let it wear in awhile first.

AND - the whine in low gear seems to be completely gone which was one of my objectives. I went far enough that I'm sure it was warmed up thoroughly and I didn't notice any whining as it downshifted at stops or in taking off in first.

Now if the converter doesn't leak down overnight as before I am good.

Question on adjusting the throttle valve linkage. The shop manual is specific about setting the height of the intermediate rod with the gage pin and then with everything held forward (TV lever and carb throttle) adjust the slotted arm to where it the front of the slot just misses hitting the throttle pin on the carb linkage.

However, many on here have insisted that after adjusting the intermediate rod, push the throttle linkage all the way back and push the carb linkage fully back to full throttle and adjust the slotted arm to where it has a 1/16 inch free play at the rear of the slot with the throttle pin on the carb linkage.

Right now I've set it up per the last method rather than per the shop manual. Anyone want to theorize which one is really better? Maybe Doug (DVW) will chime in since he did this for years as a Chrysler tech.

Again - thanks to all who helped me with advice and instructions.

Dan
 
Good deal!
I'll let DVW chime in on the linkage...(since I don't have near his experience).
 
miller said:
Good deal!
I'll let DVW chime in on the linkage...(since I don't have near his experience).
Click to expand...

Oh - I would like to hear any opinions on the adjustment. I have an Edelbrock carb and I think the carb throttle pin is a little different than the old Carters. If I set it per the manual - it's possible the throttle valve will short stroke and pressures run a little low. If I set it based on fully open throttle it will go to full line pressure but pressures may be a bit high at low throttle - not sure if that could possibly hurt anything.
 
Go with fully open throttle(unless dvw says different) is my opinion. I used to play with my linkage all the time but I can't remember what I was trying to accomplish(?). Maybe just going from 383 height to 440. I don't the slight variance in press. will make a difference.
 
That's the way it is set right now and it seems to like it.
 
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