Flat tappet to hydraulic roller

[Boone]

I'm changing my 440 from a hydraulic flat tappet cam to a hydraulic roller c a m from Bullet. I think have seen something about the need to change the intermediate shaft bushing for this conversion. I'm running Edelbrock RPM Performer heads, bored 30 over, KB flat tops in case any of that has a bearing on this. Thanks in advance.

 

[BLK 68 R/T]

Not the bushing, you have to get a new oil pump drive gear. I think bronze is the most popular. There might be other compatible metal alloy ones now other than bronze. The bronze ones do wear faster than oe ones so check it every few thousand miles if you are planning on driving lots. Next, you might be better off going with a street grind solid roller cam due to potential lifter issues with the hyd. roller ones. Unless you are bushing the lifter bores? Some have success with the hyd. rollers and some don’t. Lifter bore wear plays a huge part on how well a hyd roller setup will work.

 

[biomedtechguy]

If your new cam is billet steel, you have to have a compatible distributor gear. Check with the cam manufacturer.

 

[biomedtechguy]

 

[493 Mike]

Not the bushing, you have to get a new oil pump drive gear. I think bronze is the most popular. There might be other compatible metal alloy ones now other than bronze. The bronze ones do wear faster than oe ones so check it every few thousand miles if you are planning on driving lots. Next, you might be better off going with a street grind solid roller cam due to potential lifter issues with the hyd. roller ones. Unless you are bushing the lifter bores? Some have success with the hyd. rollers and some don’t. Lifter bore wear plays a huge part on how well a hyd roller setup will work.

I would like to add that I had lifter bore misalignment take out a flat tappet cam and lifters. Bushing and remachining the bushed bores fixed my woes.
Mike

 

[66Satellite47]

Ask Bullet what they recommend for the distributor drive gear/shaft. The bronze gears were recommended for years because the expense of the steel billet roller cam cores. Not sure which of the modern hydraulic cores require that. However I still use the bronze gear/hardened shaft for my flat tappet solid cams. I also use the brass style bushing in the block, not the aluminum.

 

[BLK 68 R/T]

On top of what has been talked about already. You will also need new pushrods, adjustable rocker arms if you don’t have them already, new valve springs depending on cam specs, thrust button or bearing for the cam to prevent cam “walk” and a few replacement gaskets.

 

[wyrmrider]

hr dosent need adjustable rockers with a hys roller but he had to have them for a solid fla tappett cam
or was orig cm hyd flat?

 

[Boone]

Not the bushing, you have to get a new oil pump drive gear. I think bronze is the most popular. There might be other compatible metal alloy ones now other than bronze. The bronze ones do wear faster than oe ones so check it every few thousand miles if you are planning on driving lots. Next, you might be better off going with a street grind solid roller cam due to potential lifter issues with the hyd. roller ones. Unless you are bushing the lifter bores? Some have success with the hyd. rollers and some don’t. Lifter bore wear plays a huge part on how well a hyd roller setup will work.

Thanks for the quick reply. The block is at the machine shop now and I will get with these guys tomorrow. I had actually planned on solid roller but Bullet tech recommended the hydraulic roller due to head / spring s I have. Much appreciated.

 

[Boone]

If your new cam is billet steel, you have to have a compatible distributor gear. Check with the cam manufacturer.

Thanks for your input and the video is excellent. Will get with Bullet tech tomorrow. Already ruined one cam & lifter set so greatly appreciate your insight.

 

[Boone]

I would like to add that I had lifter bore misalignment take out a flat tappet cam and lifters. Bushing and remachining the bushed bores fixed my woes.
Mike

Thanks Mike. Plan on getting with machinist tomorrow. Much appreciated.

 

[Boone]

Ask Bullet what they recommend for the distributor drive gear/shaft. The bronze gears were recommended for years because the expense of the steel billet roller cam cores. Not sure which of the modern hydraulic cores require that. However I still use the bronze gear/hardened shaft for my flat tappet solid cams. I also use the brass style bushing in the block, not the aluminum.

Thanks for quick reply. Will get with Bullet tech tomorrow. Hop to have my Satellite on the road again soon.

 

[Boone]

hr dosent need adjustable rockers with a hys roller but he had to have them for a solid fla tappett cam
or was orig cm hyd flat?

Thanks for your reply. I have Crane adj. roller rockers. Edelbrock requires they be used with the 60929 heads.

 

[wyrmrider]

edelbrock is full of bs
u need a b3 kit with roller tips
jones grinds for roller cams are better tan anyone elses
no one elsewants to take the time to do it right

 

[Mike67]

Only saw it mentioned once here bit you will need a cam button to prevent cam walk. It's also recommended that a reinforced timing cover or heavier aluminum type be used due to the potential of it to flex which would allow walk as well.
Initially I bought a steel button but had clearance issues with cam bolts, ended up buying Comps (nylon type) which allowed some shaping/ clearancing.

 

[Derwud]

Stay under 600 lift without lifter bushings.
Cam Button.

 

[wyrmrider]

pick one


Compared to a normal "Flat Flanked" cam, my I.R. profiles

make more power, and are more reliable,

or we can make one to make even more power, and be just as reliable,

or we can make one to make a bunch more power, and be less reliable.

For the street, I'd go with option 1, but it's really up to the customer.

 

[Mike67]

@wyrmrider
As long as I've been here and have read many of your comments, never have I known or suspected that you made cams!!!!
Dude I would like to know a little more as I value your opinion a lot when it comes engines...who is the person behind the screen???

 

[biomedtechguy]

As long as I've been here and have read many of your comments, never have I known or suspected that you made cams!!!!
Dude I would like to know a little more as I value your opinion a lot when it comes engines...who is the person behind the screen???

 

[Kern Dog]

As long as I've been here and have read many of your comments, never have I known or suspected that you made cams!!!!
Dude I would like to know a little more as I value your opinion a lot when it comes engines...who is the person behind the screen???

I get it. You make joke.