Front Brake Hose look alright?? Conversion kit questions???

[Don Frelier]

Have a look at these hoses for a 1976 Dodge Diplomat. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...1860/automotive-car-1978-dodge-diplomat?pos=1

The diplomat came out in 1977

 

[Islandkent]

Thanks Greg. I was reading about front mounted and sway bar interference. Wouldn't the different design of the hose be sufficient?? Normal banjo hose? None of that metal tubing. I read just slightly longer hoses for rear mounting.
Like nobody is running that particular conversion?
The Dippy brake hose is 17 1/2 " long these are 15 1/2"

 

[Kern Dog]

I’m a little fuzzy on the specifics.
Jigsaw has 12” front rotors but 2.75” calipers from an 87 Fifth Avenue mounted rearward. The 70 and later cars could have the calipers fore or aft since the sway bar design allowed it. The 69 and earlier sway bar links were too close to the calipers on forward mount setups. This Coronet has no front bar so clearance isn’t an issue here.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

The thing is people get away with a longer hose but that creates the possibility of other problems'... The right way to handle it is to relocate the connection to the steel line in front of the spindle...

 

[Islandkent]

So switch the spindles around. With no fears of sway bar interference??

 

[1 Wild R/T]

So switch the spindles around. With no fears of sway bar interference??

Does your swaybar pass through the K member? If so then yes...

 

[Islandkent]

Ok Thanks. Yes it does pass through the K member. Back to step one. It looked so nice on there. Now I wonder how hard it will be to get that upper ball joint off. That's the only variable in my head.

Wish me luck.

 

[Kern Dog]

So switch the spindles around. With no fears of sway bar interference??

Rear mounted calipers work in all conditions no matter what year or sway bar as long as the bleeder screws point UP and the brake line has clearance. Front mount works on all years without a sway bar.
The wider design of the 1969 and earlier sway bar prevents the forward mount from clearing and fitting.
To rear mount the calipers, yeah…. You have to swap the knuckles side to side.
By the way….
I’ve been accustomed to referring to them as “ knuckles”, not spindles mainly because the spindle is actually the horizontal shaft the hub and brake rides on.

The knuckle is the whole forged piece.

If I’m wrong, I’ll revise my thinking on that.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Ok Thanks. Yes it does pass through the K member. Back to step one. It looked so nice on there. Now I wonder how hard it will be to get that upper ball joint off. That's the only variable in my head.

Wish me luck.

Good Luck, not that you need it, you've got this..

 

[Islandkent]

Thanks 1 Wild R/T and everybody else. I'll post a update when I get them switched around. The thing is not trying to scratch anything right?? Made it the first time. Two more times to go. Not tonight though. lol

 

[1 Wild R/T]

BTDT, You'll probably need to touch up the paint at the top of the spindle/knuckle... The lower ball joint stays where it is so you only have the tow upper ball joint tapers to deal with...

 

[Islandkent]

10-4 Just came in from the shop checking that out. No paint. I heated them up and applied that RPM to them. Still. Just gently smash the side of the taper.
I am going to try and leave the rotor on through during all of this though.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

10-4 Just came in from the shop checking that out. No paint. I heated them up and applied that RPM to them. Still. Just gently smash the side of the taper.
I am going to try and leave the rotor on through during all of this though.

Can't leave the rotor on, gotta access the ball joint bolts..

 

[Islandkent]

Dam! There you go. lol

 

[BeepBeepRR]

The diplomat came out in 1977

Ok ... I just threw a date at it...

 

[Islandkent]

Well that was easier than I thought it was going to be. Still took me about 3 hours (both sides) start to finish. Those lines do look better that way alright, but they are pretty tight to the upper ball joints. I guess that is what that metal tubing is for?? I just tweaked a little to give them about 1/8 " clearance.

Live and learn

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Yeah, that's an improvement..

 

[1 Wild R/T]

but they are pretty tight to the upper ball joints. I guess that is what that metal tubing is for?? I just tweaked a little to give them about 1/8 " clearance.

Live and learn

But the relationship between the ball joint & the caliper is a constant, the only movement between those two parts is as the brake pads wear...

 

[Islandkent]

Your dead on. I swung the spindle back and forth and it not going to get any closer except for like you say when the pads begin to wear. And since It's below the end of the ball joint should never make contact. Yes. Aftermarket ball joints with the taper bolt longer than is really necessary. You can see the spacer they provided. If it wasn't for that there would have been lots of clearance.
All and all, I did like the look of it better mounted behind the spindle but I can see how this is the way to go.
Thanks 1 Wild R/T

 

[Kern Dog]

I had a passing thought that putting the front calipers to the rear and the rear calipers to the front looked cleaner and maybe shifted weight to the center of the car but I'm not a good enough driver to feel what may account for .03% weight shift....

By the way, Kent...Your car looks amazing, so clean and well detailed. The rare FK5 color looks great as shiny as yours is. It almost inspires me to repaint Jigsaw in the original color:

Please do keep posting updates and pictures of the car. It will look great when you're able to get some shots of it out in public.