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Front suspension poll?

What front suspension do you prefer for drag racing?


  • Total voters
    39
Interesting. I made my own uppers with spherical rod ends. They still require removal for adjustments if the cam bolts alone can’t get it done. I’ll be building a new set for more front suspension travel.
Yeah, I think the SPC UCAs will always have enough adjustment leeway as installed, by just backing off the lock nuts and twisting the fat section marked "SPC"
 
Interesting. I made my own uppers with spherical rod ends. They still require removal for adjustments if the cam bolts alone can’t get it done. I’ll be building a new set for more front suspension travel.
I’d like to see the ones you made. As mentioned before I did not like the look of the SPC because of the small adjusting bolts so I sent them back. I looked at the Hotchkis and they also have small adjusters on them. They may be good for racing and staying on nice blacktop roads but here in Kentucky we have potholes that would swallow a car. I hit a pothole one time so hard in my Charger that it broke/ripped the metal that holds the camber adjusting washers about half way out, the one on the outside inner fender by the shocks. It Immediately started pulling hard to the left. I could just imagine hitting one that hard and it easily braking one of those adjusting bolts. The non adjusting Qa1 are ALOT stronger built because they don’t have those weak points and they have 3* of caster built in them.
 
I’d like to see the ones you made. As mentioned before I did not like the look of the SPC because of the small adjusting bolts so I sent them back. I looked at the Hotchkis and they also have small adjusters on them. They may be good for racing and staying on nice blacktop roads but here in Kentucky we have potholes that would swallow a car. I hit a pothole one time so hard in my Charger that it broke/ripped the metal that holds the camber adjusting washers about half way out, the one on the outside inner fender by the shocks. It Immediately started pulling hard to the left. I could just imagine hitting one that hard and it easily braking one of those adjusting bolts. The non adjusting Qa1 are ALOT stronger built because they don’t have those weak points and they have 3* of caster built in them.
In the fixture prior to tapping the tubes for rod ends.

A8CEF018-F4E1-45D0-A721-CE888C7B0F7E.jpeg
 
The non adjusting Qa1 are ALOT stronger built because they don’t have those weak points and they have 3* of caster built in them.
I agree that the SPC UCAs don't look like the most rugged, but one issue that I was made aware of by my front suspension alignment mechanic, and if IRC actually 2 different guys, is the lack of adjustment so that's what I focused on.
I know BAC (Bergman) uses a near identical SPC UCA, and @Budnicks has used them, and I got all QA1 but I was determined not to let the apparent lack of adjustment scale to have me hearing that again, after all the money in parts and labor that I invested in my suspension.
I may look at the process (I know there is one, I've seen posts on it) to flip the front sway bar UP in a higher position, but then again I am going to be either disconnecting it or removing it for quarter mile duty, but I want it for driving around. It is positioned pretty low in the stock QA1 setup.
Although I need a pair of rear tires and wheels for the guy to do my alignment, I asked and received approval from him on the parts I had installed.
 
I agree that the SPC UCAs don't look like the most rugged, but one issue that I was made aware of by my front suspension alignment mechanic, and if IRC actually 2 different guys, is the lack of adjustment so that's what I focused on.
I know BAC (Bergman) uses a near identical SPC UCA, and @Budnicks has used them, and I got all QA1 but I was determined not to let the apparent lack of adjustment scale to have me hearing that again, after all the money in parts and labor that I invested in my suspension.
I may look at the process (I know there is one, I've seen posts on it) to flip the front sway bar UP in a higher position, but then again I am going to be either disconnecting it or removing it for quarter mile duty, but I want it for driving around. It is positioned pretty low in the stock QA1 setup.
Although I need a pair of rear tires and wheels for the guy to do my alignment, I asked and received approval from him on the parts I had installed.
Do you have that car mini-tubbed?
 
Do you have that car mini-tubbed?
Not yet, but I have my intention to use the "recently" released AMD wheel well panels, IF that gets me what I need.
It seems so far off...
The 572 completed and under the hood comes first, and I've been working with my builder on that for over 3 years as I have to do it according to money I can free up. The COVID crap threw a wrench into the time-line too. I'm happy to say he has the BMP aluminum block, which was my first purchase, and Molnar crank and rods, Diamond pistons, and the TF 270s are paid for and should be in soon. I have the B3E "special" T&D roller rockers and shafts, and valvetrain geometry correction kit. The EDM solid roller lifters and cam status I'm not sure of.
Anyway, enough of all that.
I am going to do what I can to get traction on drag radials if possible, and I absolutely love the look of extremely wide tires on a B-Body.
Like these:
Screenshot_2014-09-14-13-48-40.png
Screenshot_2015-12-22-12-42-11.png
Screenshot_2014-09-14-13-52-10.png
 
Not yet, but I have my intention to use the "recently" released AMD wheel well panels, IF that gets me what I need.
It seems so far off...
The 572 completed and under the hood comes first, and I've been working with my builder on that for over 3 years as I have to do it according to money I can free up. The COVID crap threw a wrench into the time-line too. I'm happy to say he has the BMP aluminum block, which was my first purchase, and Molnar crank and rods, Diamond pistons, and the TF 270s are paid for and should be in soon. I have the B3E "special" T&D roller rockers and shafts, and valvetrain geometry correction kit. The EDM solid roller lifters and cam status I'm not sure of.
Anyway, enough of all that.
I am going to do what I can to get traction on drag radials if possible, and I absolutely love the look of extremely wide tires on a B-Body.
Like these:View attachment 1464503View attachment 1464504View attachment 1464505
Those are huge! I’m running 285 and my car just blows the tires plum off of it. I didnt dyno it. FASTMAN said he guessed it between 580 and 620 hp with my first tune. It’s a 440 I built back when the TF 240 first came out. I actually bought one of the first sets came out. When I’m done with this motor I would like to build around a 500+ stroker with an aftermarket block and still run my T-56 Magnum and do the AMD wheel wells with 330,s out the back.
 
Allow me, who has tremendous respect for you, your work, your cars, your help on the forum, and so on...
Allow me to cut to the chase: my comments in italics
All black, street legal, 1970 Plymouth Superbird
(So that's what it will look like)
All aluminum hemi - cubic inches yet to be determined
Two Precision turbo chargers and EFI

(So that's what it will run like)
Any other questions, click the link he provided and be in awe!
 
Those are huge! I’m running 285 and my car just blows the tires plum off of it. I didnt dyno it. FASTMAN said he guessed it between 580 and 620 hp with my first tune. It’s a 440 I built back when the TF 240 first came out. I actually bought one of the first sets came out. When I’m done with this motor I would like to build around a 500+ stroker with an aftermarket block and still run my T-56 Magnum and do the AMD wheel wells with 330,s out the back.
Yes, the rear tires in those pix are very W-I-D-E and MAN! do I like that look, ESPECIALLY on the "Coke bottle" shaped B-Body cars. I have posted (as kindly as I can) that wide tires (no need to be that wide) are mandatory for the 71 and newer Roadrunner/Satellite cars, and although the bumpers on the 71 and newer early 70s Dodge Chargers aren't as obnoxiously huge as the Roadrunners of the same era, they "need" wider than stock tires too, to offset the ENORMOUSLY wide "hips" on those cars.
The 68-70 Roadrunner, 66-70 Coronet, R/T and Bee, wide tires compliment the wide rear quarters and back decks.
Look, I am beside myself with joy that I am able to have 315/35/17 Toyo Proxes TQ drag radials on the widest Rallye wheels available (9" Year One) and that's with ZERO body or suspension mods. NO RUBBING and with the 5" backspace that the 9s come with, the tires are perfectly centered in the rear wheel opening.
I think they look AMAZING,
Screenshot_20230513_174504_Photos.jpg
Screenshot_20230513_174515_Photos.jpg

BUT
IF there's NO chance even the WIDEST DOT legal tires will be able to offer any kind of traction once my 6XXHP/700TQ 572 goes in, and it may turn out that even having steamroller wide DOT legal tires is a fruitless venture for traction. IF it becomes obvious that ONLY a drag slick can offer any significant traction with the 572, then I may have the rear wheel opening and whatever else made to accommodate the slicks, but then again, I think it would be difficult to resist putting really wide tires on my car.
I guess there's too many variables to say.
 
Last edited:
that's 2 of the reasons or why/what I didn't like
about some of the others UCAs,
that were not dbl adjustable (esp. on the car)
& many you can't get the caster angle, or freedom of movement
in the ball joints, that many drag cars could require
especially if you're going 150+ & not trying to just do huge wheelies
like the NSS guys
The geometry needs to be corrected with the steering linkage pivots. Upper arms can only adjust camber and caster. You are correct that all early Mopars have a limited caster range. However adding caster lowers the outer tie rod. Sometimes that helps, sometimes it makes things worse. Outer tie rod location is critical to bump steer. The QA1 rack and pinion stuff has a horible outer tie rod location. Trust me the stock stuff is very good. Even strong enough for "big wheelies". 2.5 degrees of caster is plenty stable at 150. My experience? 35+ years of racing. Probably 5000 alignments thru my carrer. Along with body shop wreck repair
Doug
 
Trust me the stock stuff is very good. Even strong enough for "big wheelies"
That is another potential issue with the upcoming 572. I have a system that may help prevent lifting the front wheels off the ground, the HitMaster launch control that slips the clutch according to how it's adjusted for amount of engagement over an adjustable time, but that's meant to consistently transfer the greatest amount of power without spinning the tires excessively and not smoking the clutch.
Hopefully I won't get too much air or touch down too hard and break stuff.
 
The geometry needs to be corrected with the steering linkage pivots. Upper arms can only adjust camber and caster. You are correct that all early Mopars have a limited caster range. However adding caster lowers the outer tie rod. Sometimes that helps, sometimes it makes things worse. Outer tie rod location is critical to bump steer. The QA1 rack and pinion stuff has a horible outer tie rod location. Trust me the stock stuff is very good. Even strong enough for "big wheelies". 2.5 degrees of caster is plenty stable at 150. My experience? 35+ years of racing. Probably 5000 alignments thru my carrer. Along with body shop wreck repair
Doug
Qa1 Ford Pinto suspension=Gerst
 
Yes, the rear tires in those pix are very W-I-D-E and MAN! do I like that look, ESPECIALLY on the "Coke bottle" shaped B-Body cars. I have posted (as kindly as I can) that wide tires (no need to be that wide) are mandatory for the 71 and newer Roadrunner/Satellite cars, and although the bumpers on the 71 and newer early 70s Dodge Chargers aren't as obnoxiously huge as the Roadrunners of the same era, they "need" wider than stock tires too, to offset the ENORMOUSLY wide "hips" on those cars.
The 68-70 Roadrunner, 66-70 Coronet, R/T and Bee, wide tires compliment the wide rear quarters and back decks.
Look, I am beside myself with joy that I am able to have 315/35/17 Toyo Proxes TQ drag radials on the widest Rallye wheels available (9" Year One) and that's with ZERO body or suspension mods. NO RUBBING and with the 5" backspace that the 9s come with, the tires are perfectly centered in the rear wheel opening.
I think they look AMAZING,
View attachment 1464632View attachment 1464633
BUT
IF there's NO chance even the WIDEST DOT legal tires will be able to offer any kind of traction once my 6XXHP/700TQ 572 goes in, and it may turn out that even having steamroller wide DOT legal tires is a fruitless venture for traction. IF it becomes obvious that ONLY a drag slick can offer any significant traction with the 572, then I may have the rear wheel opening and whatever else made to accommodate the slicks, but then again, I think it would be difficult to resist putting really wide tires on my car.
I guess there's too many variables to say.
Nitto has my tires 285/40r17 listed as 11.42 inches wide and their 315/35 listed as 12.60. I’m also running a 9” rim with 5” backspacing and I have room for a bigger tire. I’m going to take a measurement today to see if they are actually that wide.
 
Only a part-time racer here....I'll stick with stock on my A100.

Softened front end....removed 2 x leaves off each of the 4 springs, nice snubber in the read and sticky tyres & now power assisted disc brakes.
Suits my level of fun....with the added luxury of A/C. :p

Front end.JPG
 
Since your playing with one, what are your thoughts about it? Things that I didn't care for include the Ackerman angle being severely off which means at or near full lock the front tires bind to the point the car will stop & you need to apply more throttle to complete a turn into a parking spot, if you turn far enough you'll feel the inboard tire step over which relieves the bind & the car will go a short distance with no binding then the process repeats...

Also the steering doesn't self center, it stays at full lock....

I've experienced this on two vehicles that both had RMS Alterkation front suspensions.. The first one I just figured it wasn't setup properly... The second one doing the exact same things makes me think otherwise...
Diving back into the Ackerman part of this, it would appear that Ackerman angle is not even a possibility in a front steer setup given the wheel and tire combos most of us run. And, to make matters worse, you get the opposite effect with front steer. Dare I call it Anti-Ackerman? Lol. I haven’t noticed the lack of Ackerman or Anti-Ackerman as much of an issue in my case since I’m a drag racer, but for those of you who are corner carvers, I think it’s a HUGE consideration.
 
Allow me, who has tremendous respect for you, your work, your cars, your help on the forum, and so on...
Allow me to cut to the chase: my comments in italics
All black, street legal, 1970 Plymouth Superbird
(So that's what it will look like)
All aluminum hemi - cubic inches yet to be determined
Two Precision turbo chargers and EFI

(So that's what it will run like)
Any other questions, click the link he provided and be in awe!
There have been a few changes, lol. After owning a couple black cars, I decided against it for upkeep reasons. Besides, the blackout look is somewhat played out. It’ll be Petty Blue now. I picked up twin 88mm Forced Induction turbos which should be a substantial step up from the twin 76s I’m running now. The hemi is done and running in my green car at 540 cubic inches with the Precisions. . It’ll get a new cam when I move it over into the Superbird.
 
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