Front Suspension what to use?

[64plymouth]

My bet is that the SS springs are the problem. My car was terribly inconsistent with them. I swapped to Cal-tracs and the car is super consistent with them! I have the Calvert 9 way shocks set on 9.

It was a very visible change as the car now leaves level and flat instead of hiking the left front like a dog lifts its leg to piss.

I put SS springs on car when I built it they worked fine but after 10-12 years started sagging. So I bought Calvert setup. Car was no better with it just cost a lot more. So I sold calvert set up and bought new SS springs and ordered Viking shocks. I plan to check front and replace what is needed. I did front suspension 20 years ago. I hope to get out by end of month/early June. Thanks

 

[383man]

I put SS springs on car when I built it they worked fine but after 10-12 years started sagging. So I bought Calvert setup. Car was no better with it just cost a lot more. So I sold calvert set up and bought new SS springs and ordered Viking shocks. I plan to check front and replace what is needed. I did front suspension 20 years ago. I hope to get out by end of month/early June. Thanks

I have had great luck with my SS springs. I put them on my car about 10 years ago. Its still sits the same and still hooks good and consistent at the track. And I only use the longer rear shocks as I don't have ajustable shocks on the rear of my car. I am very pleased with my SS springs. Course I bought them about 10 years ago and I don't know how good the quality is of them now. Ron

 

[64plymouth]

I have had great luck with my SS springs. I put them on my car about 10 years ago. Its still sits the same and still hooks good and consistent at the track. And I only use the longer rear shocks as I don't have ajustable shocks on the rear of my car. I am very pleased with my SS springs. Course I bought them about 10 years ago and I don't know how good the quality is of them now. Ron

I have heard that about the quality of SS springs. My original set I bought in 1999 and worked good. But I got caught up the new cool part idea so I bought Calvert set up. They worked good no complaints but I knew someone who wanted that set up so I sold it. So back to SS springs. I'm like you don't get to the track much.

 

[Budnicks]

Bump
for they guys in another thread asking about weight of parts
see post #5

 

[biomedtechguy]

Check out QA1, pretty much a bolt in deal
(you can still retain the Torsion bars too, if need/want to be)

tubular LCA's
appr. 19#'s for a pair, with bushings & pin installed
View attachment 759878

dynamic adj. alum. strut rods,
appr. 5#'s for a pair, heim joint connection front
View attachment 759880

(or optional add the tubular k-member, is appr. 36#'s, if you want to go that far)
View attachment 759879

for UCA's I like the SPC dbl adj.
(over the non-adj. QA1's, they do make adj. ones too, I still prefer the SPC's)
appr. 14#'s a pair, with ball-joints & poly bushings & hardware installed
you can do adj.'s, while on the car too
View attachment 759881

appr. 38#'s for the tubular stuff, UCA's, LCA's, Strut rods

& for all the above is appr. 74#'s, including the tubular K-member
with all QA1 parts, that way you could compare weights to the org. parts


very reasonably priced, for racecar/street car MoPar parts
lighter weight, than stock
easy to install & more adjustable

especially if it doesn't see many street miles
a freed up & lighter front suspension, will help the car 60' better
that's really where you can improve the cars performance
every pound you take of the front
is like adding it to the rear in weight transfer

now whether it's worth it,
I think it is, if you want to get the best out of your car
unless you have really good fab skills, to make your own
it's a great opt.

for all the above 'retail' is about $1,600+
for just the UCA's, LCA's & Dyn. Adj. Strut rods, it's about $500+ less
so for about $1100
add your shocks (or get new)
add your Org. spindles & brakes (or get new),
a couple new lower ball-joints, new wheel bearings etc.
& you're good to go

These components are EXACTLY what I installed in my 70 Roadrunner. I moved the 2 way adjustable Viking Warrior shocks to the new suspension.
I just changed the rear suspension to Calvert split mono leaf springs and sliders and 3 way adjustable Viking Warrior XS shocks.
Track trips coming soon.

 

[Budnicks]

These components are EXACTLY what I installed in my 70 Roadrunner. I moved the 2 way adjustable Viking Warrior shocks to the new suspension.
I just changed the rear suspension to Calvert split mono leaf springs and sliders and 3 way adjustable Viking Warrior XS shocks.
Track trips coming soon.
View attachment 1100111 View attachment 1100112

Steve/Biomed

 

[6PKRTSE]

These components are EXACTLY what I installed in my 70 Roadrunner. I moved the 2 way adjustable Viking Warrior shocks to the new suspension.
I just changed the rear suspension to Calvert split mono leaf springs and sliders and 3 way adjustable Viking Warrior XS shocks.
Track trips coming soon.
View attachment 1100111 View attachment 1100112

I run the exact same on the rear if my Challenger. I run a tubular K Frame and a rack up front for the flat bottom top fuel/funny car oil pan for plenty of ground clearance on the street and room for big tube headers.

 

[biomedtechguy]

I think eventually I'm going to want to do the "front sway bar flip" on the QA1 K-member and suspension.
It looks "funny" hanging that low.
Any readily available links to "how to" flip the front sway bar are welcome!

 

[Gsmopar]

I went with GERST. Definitely the “Easy Button.” Milidon pan with integrated pick up left plenty of ground clearance.

 

[6PKRTSE]

My flat bottom oil pan hangs as low as my trans pan. Headers are the lowest points.